grouch
Well-Known Member
I put the final clear coat on my LOC BBX. I also put away all my building stuff back in the bins until the next project strikes. I must say I am very pleased with how the BBX turned out and can wait to fly it.
I flew the Congreve today on an E12, and it was stable for most of the flight. It pitched over at the very end of the burn, so I might make a new nose cone with slightly more nose weight. Overall it flew better than I thought.
One is supposed to make sure the primer coat is thoroughly cured before spraying paint, but jeez!I panted a rocket that has been sitting in primer for 5 (almost 6) years...
If it was Rusto 2x I'll bet it still wouldn't pass the sniff test!One is supposed to make sure the primer coat is thoroughly cured before spraying paint, but jeez!
@Doug Holverson It sure sounds like the Department of Redundancy Department to me.So why did G. Harry write both The Handbook of Model Rocketry and the Model Rocketry Manual? Wouldn't one be redundant? Then there's The New Model Rocketry Manual to make it even more "redundanter"....
Finished the Der Red Max and got a white primer coat on the LOC starfighter. View attachment 413501View attachment 413502
If the wife and I are having a disagreement, I just open a can of Imron in the basement.Priming part 3 going on today on Zyphyr... Had worked a lot this last week on sanding and getting the issues worked. Hope today goes well as I’m trying to get color on this week. Moved from basement to garage to tone down the smell for family.. LOL, they do not like the smell of Primer and Paint as I do!!!
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Nice downscale. Wonder if anyone's working on an R/C glider upscale with a Trajector/Interceptor nose cone?Made progress on my Estes Low Boom SST 73% downscale.
I’m working on an upscale - but don’t plan to try and glide it.Nice downscale. Wonder if anyone's working on an R/C glider upscale with a Trajector/Interceptor nose cone?
Me as well, but not a glider, I am scaling the Interceptor E parts to the T204 airframe from BMS as its easier to get, cheaper, and will likely be around longer than the PSII 2" stuff. The upscale is about 101.5% and I am printing the tailcone as a test.I’m working on an upscale - but don’t plan to try and glide it.
Rich, is that mylar covering fin/cloth sandwich in picture number three? No vacuum bag?SBR/Fusion Thor fins are in the bag for side 1. Each side of the fin will get one layer each of 7oz fiberglass cloth and a layer of 5 or 6oz Carbon Fiber 2x2 twill from Soller Composites. Current vacuum pressure is at 29-30" Hg, I will leave them at that pressure for 5 hours then trim the excess turn them over and repeat.
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The stack in order is 1)Sheet of particle board with edges rounded 1/8" radius, then covered with mylar sheet (parchement paper works too, its just to keep from having a wood to wood possible bond), fins were stuck to it using a loop of green masking tape (on bottom of fin), epoxy applied to top surface, fiberglass laid down and more epoxy added, then carbon laid down and a bit more epoxy added, then a layer of polyester or nylon peel ply (blue cloth like stuff), then cotton quilt batting as a breather (its cheap and easy to get a JoAnn's Fabrics) and it absorbs the excess resin, the whole stack on the board is put into a vacuum bag made of a tubular material (from ACP Composites iirc) and the blue strips at each end of the bag are a channel (kind of like a pvc pipe with a slot cut in it that another one snaps into to seal the ends, also from ACP Composites), ACP calls them Quick Locks, the bags are nylon, all of the Vac Bagging stuff came from ACP Composites. I no longer use mylar as a layer on the laminate stack as the peel ply pulls off and while its textured another thin layer of epoxy makes it clear again easy, even sanding the cured epoxy wont harm a clear finish as long as another coat is put over it. I am going to wait until tomorrow to do the second side of the fins so I can route the holes in the fins out so I dont loose them when the other side gets covered.Rich, is that mylar covering fin/cloth sandwich in picture number three? No vacuum bag?
Questions because my LaserLOC minimum diameter kit came with 4oz cloth to laminate the fins tip to tip. Of course, only minimum instructions...
Thanks for the explanation. Very helpful.The stack in order is 1)Sheet of particle board with edges rounded 1/8" radius, then covered with mylar sheet (parchement paper works too, its just to keep from having a wood to wood possible bond), fins were stuck to it using a loop of green masking tape (on bottom of fin), epoxy applied to top surface, fiberglass laid down and more epoxy added, then carbon laid down and a bit more epoxy added, then a layer of polyester or nylon peel ply (blue cloth like stuff), then cotton quilt batting as a breather (its cheap and easy to get a JoAnn's Fabrics) and it absorbs the excess resin, the whole stack on the board is put into a vacuum bag made of a tubular material (from ACP Composites iirc) and the blue strips at each end of the bag are a channel (kind of like a pvc pipe with a slot cut in it that another one snaps into to seal the ends, also from ACP Composites), ACP calls them Quick Locks, the bags are nylon, all of the Vac Bagging stuff came from ACP Composites. I no longer use mylar as a layer on the laminate stack as the peel ply pulls off and while its textured another thin layer of epoxy makes it clear again easy, even sanding the cured epoxy wont harm a clear finish as long as another coat is put over it. I am going to wait until tomorrow to do the second side of the fins so I can route the holes in the fins out so I dont loose them when the other side gets covered.
Edit: Pict 3 yes that is actually Drafting Film (Mylarish...from Hobby Lobby) laid down as a anti stick layer between the board and the fins (fins are stuck to it temporarily by a loop of green masking tape on bottom, its a bear if things are moving around while trying to wet out the cloth's.
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