BTW, Babar is the Grand Puba of staging so maybe he'll chime in here too
-Bob
Wow, THANKS!
JCRL, jumping to multistage for your first scratch build is quite a leap (for me I built 10 or more single stages before I tried it) but we are here to help.
My ONLY experience with staging is black powder to black powder NON-ELECTRONIC staging. It is a great technique, and I have seen it work successfully up to over 50 inches of gap.
I recommend you start with minimum diameter staging. I like 18 mm engine to 18 mm engine, but 13 to 13 is fine. 24 to 24 is a little bit more than I think you want to chew at this stage.
Let's say 18 to 18, which will be BT-20 to BT-20.
Once you have decided not to tape your motors but have some separation, you are into "gap staging."
Black powder booster motors (0 delay motors, RED ink on Estes Engines, do NOT use anything but a 0 delay motor for black powder staging) have a nozzle, propellant, and nothing else. No delay charge, no clay cap at the front. Propellant burns from back (nozzle) to front. When it burns all the way to the front, there is no cap, so the flame instead of going out the nozzle goes forward toward the nose.
Research has shown (I can't find the article, but the "particle theory" that burning propellant particles are heaved up the nozzle of the sustainer has been debunked) that it is the light/heat from the flame that "shines" through the sustainer nozzle and lights the motor. This kind of makes sense, because the nozzle is basically a "cup" shape, and there is no way to get "flow" of particles INTO the nozzle.
The first challenge is that when the booster motor blows forward, it creates a pressure wave. Probably NOT as high a wave as a standard engine ejection charge, but still has some force. The trick is to allow these hot gases to travel forward to your sustainer nozzle, literally "light" the powder at the apex of the nozzle, WITHOUT prematurely separating the booster and sustainer BEFORE the sustainer motor ignites.
I use a standard paper hole punch, and punch at least two and no more than three vent holes in the forward end of the booster tube. I go down as far as the punch will allow, which is about 1.5 centimeters. Whether two or three, holes are equidistant so the "venting" will not "push" the rocket to one side or the other.
I put an expended motor casing in the forward end of the booster until I JUST see the cardboard start to show up at the holes (so about 1.5 cm.) I mark the casing where it sticks out from the tube. This mark tells me how far up to put the engine block in the SUSTAINER. I use the casing to place the engine block in the sustainer, now when I load a motor in the sustainer it sticks out the back about 1.5 cm, EXACTLY where I want it so the motor is just forward of (and not blocking) the vent holes.
The sustainer motor is friction fit. You can set up the booster how ever you want (most of my rockets are friction fit, or don't use motor mounts at all, but that's another thread)
The other PROBLEM with gap staging is the length of the booster. Non-gap stage rockets have very SHORT boosters (basically about the length of the motor!). With the big fins, they tumble recover fairly well (better on grass than pavement, but you deal with what you have.) IF the booster is much longer, it tends to be stable AFTER separation. This is a BAD thing because then the booster orients nose down and comes in ballistic, aka lawn dart or core sample (or accordion, if you have pavement to land on.)
So to start with, I would go with a short gap, maybe two or three inches. If you want to go longer than that, you have come up with a way of putting a recovery device on the booster. It is do-able (lots of ways to do it) but it is tricky.
After you try a minimum diameter stager, if you want to go non-minimum diameter, PM me maybe I will do a thread on that.
Hope you get two straight trails!