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A filament snarl.

IMG_1548.jpg

This wasn’t my weekend for printing. I finally tracked down an apparent adhesion problem to a plugged Bowden tube. The last quarter inch was packed full. Memo to me: when I have to start turning the speed down, check the tube.

This is the second time the Bowden has plugged in the year or so I’ve been printing. I don’t know why it happens, but I suspect it’s related to times when I get the bed height wrong and plaster a thin sheet of filament to the bed.

So I swapped over to a Capricorn tube I had waiting for a special occasion and ran my calibration square to retune speed and flow. Aces. About 30 hours into a a 4 day Talos interstage, I come home from the cidery to find the mess above. The extruder side of the Bowden had popped its fitting. It wouldn’t hold anymore, but luckily I had a spare.

<sigh>
 
A filament snarl.
This is the second time the Bowden has plugged in the year or so I’ve been printing. I don’t know why it happens, but I suspect it’s related to times when I get the bed height wrong and plaster a thin sheet of filament to the bed.

Looks like you have a creality printer. Are you using the stock hotend? If so then I'd suggest you try the following:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831

I'll be honest, I saw people all over several of the Facebook 3D printing groups I'm in blindly recommending this as the solution to everything as if it was magic pixie dust. Even things that were not related to hotend problems. It made me very skeptical. However I recently experienced a clogged nozzle for the same reasons you did. If there is any gap between the end of your Bowden tube and the nozzle then you are eventually going to get a clogged nozzle if you're using the stock Creality hotend. After about 5 months of printing it happened to me. I installed this "hotend fix" and I've been running beautifully for the last several weeks. This may not be your cause but it's certainly one of the reasons for getting a clogged nozzle.
 
Actually no need for that part. Just remove the Bowden connector at the hot end and pull out the tube enough so that it will touch the nozzle just as you are tightening the last thread on the connector. That way it is pressed onto the nozzle. Mine is printing away with no leaks, a lot less than stock config.
Oh, and I am printing the last section of a Saturn V 1st stage.
 
Actually no need for that part. Just remove the Bowden connector at the hot end and pull out the tube enough so that it will touch the nozzle just as you are tightening the last thread on the connector. That way it is pressed onto the nozzle. Mine is printing away with no leaks, a lot less than stock config.
Oh, and I am printing the last section of a Saturn V 1st stage.
That's just about exactly how I was assembling my hotend before I had the problem too. The difference was I left the nozzle about one turn loose, pressed the Bowden down right against the nozzle and then tightened the nozzle the last turn. Yes this works well except for one thing, you are relying on the pneumatic fitting to maintain a solid grip on the Bowden tube to ensure it remains pressed tightly against the nozzle. That is the weak link. You may not have experienced this failure yet and I hope you never do but many, many people with stock Creality hotends have. Doing the mod, which only requires a couple parts you can print yourself, removes this weak link from the equation. It uses the threads from the fitting to hold a section of Bowden tube against the nozzle. I trust threads way more than a few barbs. But that's just my opinion, you can do whatever you want.
 
Have a roll of TPU that I purchased for another project and thought I'd give it a go to make disposable ejection end caps. After a few adjustments on size, I got them fitting nicely. Way better than tape.

TPU Caps.jpg
 
Also printed a very nice fin jig. The design was done in Fusion360 and can be changed easily for any configuration. Took some time to print but well worth the results.

Fin Jig.jpg
 
Excellent. Now, the 3DP will be just a framework. So what do u use for the sheet paper or fabric? I would be interested to see the shape. I have trouble with most N95’s. I get pressure on my nose and can’t breathe easily
 
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Not sure about 3D printed masks. Many are not recommending due to it not achieving proper seal. I am planning on trying one printed in TPU. For sure 3D printed Face shields work really well though
 
my interpretation of the research paper from southern neutron on boost glider hooks.
And 3DP fin cans for 13mm motors with couplers instead of step offs to keep the major parts as shells for lightest weight for competition.
having trouble getting pix to post.
 

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my interpretation of the research paper from southern neutron on boost glider hooks.
And 3DP fin cans for 13mm motors with couplers instead of step offs to keep the major parts as shells for lightest weight for competition.
having trouble getting pix to post.
upload_2020-3-26_13-28-59.jpeg
upload_2020-3-26_13-29-43.jpeg
 
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