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Actually I printed this over several days & finished it up today. I was looking for air tight filament boxes on Thingiverse and ran across a design by SpannerHands that I liked. So I decided to print it with the PLA I have on hand. Since the bed of my Ender 3 V2 is 220mm x 220mm I hand to print the 4 piece version. I also found that a fellow designed a desiccant holding spool roller and I printed that too. There is also a drop in wall mount bracket that is not shown.FilamentBox1.jpgFilamentBox2.jpgFilamentBox3.jpg

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2119644https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3034449
 
cwbullet said:
What printer do you use?
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We currently have four Raise 3D N2's and four Raise N2 Plus printers. The Raise 3D N2's can build parts 12" x 12" and the Raise N2 Plus's can build parts 12" x 24". All are fully enclosed with 300C capable hot ends and are connected via wireless network to the RaiseCloud digital production platform. They are the best industrial printers we could find that were affordable. We bought and tested 7 or 8 other enclosed printers (trying to go cheaper) before we realized that in the long run it was worth spending the money to aquire better printers. Thanks to all of our customers they are in operation 24/7/365 and have been extremely reliable! By the way if anyone has a Raise 3D N2 or N2 Plus they want to sell we are in the market to purchase more (at the right price).
 
Sheree said:
We currently have four Raise 3D N2's and four Raise N2 Plus printers. The Raise 3D N2's can build parts 12" x 12" and the Raise N2 Plus's can build parts 12" x 24". All are fully enclosed with 300C capable hot ends and are connected via wireless network to the RaiseCloud digital production platform. They are the best industrial printers we could find that were affordable. We bought and tested 7 or 8 other enclosed printers (trying to go cheaper) before we realized that in the long run it was worth spending the money to aquire better printers. Thanks to all of our customers they are in operation 24/7/365 and have been extremely reliable! By the way if anyone has a Raise 3D N2 or N2 Plus they want to sell we are in the market to purchase more (at the right price).
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How many do you have in your farm? I looked at this printed and bought a prusa instead but I am still looking at these.
 
cwbullet said:
How many do you have in your farm? I looked at this printed and bought a prusa instead but I am still looking at these.
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The Prusa is a wonderful printer with one drawback, it's not enclosed. That limits the size of ABS prints that can be produced on it. Even if the print stays attached to the bed a large print will experience cracks and layer separation issues. Second most of the Prusa's frame attachment points are 3D printed and will be susceptible to maintenance issues in the long run.
 
Sheree said:
The Prusa is a wonderful printer with one drawback, it's not enclosed. That limits the size of ABS prints that can be produced on it. Even if the print stays attached to the bed a large print will experience cracks and layer separation issues. Second most of the Prusa's frame attachment points are 3D printed and will be susceptible to maintenance issues in the long run.
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I have not seen the issues with maintenance is two years. I enclosed it myself.
 
cwbullet said:
I have not seen the issues with maintenance is two years. I enclosed it myself.
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I mean to say if used in a production environment. If used as a hobby printer it should last a long time. One word of caution, printers that are not designed to be enclosed may not have motherboards, stepper motors, or stepper drivers that are designed or rated for the additional heat. When we started we had ROBO R1 printers. We enclosed them to print ABS and within 6 months of continuous use we went through 3 stepper motors and 2 motherboards. In contrast we have 2 of our N2's that have over 12,000 hrs of use with no issues except nozzle changes.
 
Printed this ebay sled last night and pressed in the heat set inserts and test fit the components before work this morning. The Missile Works RRC2L, screw switch, and battery holder fit perfectly. I'll get all the soldering done this weekend for the wiring. The part was printed in transparent green 3DSolutech PETG on my Ultibots D300VS delta printer, 235 degrees C onto a PEI bed at 70 degrees C. I included a photo of the printer in case people don't know what the D300VS is - 310mm build plate with a print height of 435mm, running DC42 firmware on a Duet Wifi. It takes up a lot of room but prints well and prints fast. Unfortunately, it is no longer available. If it was, I'd have a second one sitting next to this one.

This will be for my first dual deploy rocket. The sled will go into a 3" coupler that is 5" long. I should be ready to start on the main construction of the rocket as soon as I can get the two bulkheads and the charge wells machined - been a little too hot to go play in the garage the last few days. I'll probably start a build thread in the High Power forum this weekend to document the build and get feedback.

RRC2L_Sled.jpg
RRC2L_Sled2.jpg
d300vs.jpg
 
_kestrel_ said:
Printed this ebay sled last night and pressed in the heat set inserts and test fit the components before work this morning. The Missile Works RRC2L, screw switch, and battery holder fit perfectly. I'll get all the soldering done this weekend for the wiring. The part was printed in transparent green 3DSolutech PETG on my Ultibots D300VS delta printer, 235 degrees C onto a PEI bed at 70 degrees C. I included a photo of the printer in case people don't know what the D300VS is - 310mm build plate with a print height of 435mm, running DC42 firmware on a Duet Wifi. It takes up a lot of room but prints well and prints fast. Unfortunately, it is no longer available. If it was, I'd have a second one sitting next to this one.

This will be for my first dual deploy rocket. The sled will go into a 3" coupler that is 5" long. I should be ready to start on the main construction of the rocket as soon as I can get the two bulkheads and the charge wells machined - been a little too hot to go play in the garage the last few days. I'll probably start a build thread in the High Power forum this weekend to document the build and get feedback.

View attachment 425713
View attachment 425714
View attachment 425720
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I like how you put the 9v battery laying horizontal. Helps reduce the chance that acceleration separates the battery from the terminals. Thoughtful touch!
 
John Kemker said:
I like how you put the 9v battery laying horizontal. Helps reduce the chance that acceleration separates the battery from the terminals. Thoughtful touch!
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Yes - the battery horizontal was done for two reasons. The first is as you had stated. The second was the desire to use the coupler that the kit came with and that wouldn't fit with the battery on a conventional flat sled. This sled also has a lot of wire management printed in - points for zip ties that will keep everything clean and hopefully improve the reliability of the electronics. I have an embarrassing amount of time put into this little piece of plastic...
 
Here it is with the wiring completed. My soldering skills are a bit rusty but it powers up. Might need to order some soldering practice kits off of Amazon and work on my skill set a bit. I also bought a ferrule kit and a crimper for the connections at the terminal block. Really like how that worked out. The ejection charges will route up and out the bulkhead for the main charge; up over and down for the drogue. Both will pass through the bulkheads using Missile Works sealing well nuts.
back.jpg
front.jpg
 
cwbullet said:
How well does this printer work?
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The printer has been running (not non-stop, but a lot) since 2017. I haven't touched a wrench to it since I finished the build. I'll jinx myself here, but I haven't even had to clear a filament jam. Mine uses the Ultibots-designed extruder and an E3d-V6 hot end. The later version made prior to Ultibots ceasing operation used a E3d Titan Aero. The controller is a Duet Wifi and the bed has autolevel using a JohnSL FSR kit. Mine has a PEI sheet on borosilicate glass heated through an aluminum spreader and 24volt kapton heater (all stock except for the PEI sheet.)

Noman Sheik at Snolabs Filament has a blog post about self-sourcing a D300VS:

https://snolabs.com/blog/our-delta-printer-build/
It certainly isn't a printer I'd recommend as a first printer but I love mine. It has a direct drive extruder, solving a lot of the problems that deltas with bowdens have. With the FSR leveling, it solves the other major delta headache, calibration and leveling. The documentation for the printer (https://ultibots.dozuki.com/Guide/UltiBots+D300VS+Build+Guide/1) was written by Michael Hackney and is top-notch. The printer is also opensource and models are available through the Ultibots github, https://github.com/UltiBots . Noman Sheik has also got Fusion360 models available for his self-sourced version. The hardest to source part would be the arms but the original supplier of the magball arms, Haydn Huntley, will still produce arm sets. Both Noman Sheik and Haydn Huntley can be reached through the Ultibots Facebook group, https://www.facebook.com/groups/UltiBots . I'd love it if someone would pick up the torch for the D300VS and offer kits again, maybe incorporating a Bondtech BMG or the Hemera.
 
I'll add this, when I run an autocal before every print, my calibration error is usually under 0.015mm. I haven't touched my z-height to make sure I'll get a good first layer since I built it. We ran the printer for over 400 hours in January to print these:

1595794199837.png

We did 150 nose cones and fin cans for BT-20 size rockets to build with the local middle school. Every 7th grader got to build and launch a rocket. Couldn't have done it without a reliable printer.

At work we have Lulzbot Taz printers, Prusa I3 Mk3 printers, a few older Makerbots, and a massive 3DP (1000mm x 1000mm x 500mm) and I will take the print quality of my delta over all of them. Not a fair comparison to the 3DP though, we have it for the print volume and speed - not for quality.
 
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Printed some carriers for my Flight Sketch Mini altimeters sized to fit into a BT20 sized airframe. They are the same OD as a BT20 coupler so they are a sliding fit. Material is Overture Natural/Transparent PETG. Design software is SolidWorks 2014 x64. Total weight RTF is 9.2 or 9.3 grams (one is slightly heavier than the other). My next project is to make carriers for the BT20 carrier so it adapts to other larger airframes, these are great little alts and I really like them, carriers are 1.5" long x .708" diameter. The battery is removeable while in the carrier and the power button can be accessed on the end opposite the lanyard. The cutout beside the bluetooth unit is for visibility of the LED. Still a bit of iterating to do yet but these are functional and should provide a fair amount of protection to the unit. The end opposite the lanyard can also have a streamer attached just in case the unit becomes detached from the rocket so its easier to find in the grass.

FS Mini BT20 Carrier 1.jpgFS Mini BT20 Carrier 2.jpgFS Mini BT20 Carrier 3.jpgFS Mini BT20 Carrier 4.jpgFS Mini BT20 Carrier 5.jpgFS Mini BT20 Carrier 6.jpgFS Mini BT20 Carrier 7.jpg
 
rharshberger said:
Printed some carriers for my Flight Sketch Mini altimeters sized to fit into a BT20 sized airframe. They are the same OD as a BT20 coupler so they are a sliding fit. Material is Overture Natural/Transparent PETG. Design software is SolidWorks 2014 x64. Total weight RTF is 9.2 or 9.3 grams (one is slightly heavier than the other). My next project is to make carriers for the BT20 carrier so it adapts to other larger airframes, these are great little alts and I really like them, carriers are 1.5" long x .708" diameter. The battery is removeable while in the carrier and the power button can be accessed on the end opposite the lanyard. The cutout beside the bluetooth unit is for visibility of the LED. Still a bit of iterating to do yet but these are functional and should provide a fair amount of protection to the unit. The end opposite the lanyard can also have a streamer attached just in case the unit becomes detached from the rocket so its easier to find in the grass.

View attachment 427127View attachment 427128View attachment 427129View attachment 427130View attachment 427131View attachment 427132View attachment 427133
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Very nice. That is worth uploading to Thingiverse. If you like Overture clear PETG, you will also like CC3D clear PETG.
 

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