Cherokee E build

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bobbyg23

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So my hobby lobby is back open so I stopped by today. Great prices on engines and rockets. I have been wanting a Cherokee so when I saw this I decided to get it. I have been looking at other threads on trf and I am going to do a bay with the 6" tube. My question is on the bay do you just make the nose cone tight enough to pressure fit or glue it? If it is pressure fit, do I put a cord on it just in case it pops off by accident?
 

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Got home and got it on the workbench. Looks like a fun build.
 

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Making mine a mid break. I used light ply sandwiched together for the plug. Chucked it in my drill to make it perfectly round.
 

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And we have fins. Oh, and launch lugs.
 

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So my hobby lobby is back open so I stopped by today. Great prices on engines and rockets. I have been wanting a Cherokee so when I saw this I decided to get it. I have been looking at other threads on trf and I am going to do a bay with the 6" tube. My question is on the bay do you just make the nose cone tight enough to pressure fit or glue it? If it is pressure fit, do I put a cord on it just in case it pops off by accident?
Great choice! And a good idea (using the short length for a payload bay).

To answer your question... I'd wrap enough tape around the shoulder to hold it in place. You could tether it with a short length of shock cord, but tape is easier . A third option would be to use a clear tape to physically tape the nosecone to the payload bay, but there's always the risk of peeling up paint with that. Gluing it down and it's now a sealed tube (great for buoyancy if it goes for a swim).

The key thing is how much weight are you going to put up there, and how free is its movement? A payload that is heavy and loose, and the shock of the ejection could knock the nosecone off. Light and secure, and friction fit should work fine. If you're worried about pressure differentials popping it off, you can always hide a small vent hole in one of the black bands of the wraps, and rotate that to keep it oriented away from the pretty side for photos.

1590738430865.png

If it helps, you can download my sim (with the zipperless mod) and use that to help you figure your motor options w/and w/o a payload. If you want to try to match the image (above) my markings on the sim are set up at a ratio of 1 pixel = 1/100". So 1/8" = 13 pixels (you can't do a 1/2 pixel). Basically the bottom of the large wrap is at the bottom of the payload bay, the narrow wrap is centered between the top of the tube and the top of the large wrap.
 
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Great choice! And a good idea (using the short length for a payload bay).

To answer your question... I'd wrap enough tape around the shoulder to hold it in place. You could tether it with a short length of shock cord, but tape is easier . A third option would be to use a clear tape to physically tape the nosecone to the payload bay, but there's always the risk of peeling up paint with that. Gluing it down and it's now a sealed tube (great for buoyancy if it goes for a swim).

The key thing is how much weight are you going to put up there, and how free is its movement? A payload that is heavy and loose, and the shock of the ejection could knock the nosecone off. Light and secure, and friction fit should work fine. If you're worried about pressure differentials popping it off, you can always hide a small vent hole in one of the black bands of the wraps, and rotate that to keep it oriented away from the pretty side for photos.

View attachment 418621

If it helps, you can download my sim (with the zipperless mod) and use that to help you figure your motor options w/and w/o a payload. If you want to try to match the image (above) my markings on the sim are set up at a ratio of 1 pixel = 1/100". So 1/8" = 13 pixels (you can't do a 1/2 pixel). Basically the bottom of the large wrap is at the bottom of the payload bay, the narrow wrap is centered between the top of the tube and the top of the large wrap.
Thank you for that.
 
Paint is finished and drying.
 

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Great choice! And a good idea (using the short length for a payload bay).

To answer your question... I'd wrap enough tape around the shoulder to hold it in place. You could tether it with a short length of shock cord, but tape is easier . A third option would be to use a clear tape to physically tape the nosecone to the payload bay, but there's always the risk of peeling up paint with that. Gluing it down and it's now a sealed tube (great for buoyancy if it goes for a swim).

The key thing is how much weight are you going to put up there, and how free is its movement? A payload that is heavy and loose, and the shock of the ejection could knock the nosecone off. Light and secure, and friction fit should work fine. If you're worried about pressure differentials popping it off, you can always hide a small vent hole in one of the black bands of the wraps, and rotate that to keep it oriented away from the pretty side for photos.

View attachment 418621

If it helps, you can download my sim (with the zipperless mod) and use that to help you figure your motor options w/and w/o a payload. If you want to try to match the image (above) my markings on the sim are set up at a ratio of 1 pixel = 1/100". So 1/8" = 13 pixels (you can't do a 1/2 pixel). Basically the bottom of the large wrap is at the bottom of the payload bay, the narrow wrap is centered between the top of the tube and the top of the large wrap.
Honestly the most I plan on putting up there is my flightsketch altimeter. The nosecone is snug already and once the paint is on there it will be a tight fit.
 
Nice job! I like the bay mod. Often I will use tape on the nose cone shoulder to make it snug and a length of kevlar to keep the nose with the air frame in the rare chance it comes loose. Assuming your altimeter is attached to the nose cone having the kevlar is cheap insurance it all comes back together. What is your motor choice for first flight?
 
Nice job! I like the bay mod. Often I will use tape on the nose cone shoulder to make it snug and a length of kevlar to keep the nose with the air frame in the rare chance it comes loose. Assuming your altimeter is attached to the nose cone having the kevlar is cheap insurance it all comes back together. What is your motor choice for first flight?
The nosecone is a really tight fit now with paint. I will put some kevlar in there just to feel better about it. I have a bunch of c11-3's so I might go with that. Otherwise D12. I like lower flights.
 
I use rustoleum 2x. Primer paint and clear.
Typically there's more than one shade of blue... Would you mind sharing what they call the blue you used? Blue is my kryptonite... It only took me 23 years to match the blue for the Estes Magnum Payloader. I don't want that experience again.
 
Typically there's more than one shade of blue... Would you mind sharing what they call the blue you used? Blue is my kryptonite... It only took me 23 years to match the blue for the Estes Magnum Payloader. I don't want that experience again.
Deep blue
 

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I decided to gather some old parts and am able to build the D version from scratch but not to exact specs. AND I don't care for exact! I care for from a distance it is NOT for competition just for me to fly. I will do this till the E version comes in.

LG~
 
I just finished this, and plan to fly it this weekend on an E12. I used a Mylar streamer instead of the parachute, so there's a chance I'll get it back, as long as I can keep my eye on it. Rocksim says 2081' :eek:
 
The Cherokee-E went up today on the aforementioned E12-8, flew out of sight, but a Hawk-eyed club member spotted it coming down. Recovery was maybe 300 yards away, with about 8 mph winds. A chute would have carried it away for sure.
 
Ok I decided to go with the Launch Lugs that are stood off the Body tube....................I found a better launch lug material, let's see who can identify where this came from.
LG~
 

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