Eggtimer Quantum

Onebadhawk
madcow rocketry
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Oh well. Celebration was a little premature. Hooked up some e-matches to conduct a deployment test and at first it looked good. Connected to the Quantum and brought up the test page. Entered the validation code to test the drogue channel, but didn't get a countdown. Exited everything and now I can't connect to the Quantum anymore.
(Sigh) Maybe after the holidays I will order another kit and start over.
 
Don't give up! It's likely a solder connection somewhere. This is where a close inspection of your solder joints is important. Solder should be nice a shiny where you want it, and shouldn't be anywhere else (bridging).
 
No, don't give up!

If possible, post a couple of high resolution images of both sides of the Quantum. Many pairs of eyes might help out here. Try to get as much solder joint detail, particularly around the wifi module.
 
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If you don't have one, you need to get a 10x jeweler's loupe to inspect the solder joints. You'll find things that you won't find with a 3x magnifier.

Most deployment/continuity issues with the Quantum (and Eggtimer Classic, Quark, and TRS too) are optoisolator issues. It's VERY easy to get solder on top of the leads and miss the pads on the PC board.

Eggtimer Cris
 
Here's some pix of the board. It still beeps at power up, and the LED on the WiFi module flashes once, but my phone no longer recognizes it.IMG_20191224_210519.jpg IMG_20191224_210540.jpg
 
tOD said:
Here's some pix of the board. It still beeps at power up, and the LED on the WiFi module flashes once, but my phone no longer recognizes it.View attachment 401679 View attachment 401680
Click to expand...

The good news is that I did not see anything obvious. It's hard to tell for sure due to glare and shadows, but there were a few areas that I might recommend checking closer and potentially touching up. For touching up an existing solder joint, as someone previously mentioned use the iron on the pin/pad and heat the existing solder joint up so that it the solder is molten. Then apply a small amount of additional solder. Remove the solder, then remove the iron from the joint and allow things to cool. Be careful to not overheat the component you're soldering or end up with a solder "blob" (how's that for a technical term!), as that is something you really don't want. My philosophy of soldering is that I do not want to see any naked pad area. I noticed some on the top-side of your WiFi module. I typically will ensure that the entire pad is covered with solder. Likely they're fine, but it would eliminate any potential gotchas of a solder joint that is iffy.

IMG_20191224_210519.jpg IMG_20191224_210540.jpg
 
tOD said:
Here's some pix of the board. It still beeps at power up, and the LED on the WiFi module flashes once, but my phone no longer recognizes it.
Click to expand...

Have you tried another phone, ipad, laptop or desktop PC? You did mention earlier that the connection issue appears to be when you're at home - have you tried it again away from home? Additionally, I notice in your previous wifi web page image that you are using firmware version 1.06Q - there is now a version 1.07A. Try re-flashing with the new firmware. I'm not suggesting that this is your problem, but it's worth a try.

g.pitts said:
The good news is that I did not see anything obvious. It's hard to tell for sure due to glare and shadows, but there were a few areas that I might recommend checking closer and potentially touching up. For touching up an existing solder joint, as someone previously mentioned use the iron on the pin/pad and heat the existing solder joint up so that it the solder is molten. Then apply a small amount of additional solder. Remove the solder, then remove the iron from the joint and allow things to cool. Be careful to not overheat the component you're soldering or end up with a solder "blob" (how's that for a technical term!), as that is something you really don't want. My philosophy of soldering is that I do not want to see any naked pad area. I noticed some on the top-side of your WiFi module. I typically will ensure that the entire pad is covered with solder. Likely they're fine, but it would eliminate any potential gotchas of a solder joint that is iffy.
Click to expand...

I agree with this. There are quite a few solder joints that don't appear to have flowed very well and might not be solid connections. However, as mentioned above, it is difficult to be really certain due to the lighting shadows and glare off some connections in the images.

As Cris mentioned, you will benefit from viewing these joints with a higher magnification.
 
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Ok. I'll check the directions on updating the firmware, I have a cable.
Meanwhile last night I rebooted my phone and I'm now able to connect to the Quantum again. Once it was connected I opened an incognito tab in Firefox and was able to load the test page. Now I need to remount this thing in my AV bay and carry on with the deployment test. My patience is being sorely tested, but I will soldier on.
 
tOD said:
Ok. I'll check the directions on updating the firmware, I have a cable.
Meanwhile last night I rebooted my phone and I'm now able to connect to the Quantum again. Once it was connected I opened an incognito tab in Firefox and was able to load the test page. Now I need to remount this thing in my AV bay and carry on with the deployment test. My patience is being sorely tested, but I will soldier on.
Click to expand...

Maybe that should be I will solder on. ;)
 
Here's the latest episode in the continuing story of the Quantum. I had it working and performed a test with real e-matches and both channels worked. I was pretty psyched and planned a full deployment test with live charges. Since then I haven't been able to connect to the device again. So. I ordered another one and I'm going to start on it using the Hakko FX888 soldering station one of my daughters bought me for my birthday. Unboxed it and installed a T18C-08 tip. gpitts had recommended a tip temperature of 600-650 so I'm going to set up for that and hack away at this thing. Meanwhile I ordered another E-bay kit from SMT designs and if I don't have any luck with the new Quantum I've got an RRC2+ from MissileWorks that I'll be using along with a Quark(which is working). I want to fly the rocket at Red Glare in April, and time is running out.
 

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tOD said:
Here's the latest episode in the continuing story of the Quantum. I had it working and performed a test with real e-matches and both channels worked. I was pretty psyched and planned a full deployment test with live charges. Since then I haven't been able to connect to the device again. So. I ordered another one and I'm going to start on it using the Hakko FX888 soldering station one of my daughters bought me for my birthday. Unboxed it and installed a T18C-08 tip. gpitts had recommended a tip temperature of 600-650 so I'm going to set up for that and hack away at this thing. Meanwhile I ordered another E-bay kit from SMT designs and if I don't have any luck with the new Quantum I've got an RRC2+ from MissileWorks that I'll be using along with a Quark(which is working). I want to fly the rocket at Red Glare in April, and time is running out.
Click to expand...
Nice looking setup. I keep my iron between 635 and 650 Fahrenheit. The higher temperature works well for soldering connectors with significant thermal mass. The lower temperature works well for everything else.

Best of luck to you on this build!
 
Thanks. I'll dial the temp back a little. This is much better than the pencil iron I was using. Here's the progress so far. I haven't made joints this nice since '72:ghosty:
 

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Might have been a case of "Get the right tool for the job", but my second Quantum seems to be working. I'll try reworking the original again with the new soldering station and see if I can get it to work.IMG_20200217_121610.jpg IMG_20200217_121610.jpg
 

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I'm glad it's in an SMT Designs e-bay that has the slide switches to interrupt power to the altimeters. It's compliant with the rules bomb that Tripoli just dropped.
 
I would suggest that you break the DEPLOYMENT power, not the power to the Quantum itself. Slide switches can bounce, so that minimizes the effect of the bouncing... it's less likely to be an issue on the way "down".
 
cerving said:
I would suggest that you break the DEPLOYMENT power, not the power to the Quantum itself. Slide switches can bounce, so that minimizes the effect of the bouncing... it's less likely to be an issue on the way "down".
Click to expand...
SMT's slide switch configuration uses a screw to push against a momentary closed slide switch, to lock it closed, I have a hard time seeing how it can bounce. However a regular slide switch with nothing to lock it in the on position I can totally see bouncing being possible.
 
rharshberger said:
SMT's slide switch configuration uses a screw to push against a momentary closed slide switch, to lock it closed, I have a hard time seeing how it can bounce. However a regular slide switch with nothing to lock it in the on position I can totally see bouncing being possible.
Click to expand...

I agree, the SMT design makes it unlikely, but If you look at the amount of force required to open a slide switch and the weight of the actuator, you’ll find that it takes a lot of acceleration to make them bounce in any case. Plus, most commercial switches have certain amount of hysteresis built into them to prevent opening even if the actuator bounces a small amount.
The NKK CS slide switches have a 50 gee force rating.
 
rharshberger said:
SMT's slide switch configuration uses a screw to push against a momentary closed slide switch, to lock it closed, I have a hard time seeing how it can bounce. However a regular slide switch with nothing to lock it in the on position I can totally see bouncing being possible.
Click to expand...
I would agree, however, that interrupting power between the battery and the igniters is the safest way to go. It also seems like it would be the most difficult to implement, especially with redundant charges. Seem like you would need 4 sets of contacts
I have used the SMT Designs 38mm bay without any problems. I'm sure there are many flying successfully.
 
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tOD said:
I would agree, however, that interrupting power between the battery and the igniters is the safest way to go. It also seems like it would be the most difficult to implement, especially with redundant charges. Seem like you would need 4 sets of contacts.
Click to expand...
Not necessarily, almost all deployment computers either have a battery common to the igniters (the logical place to add a single break) or power to the deployment circuitry that can easily be disconnected (most Eggtimer altimeters). One "switch" per altimeter cuts the power.
 
Had a little time to go over a few of the solder joints on the original Quantum and it seems to be working again. I'm going to re-re-re-re-install it in the AV bay and see if I can do a deployment test this weekend. We're supposed to have nice weather.
 
I used the original Quantum to do a deployment test today. 3" Wildman Darkstar, 1.8g FFFFg. Last night ordered a CTI 54mm J210 Classic for the maiden flight. Quantum triggers drogue at nose over, main at 600. Quark backup; nose over+1, main at 500. About 9lbs. without the motor. ThrustCurve estimates about 3600'. I've got a launch opportunity coming up on 3/15. May wait for Red Glare in April to fly on a bigger field.IMG_20200223_125432.jpg
 
markg said:
I tried connecting to a Quantum today with my new phone, a Pixel 3. After a bit of fussing around I found that I had to go into settings and turn off mobile data before it would show the Quantum page. My Galaxy S8 did not need me to do this. Both Firefox and Chrome were unable to show the Quantum page until I turned off mobile data.
Click to expand...

Prepping to fly for the first time this year and couldn't get my pixel 7 to connect to any eggtimer stuff. Searched around a bit on the internet before coming here and searching 'pixel quantum' and found the answer right away :p
 

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