3D Printing What Are You Printing Today?

[BigMacDaddy]

Printed a new launchpad setup that will let me use the Estes launchpad frame / legs w/ a 10mm Makerbeam rail. I tried to make this adjustable so that the rail could be angled along one dimension (e.g., aim into or away from wind or to adjust for uneven ground). I'm also planning to mount a spike on bottom of makerbeam so it can stick into ground for added stability. Will need to test this although it seems pretty stable on my carpet. If it is not stable enough I might even use some tent pegs to mount the legs to the ground.

 

[BigMacDaddy]

Decided to live dangerously and waive the recommended supports... lets see what happens...

EDIT: No luck... but did learn that this is too small, upscaling by 50% and breaking into parts.

 

[almonster]

I drew this up in F360 so I could replace the one I had as a kid. Estes 1336/Centuri 5330. I'll print one for fit for the hinges and wings/fins but it won't be able to fly.

Once I get my motor mounts, I'll dimension it and shell the model and fit everything in.

 

[cwbullet]

I am printing a tool to wrap igniter leads to get them in a 10-inch bundle for the Wilson FX launch system. Need to keep the boxes tidy.

 

[maddmaxx11]

I printed these in the last few days. Anyone fly one like it?

 

[BigMacDaddy]

I drew this up in F360 so I could replace the one I had as a kid. Estes 1336/Centuri 5330. I'll print one for fit for the hinges and wings/fins but it won't be able to fly.

Once I get my motor mounts, I'll dimension it and shell the model and fit everything in.


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That is beautiful!

 

[BigMacDaddy]

My mini-engine cluster mount for BT55 tube came out pretty well... It was tight to fit twist-lock retention setup since the engines are so close to filling a BT55 tube. Anyway, seems like it will work but need to mount in a small section of tube with a transition tube that will fit onto sustainer engine retainer.


Also decided to reprint a set of quick disconnects so I could rebuild the Leaner Meaner Machine w/ BT50 tubes... I try to design things to require less supports but this is also a tight fit in the tube.

Looking forward to trying to launch a 4 tube 7' long version with the mini-engine cluster as the booster!

 

[maddmaxx11]

My mini-engine cluster mount for BT55 tube came out pretty well... It was tight to fit twist-lock retention setup since the engines are so close to filling a BT55 tube. Anyway, seems like it will work but need to mount in a small section of tube with a transition tube that will fit onto sustainer engine retainer.

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Also decided to reprint a set of quick disconnects so I could rebuild the Leaner Meaner Machine w/ BT50 tubes... I try to design things to require less supports but this is also a tight fit in the tube.

Looking forward to trying to launch a 4 tube 7' long version with the mini-engine cluster as the booster!

View attachment 488647

Nice! What did you print it out of? Will PETG work and not have the motors stick or do you have to use ABS?

 

[BigMacDaddy]

Nice! What did you print it out of? Will PETG work and not have the motors stick or do you have to use ABS?

Thanks. I use ABS but have never tried PETG.

It is a bit of a tension between too big (motor moving around some) or too small (lots of sanding to get motors to fit and risk of them getting stuck after launch or if they swell up due to humidity). I had to do a bit of sanding to get these motors into the mounts so I may have made them a bit too tight. I also may not have my 3D printing settings perfectly dialed in since there seems to be some shrinkage between the dimensions I design and final print outcome (talking about fractions of millimeters but that makes a different in fit for something like this).

 

[Scrapmaster87]

Printed my 1st version of my filament winder v3's mandrel drive pulley. Those are 15 tooth and 65 tooth HTD belt sprockets. It'll go on the 5/8" motor shaft. Those 6 holes are 1/4" NPS, which ought to make a nice power grip with 1/4" NPT pipe plugs threaded in.

The driven pulley will be quite complicated as well!

 

[cwbullet]

I printed a purple and orange 38mm delta saucer.

 

[Doug Holverson]

Just Benchy over and over in different materials since I'm dialing in a Micro Swiss direct drive upgrade. How do you fix a little waviness after the anchor holes and at a rear corner of the cabin?

 

[cwbullet]

Today is a TPU day. I need to print a grommet to cover / fill a hole for an ethernet cable I am running to my workshop.

 

[Kelly]

Those 6 holes are 1/4" NPS, which ought to make a nice power grip with 1/4" NPT pipe plugs threaded in.

Looks like nice work. What's the purpose of the slits around the threaded holes?

 

[Scrapmaster87]

Looks like nice work. What's the purpose of the slits around the threaded holes?

That's to allow movement so the pulley and be "shrunk" down onto the shaft. It's quite possible I dont need the slits. Shaft keys are a actually quite limited in the torque they can transmit. Taperlock and other high compression compression bushing technologies are the industry norm for transmitting torque (where installing they keys is optional).

Taper lock:
QD:
Shrink disk:

There are a wide variety of technologies similar to shrink disks as they're a newer tech. This is probably most similar to what I'd attempting, just through 3d printing I cam make everything one-piece.

The driven pulley will have the 2 pulley diameter, the shrink shaft holding feature, and mounts serve as a disk coupling flange... Instead of using chucks for holding may mandrels on my layup lathe, I use 3D printed disk coupling flanges. This way my lathe is a great big double-disk coupling, no backlash and I can tolerate angular misalignment.

Disk couplings:

 

[Scrapmaster87]

Test install in a shaft went mostly well.

 

[BigMacDaddy]

I just swapped my .4mm nozzle out for a .25mm to print some walkways for N-scale trains. Fine detail is needed (I have a .15mm nozzle but have never used it).

I have thought about using the .25mm nozzle to print 3-layer .75mm thick side walls for lighter weight rockets. I usually print 3-layer 1.2mm thick walls for nose cones and other body elements (or 4-layer 1.6mm if I want something a bit stronger). I am not patient enough to wait for that .25mm nozzle to print something as big as a nose cone.

 

[Josh Anderson]

My first attempt at a 3D Printed AV bay. Definitely left some holes out, but a great first shot and learning experience!

 

[OverTheTop]

My first attempt at a 3D Printed AV bay. Definitely left some holes out, but a great first shot and learning experience!

I notice you didn't print the standoffs for the electronics. Any reason for that?

 

[Josh Anderson]

I notice you didn't print the standoffs for the electronics. Any reason for that?

My collegiate club has all those nylon spacers to use, so I just planned to use them. There are also slight standoffs printed into the sled below, but I felt it would be simplest for my first attempt to add the final spacers on after printing

 

[OverTheTop]

My collegiate club has all those nylon spacers to use, so I just planned to use them. There are also slight standoffs printed into the sled below, but I felt it would be simplest for my first attempt to add the final spacers on after printing

Perhaps consider printing them on next time. One less thing to keep track of in the workshop or on the field. YMMV.

 

[rharshberger]

Started printing the interstage coupler for my Nike2K-Aerobee 500 fantasy scale (didn't really exist, but.... ), should take approximately 49 hours of print time. Material is PETG and at 12 hours the print is looking good as the hardest parts should be done, I have had trouble in the past with bridging across the printing supports. The design is complex-ish due to the way I have decided to have the ISC work, the ISC should bear very little of the load, the hole in the bottom of the ISC are for various items to slot into, the hole with 3 holes surrounding it are for T-nuts that use #2 screws to mount them, the other three holes on that same radius are for backing plates both top and bottom, and the central hole is for a wiring pass through if I need one for some reason. When I actually start this build there will be a build thread.


Solidworks 2014 views of finished product, as well as a OpenRocket view of complete design.

At fours hours of print time

And at 12 hours print time.

 

[Arpak]

Started printing the interstage coupler for my Nike2K-Aerobee 500 fantasy scale (didn't really exist, but.... ), should take approximately 49 hours of print time. Material is PETG and at 12 hours the print is looking good as the hardest parts should be done, I have had trouble in the past with bridging across the printing supports. The design is complex-ish due to the way I have decided to have the ISC work, the ISC should bear very little of the load, the hole in the bottom of the ISC are for various items to slot into, the hole with 3 holes surrounding it are for T-nuts that use #2 screws to mount them, the other three holes on that same radius are for backing plates both top and bottom, and the central hole is for a wiring pass through if I need one for some reason. When I actually start this build there will be a build thread.


Solidworks 2014 views of finished product, as well as a OpenRocket view of complete design.
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At fours hours of print time
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And at 12 hours print time.
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49?? Wow, what layer height?

 

[rharshberger]

49?? Wow, what layer height?

.12 iirc, its also 100% infill and about 6" tall, and the bottom floor of it is about .3" thick. I could have made it thinner but the t-nut needs to be flush on both sides.

 

[Arpak]

Ah, the 100% infill will do it

 

[BigMacDaddy]

BT-80 Fritz-X on the way (more detail on this big guy)... Hope I can get CG moved forward enough with a reasonable amount of nose weight and use an E12-4 to launch this.

 

[cwbullet]

Printed a new launchpad setup that will let me use the Estes launchpad frame / legs w/ a 10mm Makerbeam rail. I tried to make this adjustable so that the rail could be angled along one dimension (e.g., aim into or away from wind or to adjust for uneven ground). I'm also planning to mount a spike on bottom of makerbeam so it can stick into ground for added stability. Will need to test this although it seems pretty stable on my carpet. If it is not stable enough I might even use some tent pegs to mount the legs to the ground.

View attachment 487151

More photos, please. Did you ever assemble it?

 

[BigMacDaddy]

More photos, please. Did you ever assemble it?

Yep, I have launched with it a couple of times... first time I mounted a large (like 10" long) plastic tent peg to the bottom (basically drilled a hole in the top of the peg that was big enough to jam the makerbeam into) and stuck it down in the dirt -- launch pad legs were probably incidental at that point (partly since the peg had a lip that would not let me set it all the way down into the ground). Honestly you could probably just use a peg like that if you have soft fields that you are launching from. Yesterday I setup without the tent peg and simply used the Estes standard launch platform legs. It worked very well this way also and seemed stable.

I posted a pic in the ground support thread with the tent peg attached...


You can see the result here (although the 3D printed part is hidden) when I launched the Ultraman VTOL from it yesterday without the tent peg (realized looking at this picture I probably need a bigger blast shield).

 

[FlyBy01]

I needed a way to hold some receivers for my GSE on some sort of mast, which will be mounted somewhat up in the air on the car roofrack. Sketched up a mount that plugs into some PVC plumbing pipe (56mm diameter). Added some hook-and-loop fastener and mounted up the TeleBT and the Featherweight groundstation.
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View attachment 475360

can you please send me the file?

 

[rharshberger]

More 3d printed Centering Ring router templates. Got a Loc 5.38 x 98mm mmt printing now, and adapters for it up to 7.51 Loc airframe (still 98mm mmt) and mmt adapters from 75mm to 38mm, all working off the 5.38 template, just need to print them all.