What did you do rocket wise today?

[o1d_dude]

Love the Screaming Green Meany graphic!

 

[Wally Ferrer]

Love the Screaming Green Meany graphic!

I had mixed feelings about putting it on, as it's a paper sticker, but it is too cool not to.

 

[o1d_dude]

I had mixed feelings about putting it on, as it's a paper sticker, but it is too cool not to.

Keep the speed below Mach 1 and the paper will not burn up.

 

[PatD]

Let me try this again... Screamin' Green Meanie is ready to fly...

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Gotta love that!

 

[Adam3836]

Let me try this again... Screamin' Green Meanie is ready to fly...

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Nice job love the look of the rocket
Colors are great

 

[Wally Ferrer]

Nice job love the look of the rocket
Colors are great

Thanks, at least I didn't go to launch it before adding the rail buttons- I hate when that happens...

 

[Adam3836]

Thanks, at least I didn't go to launch it before adding the rail buttons- I hate when that happens...

very true lol but shes ready now !!
what’s the motor choice your picking for this rocket ?

 

[Wally Ferrer]

very true lol but shes ready now !!
what’s the motor choice your picking for this rocket ?

Will likely go D12-5 for first flight then maybe go to some composite E's

 

[Adam3836]

Will likely go D12-5 for first flight then maybe go to some composite E's

sounds perfect keep us posted on how she flys
Good luck !!

 

[o1d_dude]

Figured out a way to epoxy join the payload tube to the baffle of the fin can WITH the Kevlar shockcord permanently in place on the baffle

It only involved mounting a hook in the garage ceiling, cutting a notch in a length of pvc pipe, threading the shock cord through the pvc pipe, attaching a length of piano wire through the pipe from the end of the shockcord, and suspending it all from the hook. See attached photo.

I could have done it differently but I used what I had on hand and didn’t have to build anything new.

I’m calling this a win.

PS. The body tube spirals even line up.

 

[DRAGON64]

For the first time in 7-years, I renewed my NAR membership... if for nothing other than the magazine, which can be tough to find, even in "The Rocket City"

 

[jqavins]

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These two pictures seem to disagree on the color. The second (and all the rest I've seen) has a teal or maybe sea green color, while the other looks like more of a lime green. Which is closer to the in person reality?

 

[Wally Ferrer]

These two pictures seem to disagree on the color. The second (and all the rest I've seen) has a teal or maybe sea green color, while the other looks like more of a lime green. Which is closer to the in person reality?

The close up color is off- that tape is 3M blue painter's tape, the other photos are the reality. Rusto Spring Green...

 

[Joshua F Thomas]

Finished the sustainer section and payload bay of the ASP Rocketry "Way Too High" 2-stage kit. After this picture it went outside for a primer coat. Booster stage is getting some glue fillets and once those are hard, also getting some primer. Going to hold off on paint job until I launch it once; it's my first multi-stage rocket.


Note: I'm a little concerned about the inter-stage coupler. I had to sand it way, way down to make it fit. I gave it a coat of CA for strength, but I'm concerned the thinness and the heat from ejection + second stage will do some serious damage to it.

 

[jqavins]

There are a two things that come to mind. First, when you applied CA, was that inside, outside, or both? For strength, obviously both would be best.

Second, you could probably build up the inside of the coupler some to make up for the thickness you took off the outside. There are a couple of ways to go about it.

The third option, of course, is don't sweat it and forge ahead. If it feels solid then that's probably what I'd do.

 

[Joshua F Thomas]

I applied CA both inside and outside. I assumed that would be best for strength and heat resistance. The thing is, the coupler had to be made very thin to fit the sustainer stage. If I had been paying more attention I would have taken off some of the interior of the sustainer stage's body tube; but now it has the motor mount installed and I really have no way to sand any of it down.

 

[Joshua F Thomas]

Second, you could probably build up the inside of the coupler some to make up for the thickness you took off the outside. There are a couple of ways to go about it.

What are those options?

 

[jqavins]

Here are some things that come to mind, and not necessarily the best of all ideas.

A schmere of epoxy would probably do the whole job really well. Use something thick like JB Weld or thicker, but probably not as thick as PC7. You want a peanut butter consistency.

You could paper the inside of the coupler, much the same as one might paper a fin. I've only done fins once, and never the inside of a tube, so someone else can surely advise you there better than I can.

There's a way of making a coupler from a piece of tube by cutting a little stripe out of the wall lengthwise then pushing it closed , now a little smaller. You could do that to make a "coupler doubler" to glue inside.

For heat resistance, if that's your main concern, foil tape is popular.

What's the best way? That depends on what you've got handy and what you're comfortable doing. I'd probably either launch it as is or go with the schmere of epoxy. Ask a dozen rocketeers what's the best way to handle this and you'll get 15 different answers.

 

[Joekeyo]

Today I ordered a Mercury Redstone, a Gryphon, and some engines because I have run out of rockets to build.

For a good part of the corona virus season ( since March, (maybe?), time warp is part of the current era)... I bought 2 Estes designers specials because AC supply has free shipping on over $100. Here is a picture of all the rockets I built with the 2 designer specials. The box says you can build up to 8 rockets (16 for 2 boxes). I built 19 or 20; I tend to lose count. Some were inspired by estes or centuri kits past and present. I found Jim Z and the Michielssen rocket building blog to be extremely helpful. Some are missing NCs because there were not enough to go around. No problem there, I just switch them as I see fit. I have 2 and 3 stagers, 2 and 3 engine clusters, and 1- 2 stage with 3 engine clusters on both stages. All fins had a pattern traced on balsa and hand cut. No laser cut here. There is one that I am still painting and I plan on applying a few more decals. Other than that, they are done.

 

[Joshua F Thomas]

That tiny tube rocket is great. Is that a Micromaxx?

 

[Joekeyo]

The tube rocket uses 13mm engines.

 

[Joshua F Thomas]

There's a way of making a coupler from a piece of tube by cutting a little stripe out of the wall lengthwise then pushing it closed , now a little smaller. You could do that to make a "coupler doubler" to glue inside.

For heat resistance, if that's your main concern, foil tape is popular.

Thanks for the ideas. I made a spacer out of leftover tube coupler and CA'd aluminum foil to the inside of it. Took a few tries to get it right, but it fits just right and hopefully the foil will help some with the heat.

 

[Ronz Rocketz]

Took delivery of 4 beautiful custom cut canvas phenolic fins from MAC Performance Rocketry for my current project. I imagine most North American fliers are familiar with the quality of Mike's work, but these could well be the first MAC products to reach these shores. Very pleased with them.

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The project is a longer booster for the rocket in my avatar, capable of accommodating a 54mm L motor:

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You’re gonna need erockets’ recovery tool (aka shovel) if that lawn darts.

https://www.erockets.biz/erockets-rocket-recovery-shovel-erk-9081/

 

[Cape Byron]

Started a 24mm 'E' mount PMC of the Spacemonkey Models V2.

 

[ewomack]

Continued reading Harry Stine's "Handbook of Model Rocketry, 7th edition." This time a chapter on aerodynamics revealed some very interesting things, such as the deceptive nature of swept back fins, which, according to the chapter, provide the worst aerodynamic performance, but they look great. The book favors instead the "clipped delta" and the "elliptical," but since the "clipped delta" requires less effort, and only 1% more induced drag, the book recommends sticking with "clipped delta." Plus, I learned the types of drag: friction, pressure, interference, parasite and induced. Not to mention that the turbulent boundary layer of many rockets occurs intentionally at the transition from the nosecone to the body. Plus, the surprising fact that square edged fins appear to perform better than round-edged fins in wind tunnels. I'm still pondering that one. All good brain food. Highly recommend the book for those who want to go beyond the basics.

I also watched a number of Apogee construction videos. Relaxing and informative.

 

[Funkworks]

double post

 

[Funkworks]

I also watched a number of Apogee construction videos. Relaxing and informative.

Those are indeed very relaxing and informative.

I sawed and sanded a 5.38" motor mount ring because I need to add a 3rd one to a motor mount kit that only came with 2. It's for a scratch-built design I'm working on. Tomorrow, I need to buy a 1-5/8" spade drill bit so I can drill out the middle part.

 

[arconhi]

Today I ordered a Mercury Redstone, a Gryphon, and some engines because I have run out of rockets to build.

For a good part of the corona virus season ( since March, (maybe?), time warp is part of the current era)... I bought 2 Estes designers specials because AC supply has free shipping on over $100. Here is a picture of all the rockets I built with the 2 designer specials. The box says you can build up to 8 rockets (16 for 2 boxes). I built 19 or 20; I tend to lose count. Some were inspired by estes or centuri kits past and present. I found Jim Z and the Michielssen rocket building blog to be extremely helpful. Some are missing NCs because there were not enough to go around. No problem there, I just switch them as I see fit. I have 2 and 3 stagers, 2 and 3 engine clusters, and 1- 2 stage with 3 engine clusters on both stages. All fins had a pattern traced on balsa and hand cut. No laser cut here. There is one that I am still painting and I plan on applying a few more decals. Other than that, they are done. View attachment 426437

This is a nice Collection. I see the Wac Corporal at the bottom. We are waiting for our Launch Rod.

 

[Joshua F Thomas]

This is a nice Collection. I see the Wac Corporal at the bottom. We are waiting for our Launch Rod.

I got me one of those.

 

[arconhi]

I got me one of those.

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It is a Beauty. Made by ASP? I have the 18mm with Tiny Tim booster. Nice work you did.