DAllen
Well-Known Member
Yes it’s an unreleased LOC Precision Kit. Made with their newer flexible phenolic tubing. I stand on the fins for fun.
WANT
Yes it’s an unreleased LOC Precision Kit. Made with their newer flexible phenolic tubing. I stand on the fins for fun.
Ditto thatWANT
I used a piece of maple for the rear rail guide with the nut recessed and epoxied into the back of it. The forward rail guide is screwed into the FCR. I'm not sure how far apart these rail guides need to be, but for a 80" rocket they look too close together. Right now they are 15-1/2" apart.
Yes it’s an unreleased LOC Precision Kit. Made with their newer flexible phenolic tubing. I stand on the fins for fun.
WANT
Ditto that
I guess that I should dig out my old Yank 4" IRIS then... Since all the pictures of it in the Yank gallery disappeared with the changeover.
It was a good flier. Handled any K that I could put in it. I didn't glass it, just foamed the fin can.
Ok, good. I'll leave it as is.It'll be fine.
My old (now retired) PML Endeavour had 14" between the buttons on ~70" length. Always flew great.
If you're putting out the main chute at apogee with motor eject, then using the CR to reef it, you don't generally need shear pins on the NC. Just ensure the NC is a snug fit.Well, almost 2 years have went by. Going to finally get the Iris finished up and get my level 1 cert soon.
I'm looking for recommendations on what motor to use. I would like to keep the altitude under 2,000ft. I want to use a motor ejection charge, and I'll probably use a chute release system at lower altitude.
Do you recommend using shear pins?
Thanks in advance.
I am building the LOC 4" Goblin using the included motor retention and adapters. However the 38mm adapter screw holes for the clips causes the screws to press against and indent the aft centering ring. Maybe shorter screws is the solution?Here is my Mega Magg with the combo Dave is talking about. This is how the motor retention is used on the 4” IRIS. No need to buy anything unless you want to simply change how it looks. This example used the retention on a Aerotech 75mm casing. The other side shows how the “T-Nut” peeks through the hole and where the screw mounts the “Z-Clip”. I also have a 4” IRIS I need to complete. Of course to note the 4” IRIS is 54mm with the ability to adapt down to 38mm and 29mm. Let me know if you need any questions answered on any LOC builds. #theLOCmafia
I also built the 4" Goblin. I added a plywood spacer to fill the gap caused by the 'T' nuts. Then good size epoxy fillets. The joint between the MMT and the rear ply disk takes the entire motor thrust.I am building the LOC 4" Goblin using the included motor retention and adapters. However the 38mm adapter screw holes for the clips causes the screws to press against and indent the aft centering ring. Maybe shorter screws is the solution?
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