How to connect two launch rails

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highflyer1968

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Okay so I have two 6 ft 1010 rails and want to attach them together but this process seems a little harder then I thought. Does anyone have an idea how to join them? Two 6 ft rails are a little easier to transport then the 8 ft I have.
 
Three of these brackets should do the trick. If they're a little pricey for your tastes, it should be pretty simple to replicate them by just drilling some holes in aluminum bar stock.
 
I use two sections of 1" angle aluminum along with 12 bolts and nuts (4 each side). They tie into three sides of the rail.
 
If you're not in a rush, give it a week and I'll probably have my order from them to give you some feedback. I needed a 1010 rail to do some launches on my own and got the connectors, L brackets, tnut hardware, plus 48 and 72" sections for $67 shipped.
 
If you're not in a rush, give it a week and I'll probably have my order from them to give you some feedback. I needed a 1010 rail to do some launches on my own and got the connectors, L brackets, tnut hardware, plus 48 and 72" sections for $67 shipped.
Nope not in a hurry so I will wait and see what you think of them and maybe you could post a few pictures to if your really ambitious

Thanks everybody for your ideas
 
If you're not in a rush, give it a week and I'll probably have my order from them to give you some feedback. I needed a 1010 rail to do some launches on my own and got the connectors, L brackets, tnut hardware, plus 48 and 72" sections for $67 shipped.
Just wondering if you ever tried the brackets for attaching two 1010 rails together?
 
I am also going to be adding a 4 foot 1010 rail onto the clubs 6 foot rail.
Three sets of three screw threaded 'T' plates and three pieces of 3/16" x 1" x 4" aluminum plates on the three sides.
I need a higher off the rail speed for a tall 2-stage rocket. Launch is 7 April so will know then if this works.
 
They join together just fine, nice and sturdy, join one plate at a time, nice flat surface, otherwise PITA to get lined up and slid together. Not much leeway in screw adjustment for joining, has to be just right for both of them. We use the fasteners shown in post #8.
 
I bought a 3-foot piece of 1" x .125" aluminum at Lowes and made these. The hardware is from Grainger.

IMG_019.jpg IMG_020.jpg

The taller your rail is, the more leverage there is on that joint. If you're going 12 feet, you'll want a span of a foot or so bracing the joint. That's with aluminum. Steel, not so much.
 
I bought a 3-foot piece of 1" x .125" aluminum at Lowes and made these. The hardware is from Grainger.

View attachment 508940 View attachment 508941

The taller your rail is, the more leverage there is on that joint. If you're going 12 feet, you'll want a span of a foot or so bracing the joint. That's with aluminum. Steel, not so much.
I like this idea so I think I might try this. Good to know that I will want at least a foot of bracing
 
I bought a 3-foot piece of 1" x .125" aluminum at Lowes and made these. The hardware is from Grainger.

View attachment 508940 View attachment 508941

The taller your rail is, the more leverage there is on that joint. If you're going 12 feet, you'll want a span of a foot or so bracing the joint. That's with aluminum. Steel, not so much.
Just wondering what are the screws/bolts attached to in the rail
 
Just wondering what are the screws/bolts attached to in the rail
https://www.grainger.com/product/80-20-Dbl-T-Nut-and-2-FBHSCS-10-2RCT8Look at the hardware in the link above. The flat plate slides up the inside of the rail, then the bolts attach from the outside.
Regarding the anchor that @Titan II links to above, I couldn't find these in the 1010 series, which is the 1" rail. So I went with the hardware from Grainger. A little pricey, but it works great.
 
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