So after all that... as we all know, the LJ-I has one recommended engine, the C6-3. I don't have an openrocket file for this one yet, but it seems to me a B6-2 OUGHT to be usable here for a great low altitude flight... anyone have an op on this?
Might be a little too draggy to accelerate well enough for a successful flight - but why not give it a try? The Mercury LJ should be light enough that even if the chute opens fairly low it won’t suffer much damage - other than the escape tower, which is probably going to need repaired anywaySo after all that... as we all know, the LJ-I has one recommended engine, the C6-3. I don't have an openrocket file for this one yet, but it seems to me a B6-2 OUGHT to be usable here for a great low altitude flight... anyone have an op on this?
Could've sworn it was on the package card... Maybe I'm imagining...Actually, on their website, Estes recommends B4-4, B6-4, C6-3, C6-5. Where did you see that C6-3 is the only recommended motor?
Of course if I actually read the package... I would've SEEN that it said B6-2, C6-3.Could've sworn it was on the package card... Maybe I'm imagining...
Definitely read through @hcmbanjo's build first!I've just ordered one of these along with a Tazz Gyroc as a couple of interesting build projects for evening entertainment. Perhaps a big challenge for a rookie like me but I love a challenge! I'll post some pics when I start.
Is that the same size as the Merc-Redstone (ST-20)? I made a "flying" NC/capsule so you don't have to crash your pretty "display" capsule. Highly recommendedother than the escape tower, which is probably going to need repaired anyway
This was also a problem with gluing the angled tubes to the Expedition body. I used TBII which curled the ends. Perhaps using CA woulda worked better but could react with the paint. I fixed the curled cardboard with wood filler and sandpaper. Seems to fly straight...BTW: DON'T use white glue on the cardstock covers the way I did.... it's virtually impossible to get them on without them wrinkling where the glue comes in contact. I used as little glue as possible (whatever that means) but you'll be painting them silver... and that shows EVERYTHING if you don't do something about it. Luckily I have bondo and sandpaper.
DeltaVee said: said:BTW: DON'T use white glue on the cardstock covers the way I did.... it's virtually impossible to get them on without them wrinkling where the glue comes in contact. I used as little glue as possible (whatever that means) but you'll be painting them silver... and that shows EVERYTHING if you don't do something about it. Luckily I have bondo and sandpaper.
This was also a problem with gluing the angled tubes to the Expedition body. I used TBII which curled the ends. Perhaps using CA woulda worked better but could react with the paint.
I always used a spent D engine.....no squeezing of clothespin required. The main reason for using a clothes pin or engine casing is to make it easier on yourself to hook up igniters and avoid clips shorting out on blast deflector.Good bunch of launches! Might I suggest a clothespin to support the rocket above the blast deflector?
I did that once. I replaced it with a 8" diameter 1/8" thick stainles disk that I bought on eBay for $10. Stainless can take pretty high temps, ask Elon Musk.Don’t forget burning holes in your launch plate if the engine is siting ontop.
Nearly. Many dimples. Now I use small clothespins. There was a photo posted on Facebook with a 1/4” hole. The old pot lid suggestion sounds interesting.Have you ever burnt a hole. It warps but after maybe 50 flights..no hole. I have at least 4 plates from the cheap starter sets I brought at Walmart. Too bad your not on ease coast, gladly mail you one.
Definitely read through @hcmbanjo's build first!
Here is a photo of motor assembly with the Estes 18mm retainer. It requires about 3/8" to install. The nozzles are dry fit - I omitted one of the large nozzles to show how it fits.Thanks for this. I think when I get to mine I'll at least look hard at the 18mm Estes screw-on retainer. That will necessitate a longer motor tube but in so doing one should be able to get the retainer just aft of the part that appears to be the thrust structure for the smaller nozzles, though the outer part of the retainer would overlap over the larger nozzles a little I think.
Hmmmmmmmmm.......
Here is a photo of motor assembly with the Estes 18mm retainer. It requires about 3/8" to install. The nozzles are dry fit - I omitted one of the large nozzles to show how it fits.
Yes it will be tight. Insert a motor to determine how far back the engine block needs to be glued. The retainer screw should be able to be turned a couple times, about 3 threads before the raised grips hit the nozzles.Snug but it looks workable - thanks for the pix, I had a tough time visualizing the retainer fitting inside all those nozzles.
Yes. I had one stick on the pad recently and it punched a very neat hole through the plate.Have you ever burnt a hole. It warps but after maybe 50 flights..no hole. I have at least 4 plates from the cheap starter sets I brought at Walmart. Too bad your not on ease coast, gladly mail you one.
Nicely done!Here is a photo of motor assembly with the Estes 18mm retainer. It requires about 3/8" to install. The nozzles are dry fit - I omitted one of the large nozzles to show how it fits.View attachment 420207
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