1st Time Viking Build

[SharkWhisperer]

When I bought it I didn't know it had a streamer I see that thing never coming down if it catches an updraft. I don't think I would've bought it had I known.

No, it'll drop pretty straight down with the streamer. That Viking is only 13g. My lil' Wizards are just 14g, maybe a little more with some paint jobs. They're light enough that they can drop at a pretty good clip and not snap fins unless they hit the parking lot hardpack. Wizards have balsa fins and Vikings have cardstock fins. I've chipped/snapped a few Wizard fins. Never flown cardstock, so no idea how those hold up. They come down--my problem is if I say "aww, what the heck" and toss a C into that puppy. With a C, I lose sight of it half the time if not more often (Both Wizards and Vikings can fly to 1600 feet on a C and they're small), so I'm looking and looking. On an A or a B, they're fun flyers and you can see them the whole way, even up to whatever they're reaching on a B motor (600-700 feet?). That all green paint scheme might work against you unless it's dayglow green--lawns and weeds and trees are green :=} Yellow or red might increase your recovery rate... Bright streamers help too, especially reflective ones. You can make a many cheap streamers from a single $1-2 mylar space blanket!

 

[teepot]

I'll second the mylar streamers. The really catch the light and are highly visible.

 

[SharkWhisperer]

Whatever you'd like to do! Gloss is good on a Viking.

Good thread, lots of great learning and sharing in here. Vikings and a bulk pack of A8-3s are good cheap fun!

Here! Here! In a bulk pack (AC Supply) they're $1.80/motor and include wadding and 6 extra igniters. They rip skyward pretty well on an A10-3T 13mm motor in a plastic Estes adapter, too. Similar altitude (less weight even with adapter) and $1.54/motor (no wadding/extra igniters).

Very excellent fun at a very reasonable cost! Those little half ounce rockets (plus motor weight) will get some surprising altitude on an A-impulse motor!

 

[jrap330]

View attachment 477572Now it looks like a candy cane. Lol. If it doesn't fly maybe I'll eat it.

Easier to do spirals than attach fins. You now have to sand around each fin.

 

[DMehalko]

Fun kits! See here a box turned into one rocket using all the body tubes and all the nose cones haha

 

[Ronz Rocketz]

I almost flew my Thomas Viking 2-cluster yesterday (2x A8-3) but broke one of the fins. It’s fixed now. Slight crinkle. Next week…

 

[John_lennon]

Fun kits! See here a box turned into one rocket using all the body tubes and all the nose cones haha

I enjoyed watching that Viking monster build video it's amazing that he came up with such an amazing design.
@rklapp I like your double tube build as well as your speckled paint job. I guess the sky's the limit literally & figuratively when it comes to building and finishing.
I sanded the CWF and felt that it needed another coat in a few spots, I just sanded it down for the second time realizing I sanded to far in 1 spot. I reapplied just a smidge to conceal that crinkled area from me ripping that yellow spacer tube out. I'm going to try to get a coat of primer on it later today. Hopefully that goes well. I'm trying to think of how to paint it. Do most of you guys use a dowel and a box to set up a booth to spray in. I live in a 10flr condo. So I won't be spraying in a basement, or inside. I'm thinking it's kinda gotta be transportable after spraying is done. I believe a box might offer the best transportability during the painting processes. It's been awhile since I've spray painted anything. Is it still best to do sweeping short bursts for the best paint application? If anyone has any good ideas, tutorials, or videos that might help me with the next step I'd greatly appreciate it. I forgot to ask do you spray it with the nose cone in place? What's the workaround for that? Thanks, Dyl

 

[Antares JS]

I enjoyed watching that Viking monster build video it's amazing that he came up with such an amazing design.
@rklapp I like your double tube build as well as your speckled paint job. I guess the sky's the limit literally & figuratively when it comes to building and finishing.
I sanded the CWF and felt that it needed another coat in a few spots, I just sanded it down for the second time realizing I sanded to far in 1 spot. I reapplied just a smidge to conceal that crinkled area from me ripping that yellow spacer tube out. I'm going to try to get a coat of primer on it later today. Hopefully that goes well. I'm trying to think of how to paint it. Do most of you guys use a dowel and a box to set up a booth to spray in. I live in a 10flr condo. So I won't be spraying in a basement, or inside. I'm thinking it's kinda gotta be transportable after spraying is done. I believe a box might offer the best transportability during the painting processes. It's been awhile since I've spray painted anything. Is it still best to do sweeping short bursts for the best paint application? If anyone has any good ideas, tutorials, or videos that might help me with the next step I'd greatly appreciate it. I forgot to ask do you spray it with the nose cone in place? What's the workaround for that? Thanks, Dyl

For transportability, just roll up a piece of paper and stick it in the end of the rocket. Instant painting wand to hold and turn the rocket with as you paint. Sweeping short bursts is indeed still the best way to go.

 

[SharkWhisperer]

Now you let the cat out of the bag with your spray painting queries!! Prepare for the onslaught of (very good) advice! This will be almost as entertaining as the venerable glue thread!

That said, a used engine on a dowel, or just a dowel (or rolled up paper like Antares mentioned), is great assistance for positioning smaller models like the Viking for painting. Try your spray cans on a piece of cardboard before your rocket, so you know that general spray pattern you're working with (same with primer). You want to spray a uniform distance from your rocket, and uniformly overlap rows of spray. Start and end the spray "off-rocket" so you get uniform application on-rocket, i.e., get the spray flowing before it meets rocket and follow-through slightly after you reach the end. Do it robotically but don't dawdle. Be sure tricky regions (fillets, lug-BT junctions) aren't overlooked. It's easy to add another coat but a lot more work if you overspray and get runs. Read and follow the instructions on individual paint cans if you're not familiar or using multiple brands on the same rocket. Temperature and time-between-coats is important, and variable.

In warmer weather I do all my spraying outside on quiet-wind days. Can you spray outdoors or in your parking garage? In crummy weather or winter in the basement with large cardboard slats protecting things that don't need spray painting. Many use boxes, but I haven't tried. The spray will create new drafts inside a box, perhaps more so with smaller boxes, so test that on cardboard before your rocket. If your nosecone isn't inside a BT when spraying, then mask the insertion area so it doesn't get thick with paint and bind you nosecone to your BT after everythings painted (and then need to be sanded off).

There's always more to learn with spray painting, so now I will retire and let the more experienced finishers take over!!!

 

[Ronz Rocketz]

I enjoyed watching that Viking monster build video it's amazing that he came up with such an amazing design.
@rklapp I like your double tube build as well as your speckled paint job. I guess the sky's the limit literally & figuratively when it comes to building and finishing.
I sanded the CWF and felt that it needed another coat in a few spots, I just sanded it down for the second time realizing I sanded to far in 1 spot. I reapplied just a smidge to conceal that crinkled area from me ripping that yellow spacer tube out. I'm going to try to get a coat of primer on it later today. Hopefully that goes well. I'm trying to think of how to paint it. Do most of you guys use a dowel and a box to set up a booth to spray in. I live in a 10flr condo. So I won't be spraying in a basement, or inside. I'm thinking it's kinda gotta be transportable after spraying is done. I believe a box might offer the best transportability during the painting processes. It's been awhile since I've spray painted anything. Is it still best to do sweeping short bursts for the best paint application? If anyone has any good ideas, tutorials, or videos that might help me with the next step I'd greatly appreciate it. I forgot to ask do you spray it with the nose cone in place? What's the workaround for that? Thanks, Dyl

This works great. I have a fan for it but haven't bothered using the fan yet. I avoid painting in the morning to avoid crackling. I think it's due to the hot humid weather here.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I1YI09O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My first 2-cluster...

 

[John_lennon]

Thanks so much guys for all the valuable information and tips. I hope things go a tad better with my painting and finishing processes, than that terrible mistake so early on in the build process. When I said I was thinking of using a box as a spray booth I was thinking more along the lines of the bottom, 2 sides with holes for the dowel to rest and the back. If you can imagine what I'm trying to describe. Maybe I'll just use the dowel method in the park behind my house that way I don't have to worry about over spray that much. In my case the grass may not always be greener on the other side of the fence. Lol..
Thanks, Dyl

 

[John_lennon]

Cool launch video those little tiny rockets had trouble with the chutes popping out or do they not have any? It'll be a long long time before I get a squadron of rockets to fly like that. I'm amazed you got that 1 down off the roof. It looks like your shoot site is some big athletic field from what I gathered by the big light posts.

 

[Ronz Rocketz]

Cool launch video those little tiny rockets had trouble with the chutes popping out or do they not have any? It'll be a long long time before I get a squadron of rockets to fly like that. I'm amazed you got that 1 down off the roof. It looks like your shoot site is some big athletic field from what I gathered by the big light posts.

The park is about 150m wide. @kuririn did a fantastic job recreating the Gooney Birds. My Missile Toe clone attempt wasn't nearly as tough as his.

 

[John_lennon]

Hi guys sorry it's been awhile but I believe I'm at the stage where I need to primer the rocket the weather and time off from work just hasn't been correct. Should I have not attached the nose cone to the rubber shock cord for painting purposes? I'm guessing I don't want to paint with the nose cone seated in the BT. Should I unhook it from the shock cord and use a piece of string tied to it for painting purposes. Can someone point me towards a very detailed finishing thread or tell me the steps involved in the painting processes. I've grabbed a few dowels to aid in painting allowing me not to have to hold the rocket. What's the best substance to used to brace the BT on the crumpled up paper, paper towel, cloth possibly? What's a fair amount of time to let the paint dry outside before bringing it in. It's been a very very long time since I've spray painted anything. I live in a 1bdrm condo & don't need the paint transfer on anything in the house. I'm also worried about leaving it outside to dry unattended. I live in a city and people like to destroy things, it'd just be my type of luck that someone grabs it while it's drying and smashes it on the ground. How many coats of this or that should I expect. As I stated earlier I bought some Tamiya colored paints. I purchased Rust-Oleum universal bonding primer and Rust-Oleum 2x Ultra Cover gloss clear for the Clear coat. This is how the rocket currently looks.

 

[Ronz Rocketz]

So no balcony? I use a long dowel to hold the rocket from the rear. You could open a window and have it sticking out the window. I don't have a problem with the NC stuck to the tube after painting. The only time I have an issue is when I use Pledge Floor Gloss as the final coat. You can use the paint booth I mentioned above, use a filter, and point a fan toward an open window. Good luck.

 

[John_lennon]

So no balcony? I use a long dowel to hold the rocket from the rear. You could open a window and have it sticking out the window. I don't have a problem with the NC stuck to the tube after painting. The only time I have an issue is when I use Pledge Floor Gloss as the final coat. You can use the paint booth I mentioned above, use a filter, and point a fan toward an open window. Good luck.

I believe I can paint out back we've got a park. I'm just wondering do I have to leave it outside for a considerable amount of time or can I bring it in right after painting? No I've definitely got no balcony and my wife would probably kill me when the winds change and something in our unit gets splattered with a spray of paint. I'd kill for a balcony. Lol. Do you think I'll be fine with my paint selection. I see a lot of you guys painting in gray primer should I be using gray I believe I bought white. Any recommendations on paint or is the stuff I bought ok?

 

[neil_w]

Painting is something that takes a while to master. Don't expect perfect results your first time out.

1) White primer is fine.
2) For the nose cone: yeah, usually you don't attach it until afterwards. However, if it's going to be the same color (or for priming), just wrap some blue tape around the shoulder right to to the edge of the nose, and then insert it 3/4 of the way and paint it like that. If the nose is going to be a different color, then final coat should be done with the nose detached.
3) Common way to hold the rocket while painting is with a dowel stuck into the motor mount. Sometimes I use one that is a bit smaller than the engine block, and stick the dowel far into the rocket. Other times a spent motor can be put on the end of a dowel and inserted properly into the motor mount. Anything you can rig that will hold the rocket is fine.
4) You can bring the rocket inside immediately after painting.... but it will stink. The smell will decrease over the course of the first hour, but depending on what type of paint it is it can smell for a long time. I don't have a good suggestion for you here. Certainly, until the paint is dry you want to be careful not to touch it, so make sure you have something that can hold the rocket on the dowel safely off the ground. Lacquer paints dry much more quickly than enamels, so you should be in good shape with the Tamiya sprays.
5) There are many tutorials available on Youtube etc. about spray painting technique. #1 rule is to follow the instructions on the can regarding painting conditions and recoat times. A couple of coats of primer (sanded, if you like), followed by roughly three coats of top coat (depending on paint variety) is usually good. Keep the can about 12" from the rocket and keep it moving steadily to avoid runs.
6) Remember that you can always practice on a piece of scrap to get a feel for what you're doing before you start applying paint to the rocket.

 

[John_lennon]

Thanks for the breakdown Neil I appreciate it. Ok next question is stickers I believe they're the water slide kind right? I remember having troubles as a kid any recommendations for easy application and removal from their backing. I remember reading somewhere that people use some type of solvent to help, some type of stuff made for sticker application.

 

[DigBaddy]

Viking decals are peel and stick.

 

[Ronz Rocketz]

I believe I can paint out back we've got a park. I'm just wondering do I have to leave it outside for a considerable amount of time or can I bring it in right after painting? No I've definitely got no balcony and my wife would probably kill me when the winds change and something in our unit gets splattered with a spray of paint. I'd kill for a balcony. Lol. Do you think I'll be fine with my paint selection. I see a lot of you guys painting in gray primer should I be using gray I believe I bought white. Any recommendations on paint or is the stuff I bought ok?

Personally, I don't sweat the painting that much. You're more likely to scratch the paint getting it into your car. Actual launching will also cause dings and scratches. When the NC swings around and hits your fins, that's called the Estes kiss because the rubber shock cords in the kits are crap. When I paint, I paint to the full 80%. It's also a question of how good do you want it to look, 10' away, 5' away, or up close? I usually go for 2' away. Don't forget to take a picture of the rocket before it lands in a tree or a lake.

The beauty of the portable paint booth is that the spray gets captured on the filter as the air is drawn through with the floor fan. If you put another fan at the window, then the smells should also travel out. The odors last about an hour, but the paint doesn't fully cure for a day or two so don't lean it against anything or it will dent the paint.

White primer is chalky and easy to sand but it will run so light coats. Grey primer is gummy and hides many mistakes but will also gum up your sandpaper. I use 0000 steel wool on the primer then use a little baby powder to keep the sandpaper from getting clogged with primer. Some people wait an hour between coats, some wait a year. Your choice. Personally I wait a day. Paint crackling and splattering are problems that can occur.

Hmm, John Lennon and Yoko used to live across the street from Central Park...

 

[John_lennon]

Personally, I don't sweat the painting that much. You're more likely to scratch the paint getting it into your car. Actual launching will also cause dings and scratches. When the NC swings around and hits your fins, that's called the Estes kiss because the rubber shock cords in the kits are crap. When I paint, I paint to the full 80%. It's also a question of how good do you want it to look, 10' away, 5' away, or up close? I usually go for 2' away. Don't forget to take a picture of the rocket before it lands in a tree or a lake.

The beauty of the portable paint booth is that the spray gets captured on the filter as the air is drawn through with the floor fan. If you put another fan at the window, then the smells should also travel out. The odors last about an hour, but the paint doesn't fully cure for a day or two so don't lean it against anything or it will dent the paint.

White primer is chalky and easy to sand but it will run so light coats. Grey primer is gummy and hides many mistakes but will also gum up your sandpaper. I use 0000 steel wool on the primer then use a little baby powder to keep the sandpaper from getting clogged with primer. Some people wait an hour between coats, some wait a year. Your choice. Personally I wait a day. Paint crackling and splattering are problems that can occur.

Hmm, John Lennon and Yoko used to live across the street from Central Park...

Maybe he didn't die yoko got too weird so I faked my own death. Lol.

 

[John_lennon]

So I went to Home Depot yesterday to get a can of flat black. To say they have the worst spray paint department is an understatement. It was decimated, there must be a lot of people in my city doing graffiti. They carded me to buy a can so I'm guessing a lot of youth are painting the city up. Has anyone ever tried the high heat paints or the auto body paints before? When painting metallic paints do you buy the glittery kind or just the color for example silver or gold colors? They also had a lot of Chalk branded paint line. Another type of paint they had it was geared towards metals, are these all okay to use? I guess I'm going to have to grab my paint in a small Mom & Pop place to get a better supply. Which stinks because Home Depot is a 5min drive whereas the Mom & Pop place is about a 25min drive, but this is where I purchased my primer and my clear coat. Oh well I could call it my paint adventure ride. Lol. If anyone has had any experiences with these paints I'd appreciate the feedback as I said earlier it's been a long time since I've used Spray Paint and I kinda don't remember all the options long ago.

 

[neil_w]

Everyone has their own preferences. I normally buy from Home Depot and stock is usually good but occasionally no. Right now, so many industrial supply chains are messed up, it's no surprise to me when any particular product is scarce on store shelves. Anyway, I use:

• The "Stops Rust" metallics. These have produced consistently superb results for me. In generally, they are thin and require several light coats but the results are excellent. Silver is a bit more challenging than the colors (light coats!!!). https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/metallic/. Examples:
  
  (left: blue metallic; right: black metallic on body and silver metallic on fins)
• 2x Paints (Painter's Touch or American Accents) for "normal" colors and normal primer.
• Automotive Filler/Primer https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/primers/filler-primer-spray/

And that's it. I've used the high-heat paint on a fireplace grate, but not on rockets. I wouldn't touch the chalk stuff for rockets, nor the stuff specifically intended for metals. Might work but I have no interest in that kind of experimentation.

 

[teepot]

I've used both the metallic, the glittery kind, and regular metal look paint. I haven't used the chalky kind. Your Home Depot isn't the only one. Ours has more empty space than in stock paint.

 

[hcmbanjo]

Viking decals are peel and stick.

And - the edges of the body tube wrap stickers will probably lift after a few hours.
I usually end up setting a piece of clear tape over the lifts.

 

[John_lennon]

Viking decals are peel and stick.

The decal sheet I have has little dashed lines for cut lines is this common with the peel and stick decals I figured if they were peel and stick that they'd be stamp cut in the shapes the outer edges should be. More like regular stickers. That's why I figured they were the water slide that I remember as a child.

 

[John_lennon]

Everyone has their own preferences. I normally buy from Home Depot and stock is usually good but occasionally no. Right now, so many industrial supply chains are messed up, it's no surprise to me when any particular product is scarce on store shelves. Anyway, I use:

• The "Stops Rust" metallics. These have produced consistently superb results for me. In generally, they are thin and require several light coats but the results are excellent. Silver is a bit more challenging than the colors (light coats!!!). https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/metallic/. Examples:
  View attachment 480463 View attachment 480464
  (left: blue metallic; right: black metallic on body and silver metallic on fins)
• 2x Paints (Painter's Touch or American Accents) for "normal" colors and normal primer.
• Automotive Filler/Primer https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/primers/filler-primer-spray/

And that's it. I've used the high-heat paint on a fireplace grate, but not on rockets. I wouldn't touch the chalk stuff for rockets, nor the stuff specifically intended for metals. Might work but I have no interest in that kind of experimentation.

Thanks Neil for your words of wisdom as always. I was just taken back a bit at all the different options. The reason I mentioned the chalk paint is it looks similar to a flat matte black. But I could clearly see that certain paints were meant for certain types of applications. Figuring if there was a way I could screw up this 1st Rocket build one more time I would with my lack of knowledge on paint finishes, paint types, or paint styles. It's really a lot of info to try to absorb when you think a quick trip to Home Depot has you wanting to read someone's thesis on paint. Thus turning my quick trip into a long and grueling one as people walk by my dumbfounded ass staring at paints like I just started peaking on an Acid Trip. Lol

 

[Ronz Rocketz]

Thanks Neil for your words of wisdom as always. I was just taken back a bit at all the different options. The reason I mentioned the chalk paint is it looks similar to a flat matte black. But I could clearly see that certain paints were meant for certain types of applications. Figuring if there was a way I could screw up this 1st Rocket build one more time I would with my lack of knowledge on paint finishes, paint types, or paint styles. It's really a lot of info to try to absorb when you think a quick trip to Home Depot has you wanting to read someone's thesis on paint. Thus turning my quick trip into a long and grueling one as people walk by my dumbfounded ass staring at paints like I just started peaking on an Acid Trip. Lol

I think you’re overthinking the Viking build, but in a good way.
Hopefully this will be the first of hundreds of rockets you build. I have the DARC-1 waiting to build and we’re all holding our breath for the Mars Snooper. Sandra at Estes is hinting that it’s really close.

I’m currently painting the black stripes on the Cosmic Interceptor and its not easy. I'm hoping to get the decaling done before tomorrow's Labor Day launch. After a days work of painting, I don't want to lose this one like i almost did with my AMRAAM. Well, if rocketry was easy, everyone would be doing it and what would be the fun in that?

Home Depot is okay but our Walmart has a better selection. We don't have a lot of choices here on the island.

 

[John_lennon]

I think you’re overthinking the Viking build, but in a good way.
Hopefully this will be the first of hundreds of rockets you build. I have the DARC-1 waiting to build and we’re all holding our breath for the Mars Snooper. Sandra at Estes is hinting that it’s really close.

I’m currently painting the black stripes on the Cosmic Interceptor and its not easy. I'm hoping to get the decaling done before tomorrow's Labor Day launch. After a days work of painting, I don't want to lose this one like i almost did with my AMRAAM. Well, if rocketry was easy, everyone would be doing it and what would be the fun in that?

Home Depot is okay but our Walmart has a better selection. We don't have a lot of choices here on the island.

What Island are you on? I'm overthinking because I'd like to build them to the best of my abilities. I'm trying to take in what I've been reading about for the months before I started building. I've read a real lot of informative stuff you guys are a wealth of information it's great. I love reading through the threads that I find interesting and love the photos too. Hopefully it's all going to go as planned I know a lot goes into finishing a rocket. I'd also like to teach my grandson the valuable lesson of working towards a goal and the necessary steps to get there. I don't see him that often due to our schedules not always lining up. But something is working, I had a conversation with him today about a multi staged rocket he's wanting to design with boosters with engines in them that separate off like real rockets of today. He's so smart and so design conscious on the things he builds out of cardboard. He's already got a few books of plans he's drawn up. Hopefully he gets a lot out of it learning all kinds of things plus I learn a lot too. Thanks for the help I appreciate it more than words can ever express.

 

[teepot]

What Island are you on? I'm overthinking because I'd like to build them to the best of my abilities. I'm trying to take in what I've been reading about for the months before I started building. I've read a real lot of informative stuff you guys are a wealth of information it's great. I love reading through the threads that I find interesting and love the photos too. Hopefully it's all going to go as planned I know a lot goes into finishing a rocket. I'd also like to teach my grandson the valuable lesson of working towards a goal and the necessary steps to get there. I don't see him that often due to our schedules not always lining up. But something is working, I had a conversation with him today about a multi staged rocket he's wanting to design with boosters with engines in them that separate off like real rockets of today. He's so smart and so design conscious on the things he builds out of cardboard. He's already got a few books of plans he's drawn up. Hopefully he gets a lot out of it learning all kinds of things plus I learn a lot too. Thanks for the help I appreciate it more than words can ever express.

Apogee sells a kit for SRB's. They also sell just the hooks so you can make your own SRB's.