Refit USS ATLANTIS build

[JJSR]

Though I've already started this kit. I thought I'd share the build. It's a COOL looking rocket for sure, let's see if I can build it to fly. I'm some what apprehensive about working with the vac-form parts.


Here's where I'm at with the kit so far,
I have the motor mount and shock cord glued in. Pylon slots cut, side decks panels on, antenna dowel glued.

I'm gluing the Side decks on now. I like to drill into parts like these thinking it helps to hold them on.

 

[neil_w]

Hey Joe, nice to have you back! How's everything going? Rad Rocks launches not the same without you there...

Always have loved the Atlantis design. Looking forward to this.

 

[mbeels]

It's a COOL looking rocket for sure, let's see if I can build it to fly.

Looks like a fun to build kit as well!

 

[JJSR]

Hey, hi Neil, it's going good. We're pretty much settled in.
Work is work
Just better views here lol

 

[JJSR]

Last nights work, glued the side decks onto the side deck panels. I kept these back a hair, thinking to sand them to a angle/point later.
Also the belly fin dowel, I wrapped some fine sandpaper around the dowel and sanded a slight grove in the top of the belly fin giving it a little more glue area.







I'm only going to get this antenna on tonight. (tip of pencil)

 

[dpower]

Haven't seen a thread about this kit in a long time - it's a great looking rocket, Sirius Kits are really high quality. Dave @ Sirius is really good about answering emails if you have any questions about the kit.

 

[JJSR]

Ok found time to take another bite out of this kit. I'm not liking the antenna, seems like it could use something else.



On to the pylons, again I made some holes in the root edge for the glue.
I found if I hang the aft end off the table with a piece of balsa (from the scrap) under the antenna. It seems to hold the pylon in the vertical position we want.

 

[BBowmaster]

Watching this carefully. I recently finished my morerockets.com version of the original Atlantis. I’ve been looking at the Sirius refit version for years but I’ve been afraid of the vac-formed parts (never had success with those when I was a teen in the 70s).

 

[Jim Hinton]

Hi Folks;
I recently built this kit. I am intrigued to see if Joe has the same issues with the 'engines' that I did. I was able to assemble it, but I had to use some serious persuasion on the vacuform engine parts.

Jim

 

[JJSR]

To be honest, I'm dreading the vacuform parts also.

 

[Jim Hinton]

To be honest, I'm dreading the vacuform parts also.

Hi Joe;

I've built a few of the other Sirius kits, most of their vacuform parts are no big deal. They are pretty well molded and generally fit without a lot of persuasion. The engines on the Atlantis are formed around two pieces of BT-5 tube. Great idea from the standpoint of strength. I found the vacuform shells to be a little too small to cover the BT-5 tubes. That left a fairly obnoxious gap at the seam. I resolved the issue by gluing in thin strip styrene (.010 x .25 as I recall) to close the gap. I dressed the edges with Tamiya's model putty. A couple of applications and sanding and it came out fine. I hope your kit fits better than mine did, but if not, the issue can certainly be resolved. I have flown the rocket twice, It flew pretty well on an E 30-4. It wants to 'corkscrew' on ascent. It weathercocked pretty badly on an E 15 -4. I added no nose weight, it doesn't seem to need it.

Jim

 

[JJSR]

Some progress has been made today.
I got the main side decks on, found that I missed fillets on the engine pylons. It's a really tight squeeze between pylons and the main side decks. I think I can get some epoxy in there using the corner of a baggie like piping a cake.




Conduit dowels went nicely, I sanded a slight flat side to them for gluing. Rounded the ends over for a better look to them.

Now time for the top deck and bridge.
I have a question, what glue would work better on the bridge??

 

[Jim Hinton]

Some progress has been made today.
I got the main side decks on, found that I missed fillets on the engine pylons. It's a really tight squeeze between pylons and the main side decks. I think I can get some epoxy in there using the corner of a baggie like piping a cake.

View attachment 403759
View attachment 403761

Conduit dowels went nicely, I sanded a slight flat side to them for gluing. Rounded the ends over for a better look to them.
View attachment 403760
Now time for the top deck and bridge.
I have a question, what glue would work better on the bridge??
View attachment 403762
View attachment 403763

Hi Joe;

All of those glues will work. I would lean towards the 'tacky' type white glue on the right. That produces a flexible bond, unlikely to fail in that application. Q-tips and 'cottontail' swabs can be real handy for fillets in tight areas. It looks like you are progressing very nicely. It's already looking good. Have fun!

Jim

 

[JJSR]

Hey guys, here's an update
Did all the filets on the
pylons, main side decks, conduits, belly fin.
This morning I glued on the top deck
View attachment 404533

 

[JJSR]

As I'm reading up on the next few steps, I find there's no instructions on cutting or gluing the vacform parts.
Also seems the vacform parts are mis- molded


I think I'll clean up these curled edges.
Then glue the halves together leaving the edges untrimmed. Keeping the longer tabs I hope will allow me to get a better glue joint.

 

[neil_w]

Looking good Joe. That’s quite a model...

 

[JJSR]

I think with a couple of clamps, 4 pieces of wood I can slather some plastic weld on there and just trim it up after. No doubt there will be sanding lots of sanding,,,,

 

[JJSR]

Here are a few pictures of what she looks like so far

Aft

Top

Bottom

 

[Jim Hinton]

Hi Joe;

The molding on the engine shells is problematic. Leave an excess of plastic until shells are bonded together. The fit at the seam is still pretty tough. Be ready to lay in some strip plastic over the seam.

Jim

 

[JJSR]

Thanks for the heads up Jim.

Originally I was going to use a couple piece's of wood. (sandwich stile) but I found these paper clamps that go right up to the edge where the halves meet.
Seemed to be the better option.
We'll see how well it'll work out. I do half at a time long ways, then mess with the short ends.

 

[BBowmaster]

Goodness that’s a lot of clamps. Now I’m seriously scared of this kit.

 

[JJSR]

It's not so bad, you could probably get away with two paint sticks and 2 clamps.

 

[Jim Hinton]

Hi Joe;

I clamped mine in a similar method. The clamps and paint stick method that you had mentioned. They tend to come out quite strong, the seam jerked me around, but that can be solved as well.

Jim

 

[JJSR]

Okay, lesson learned,,,,,,,,
Don't spill the plastic weld on your cutting mat.

 

[JJSR]

So far, NOT so good,,
Well, really, it turned out a little better than I thought! Once I removed the clamps, I was expecting the glue to have missed some spots.
But to my surprize, not very much of it didn't adhere.



Above is fresh out of the clamps, below is after I used scissors to cut off about 1/4 inch of the mold and sanded. (I have a few other pictures that I can't load cause of file size)



Lower engine sanded

 

[neil_w]

Looks good from here.

I have to say, the rest of the build, all that woodwork, looks like fun. These engine pods... well maybe "fun" isn't the right word.

 

[Jim Hinton]

Hi Joe;

That's looking really good. Time to start sanding. If you get tempted to break out power tools, stop and take a break. I know of no good way to speed this process up. It looks like a real clean bond. Proceed patiently.

Jim

 

[JJSR]

I don't think I'll sand any more off, there just isn't any more "meat on that bone". I don't want to sand through and have to repair it. it's not molded at a 90* angle it has a radius to it, so getting the halves glued close enough together as not to have a lip is impossible...



so these detail rails are not going on her



I wouldn't know how to get it smooth enough ?????

 

[Jim Hinton]

Hi Joe;

This is definitely a matter of 'builder's choice'. Sure, you can get all of the lip sanded off, and due to the nature of the part and the molding, there will be voids left. I took mine down all the way to a smooth flow between the parts and the seam line. I had many voids to cover and fill as a result. I mounted the detail rails, and they actually look like they belong once the model is painted and finished. From what I have seen, they will have no effect on flight. I thought that mine might have a stability issue, but these models seem to be a long way from tail heavy. Mine needs a pretty high average thrust to avoid weather cocking.

Jim

 

[JJSR]

Jim it'd be great to see a picture or 2 of your refit engine pods. The more I look at it the more I'm considering flattening out
(running a band around) the pods.