bobbyg23
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Nah, I've painted below freezing before with great results.Dang. We need a heated “painting shed”.
Nah, I've painted below freezing before with great results.Dang. We need a heated “painting shed”.
Idea for cheap painting shed: Buy an old minivan with a shot transmission but working engine and heater for $200. Tow it into driveway. Take out the back seats. Whenever you want to paint rocket, go into minivan and turn on engine and heater. Don’t worry about paint spray getting all over inside of mini-van. That is what it is for. Heck, if you have an extension cord and space heater, you can dispense with the working engine and heater.Dang. We need a heated “painting shed”.
Someone somewhere said it is the temperature of the rocket and the temperature of the paint can that matters. Make sure rocket and paint are warmed up. Go outside into thecold. Paint the rocket. Go back inside. I need to try that method. From November through February, it won’t hit 70 degrees in Boulder, Colorado.Nah, I've painted below freezing before with great results.
Thats true to a degree (har har). But at some point the ambient temperature and humidity does matter. If it’s super dry the solvent can evaporate so quickly the paint is basically dry by the time it hits the surface. Cold air is very dry air (just physics) so the colder it is the more likely that may happen. But if you have kept the paint warm that can mitigate it somewhat. I’ve painted in the 40’s but colder than that would be a real challenge it would seem. I’ll have to try below freezing and see how it works.Someone somewhere said it is the temperature of the rocket and the temperature of the paint can that matters. Make sure rocket and paint are warmed up. Go outside into thecold. Paint the rocket. Go back inside. I need to try that method. From November through February, it won’t hit 70 degrees in Boulder, Colorado.
ExactlySomeone somewhere said it is the temperature of the rocket and the temperature of the paint can that matters. Make sure rocket and paint are warmed up. Go outside into thecold. Paint the rocket. Go back inside. I need to try that method. From November through February, it won’t hit 70 degrees in Boulder, Colorado.
I wet sand with 600 or 800 and put another coat on. Usually looks fine.Maybe not a do over, you could try a light wet sand with 800 or 1000+ grit to knock the knobs off and see how it looks. Bad results worst case you can hit it with another light coat of bumpy paint...
. . . I cannot tell from the picture if this is acrylic or enamel…it makes a difference. . .
Yes and maybe that is why paint today is many times crap…..acrylic used to be strictly resins and enamel was an oil based product…now mix everything together and you have the jack of all trades and master of none. You really have to be careful of how you layer your paints now from primers to topcoats. That is why I think so many people have problems with painting now days….besides humidity and other factors. It was so much easier years ago when paint was more stable and simpler made…besides the lead.Paint can be both acrylic and enamel. Almost all rattlecan enamel paint is acrylic enamel.
I think I saw one of those parked in a Wallyworld parking lot…. Don’t really know if they were painting rockets or sniffing.Idea for cheap painting shed: Buy an old minivan with a shot transmission but working engine and heater for $200. Tow it into driveway. Take out the back seats. Whenever you want to paint rocket, go into minivan and turn on engine and heater. Don’t worry about paint spray getting all over inside of mini-van. That is what it is for. Heck, if you have an extension cord and space heater, you can dispense with the working engine and heater.
Totally agree. I've had this happen to me with cold temperatures and low humidity. the paint dries before it hits my rocket and it comes out looking like yours. Now I stick to the recommendations for temperature and humidity on the back of the spray can and no problems since. Also learned my lesson about spraying outdoors because I get a lot of pollen and dust stuck in the paint job.Thats true to a degree (har har). But at some point the ambient temperature and humidity does matter. If it’s super dry the solvent can evaporate so quickly the paint is basically dry by the time it hits the surface. Cold air is very dry air (just physics) so the colder it is the more likely that may happen. But if you have kept the paint warm that can mitigate it somewhat. I’ve painted in the 40’s but colder than that would be a real challenge it would seem. I’ll have to try below freezing and see how it works.
Tony
There is a “maker space” in Boulder, Colorado. There is a maker space in Denver, Colorado. Each has lots of cool rooms and tools. What neither has is a “spray painting” room. I need to suggest that.I've had similar issues when the temp is below 70. I ran into this in the past few weeks trying to rush to get paint on some LPR builds I am working on. All 3 colors of paint did this to me. I paint in the open, so there is always a slight breeze, but I would say it was rather calm this night.
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Great idea!Idea for cheap painting shed: Buy an old minivan with a shot transmission but working engine and heater for $200. Tow it into driveway. Take out the back seats. Whenever you want to paint rocket, go into minivan and turn on engine and heater. Don’t worry about paint spray getting all over inside of mini-van. That is what it is for. Heck, if you have an extension cord and space heater, you can dispense with the working engine and heater.
I had this very thing happen to me with my first build recently. It was my first attempt at priming I had the same Gritty Sandy look and feel. I wasn't very happy it felt like a punch in the gut making me wonder maybe this is all just too tough for me to try and tackle with my grandson. I reached out on the forum and they speculated as to why it might be happening. Needless to say I sanded the grit away and mostly anything resembling the color white off the rocket. Went to a couple different retailers grabbing different types of primer and tried again. I then had success. I know I'd had the original paint for a few months when I first decided on the project over the course of a week or two grabbed all the stuff I thought I might need to complete the project. So I know the paint sat for awhile before I used it. But I shook the can and only painted within the recommended temperature and humidity as to not hinder me any more than already being at a super disadvantage. I didn't try the warm water method which was advised by the group. Maybe it would've worked out had I gone down that road. I do know that when I went out and shook the new can I had purchased and decided to try out it sounded totally different than the 1st can I tried. The balls seemed to be moving more freely throughout the can and it did seem the noise appeared louder too. I'm sure this will happen again. But now I know to try shaking the can in the store to hopefully hear the noise of them moving really freely. Hopefully this will help. Also I learned to bring a scrap of cardboard out to do a test on to see how it applies before I ruin another rocket that I've been working diligently on. Hopefully you can see the fuzzy little bits in my photo once zoomed in on. I know it's not the best of photos.See pictures. The spray paint is going on with a "sandy" sort of texture instead of nice and smooth. I put the can of spray paint in hot water for about 5 minutes before I started painting.
I am using Rust-Oleum American Accents 2X "gloss" "key lime".
Wind speed is 10 MPH with gusts to 18 MPH.
Painting outside. Trying to spray between gusts of wind.
Humidity is low (21 percent).
Temperature is about 65 degrees fahrenheit.
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This happened to me this weekend with a can of Rusto. I did a couple of quick sprays in the air and it looked good so I started painting. Paint went on good for a couple of seconds then I got a stripe of the sandy looking paint, then the rest went on well. I'm going to sand the rough part down and spray over it. I don't know how long the Rusto has to cure before it can be easily sanded.
I did some sanding yesterday and got it reasonably smooth then sprayed over it. This was an old rocket I was repainting so I didn't require it to be perfect. I can't remember if I sprayed it Saturday or Sunday so that would be sanding 2 days after paint or 3 days after paint. The paint came off partly as dust but also wanted to gum up a little bit so I agree, more than 3 days would be better.At LEAST three days...
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