Gorilla Wood Glue (Glue Thread!)

[RandyM]

I saw this at Wallyworld the other day and bought a bottle of it. I just used two nights ago to build a Sunward 6 footer. This stuff sets up fast. I liked it for attaching fins.

Anyone else try it yet?


(Who dosen't love a glue thread?) :rotflol:

 

[madsen]

I tried it. I love it. Works great. One tiny problem--do not use Epoxy around it. I have several instances where I used Gorilla glue, let it cure, and then used epoxy in close proximity. Some epoxy came in contact with the Gorilla glue. The epoxy basically melted the cured Gorilla glue. Sounds weird to me. I cannot explain it. It is a lot more convenient than epoxy in many instances because you do not have to mix A & B, but it is just as expensive as epoxy. So there.

 

[samb]

I saw this at Wallyworld the other day and bought a bottle of it. I just used two nights ago to build a Sunward 6 footer. This stuff sets up fast. I liked it for attaching fins.

Anyone else try it yet?


(Who dosen't love a glue thread?) :rotflol:

I just saw this stuff last night at The Home Depot. I did notice it was about a dollar more than Titebond II. I think it was 3.70somethin'. I believe that the bottle was smaller also but I wasn't taking notes.
I like their polyurethane glue for motor mounts and couplers where you don't want that quick yellow glue grab before the pieces are seated and aligned correctly. I'm sure I'll try this somewhere down the road as I do like glue too!

 

[thaddeus]

does this stuff foam up like regular Gorilla Glue? I found the regular stuff to be a royal pain for rockets. The foaming action makes a mess and pushes parts out of place. I swore I would never use it again. If this is better I might try it.

 

[RandyM]

does this stuff foam up like regular Gorilla Glue? I found the regular stuff to be a royal pain for rockets. The foaming action makes a mess and pushes parts out of place. I swore I would never use it again. If this is better I might try it.

No it does not foam at all. It is just a wood glue, but one that sets up really fast and seem to hold quite well.

The original Gorilla Glue does have a place in rocketry, but not for the normal stuff. Building a crayon, GG is about the only thing that will stick to the plastic of the nose cone. I use it to foam BB's in place in nosecones rather than epoxy since it doesn't generate as much heat. I've also used it to foam fin cans.

 

[AKPilot]

Don't know about others, but for fin attachments I've had to forgo wood glue altogether. Seems that the hot & humid weather here in the midwest has leant several of my models to become 'flexible' during the summer because of wood glue. Switched to epoxy and it seems to have cured the flex problem on fins, etc.

Still use wood glue internally and for LPR fillets though.

 

[samb]

No it does not foam at all. It is just a wood glue, but one that sets up really fast and seem to hold quite well.

The original Gorilla Glue does have a place in rocketry, but not for the normal stuff. Building a crayon, GG is about the only thing that will stick to the plastic of the nose cone. I use it to foam BB's in place in nosecones rather than epoxy since it doesn't generate as much heat. I've also used it to foam fin cans.

Well I haven't had a problem with excessive foaming when I use it for the internal applications that I mentioned above. I spread it thin with a stick or cotton swab; I get a little more working time than yellow glue to get the parts set right. I usually build in the garage so I'll bring the parts inside to cure. This stuff reacts to any kind of moisture so the less humid the better. I guess I've just had some bad luck with motor mounts and couplers grabbing at the wrong time with yellow glue.

 

[caheaton]

I haven't tried their wood glue, but it sounds interesting. I could use a fast grabbing wood glue. As for regular Gorilla Glue, I used it quite a bit during my G-Force build (in fact, I used 4 kinds of glue in that one). I used Gorilla Glue for the fillets on the motor mount rings, where the fins meet the motor mount, where the fins meet the body tube (internal) and to secure the screw eyes. To make sure the gorilla glue didn't push the fins out of the fin locks, I anchored them in place first with spots of epoxy (would have used epoxy for the fillets, but I only had a little left...hence the tryout of Gorilla glue). Used CA for most of the build, but I did use Elmer's wood glue for the tube coupler.
Craig

 

[lakeroadster]

Glue Strength Data

 

[samb]

Glue threads: The Arising !

 

[Lugnut56]

I usually use TB II, but it appears the WM by me doesn't carry it any longer. I picked up a bottle of Gorilla Wood Glue at while at HL, and have been happy with it the short time I've been using it. The label on my bottle looks slightly different than yours, but I believe it's the same stuff.

 

[BABAR]

I usually use TB II, but it appears the WM by me doesn't carry it any longer. I picked up a bottle of Gorilla Wood Glue at while at HL, and have been happy with it the short time I've been using it. The label on my bottle looks slightly different than yours, but I believe it's the same stuff.

View attachment 475357

Just don’t use it on your hair!

 

[Lugnut56]

Just don’t use it on your hair!

Oh Crap!! Now you tell me!

 

[Spitfire222]

The label on my bottle looks slightly different than yours,

Probably because that photo is from 13 years ago.

 

[ep29030]

Don't know about others, but for fin attachments I've had to forgo wood glue altogether. Seems that the hot & humid weather here in the midwest has leant several of my models to become 'flexible' during the summer because of wood glue. Switched to epoxy and it seems to have cured the flex problem on fins, etc.

Still use wood glue internally and for LPR fillets though.

Some wood glues are sensitive to moisture-some are not. Titebond III is very water-resistant, and can be used for exterior applications. Not so for Titebond and Titebond II.

 

[lakeroadster]

Some wood glues are sensitive to moisture-some are not. Titebond III is very water-resistant, and can be used for exterior applications. Not so for Titebond and Titebond II.