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jqavins said:
Before I try one I've got to get one of these. Is anybody else using them?
Click to expand...

Yes.

Everytime - though they aren't a cure-all. Mine has some chromatic aberration around the edges, so sometimes I have to move it out of the way to get a clearer view, even if smaller.
 
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Greg Furtman said:
I built an Eggtimer TRS/GPS. It was challenging! Eggtimer rates is as 5/5 in difficulty. It would have driven me nuts if not for the invention of the self squeezing tweezer. ;)
Click to expand...

I've done a TRS, too. I don't recall it being as frustrating (to me) as a Quark. But I may be blocking the memory, because it 'functioned' - but the voltage regulator got way too hot after a few minutes. Never did find the problem. Nor fly it.

I'd wish for a Proton TRS - except I kinda like putting the eggFinder in the nosecone and the eggParticle in a mid-body avbay.
I do fantasize about a little eggGluon network, though. Being able to datalog the GPS, or radio telemeter the baro-altitude and maybe the flight state (waiting for launch to landed) using devices I already have. (@cerving )
 
jqavins said:
Before I try one I've got to get one of these. Is anybody else using them?
6azmngk5d_1012764.jpg
Click to expand...

I've been thinking about getting a LED one of these.
 
With more practice you get better at it. I now find 0603 parts (1.5mmx0.75mm) easy to solder. The next step down is 0402 (1mmx0.5mm) and they are a real pain. Not only are they small, but the surface-mount pads on the PCB are the same size as the component, with no overhang. That stops tombstoning of the parts when reflow soldering, but means you can't get an iron onto the pad and the component at the same time :(. Even soldering fine-pitch (0.5mm) integrated circuits is easier than those parts IMHO.

Eggfinder products have been designed with hand assembly in mind. Thanks Cris :).
 
Inspecting the 18/20 case I just got. Feels like an oversized AA battery.

Far cry from the Last case I bought that's hanging out in the corner

20191008_181214.jpg
 
I'm in the middle of resin printing recreations for the old Centuri plastic reducers and that ST-13 coupler with the imitation latches. Quirkily, they're in clear resin because that's all I have so far. I hope to have something to upload to Thingiverse in a few days.

OT: that stupid poll ad is starting at me from the sidebar again. Why don't they just draw horns, goatee, scars, and nerd glasses on that politician?
 
I have one that I use that has a fluorescent lamp. I would recommend finding one with and LED light if you can. The fluorescent ones do get hot after a couple of hours.

It works fine of 1206 components. I can solder components down to 0603 with it. Smaller than that you really need a stereo microscope. I can solder down to 0201 sized components that way.
 
jqavins said:
Before I try one I've got to get one of these. Is anybody else using them?
6azmngk5d_1012764.jpg
Click to expand...
Looks similar to the one I have. It's an LED model I got at Home Depot. I've been able to do a Quark and a Mini+ GPS LCD receiver and now the Quantum with it.
 
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tOD said:
Looks similar to the one I have. It's an LED model I got at Home Depot. I've been able to do a Quark and a Mini+ GPS LCD receiver and now the Quantum with it.
Click to expand...

So I've been looking at LED Magnifying lights online. They seen to fall into 2 optical groups, 1.75x 3 diopter and 2.25x 5 diopter. What do people have or recommend?
 
I just started the Anycubic Photon on printing out a recreation of the old Centuri PSR1620. It's the longest running and biggest print that I attempted yet.

Now up to the Farm to take my Mom over to Onawa to get some forms and groceries....
 
Here they are so far soaking in a re-purposed cleaner. The green ones were done on the OMG printer and the clear ones were done on my machine.

cleaner.jpg
 
Greg Furtman said:
So I've been looking at LED Magnifying lights online. They seen to fall into 2 optical groups, 1.75x 3 diopter and 2.25x 5 diopter. What do people have or recommend?
Click to expand...
The one I posted is the latter. I'd go with that or more if I can find it, but then my eyes are nearly 56 years old and were really bad to start with, so I need all the help I can get. I will also look for the brightest light that doesn't wash out contrast, because that means a smaller pupil, and as any photographer can tell you, a smaller pupil (higher F number) mitigates a multitude of sins.
 
Update. I flipped over the two pieces that were too tall for the cleaner to clean the other ends. The ends now exposed to air started fraying. It seems this resin printing noob has some more to learn. So what is the lesson here?
 
Doug, I suspect that may be an issue with the resin that you have. There are quite a few different kinds out there. Check out Sirya Blu. Lots of people with Photons seem to like it for its ease of printing and strength. I've only done one print with it thus far, but it seems really good.

I've been working with my Anycubic Photon for about a month now. There's a lot of trial and error involved. Are you a member of the facebook group? Most people there are printing miniature figurines and jewelry, which I couldn't care less about, but there is a wealth of knowledge there.
 
I Googled a little and now thinking that the items should have been totally submerged and I should have left them in there for only three minutes.

I'm going to try to bum an egg timer off Mom.
 
jqavins said:
The one I posted is the latter. I'd go with that or more if I can find it, but then my eyes are nearly 56 years old and were really bad to start with, so I need all the help I can get. I will also look for the brightest light that doesn't wash out contrast, because that means a smaller pupil, and as any photographer can tell you, a smaller pupil (higher F number) mitigates a multitude of sins.
Click to expand...

You're only 56? Pup. ;)
 

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