3D Printing New 3D Build Parts

[gorillamotors]

I am looking at building a 450-600mm x 450-600mm 3D printer. I want to be able to print PEEK filaments which requires an extruder temp from 370-410C and a bed temp of 120-180C.

What extruder can handle those temps?
Is there a list of the best of the best components for such a build?

 

[rtuinila]

An E3d V6 All metal with copper heater block should be able to do what you want. you would also need a pt100 temperature sensor to replace the thermistor if that is what you are using now

 

[cwbullet]

I have not tried this filament type.

 

[gorillamotors]

I just ordered a Bontech BMG-M extruder with a Mosquito Magnum hotend for my Prusa MK3. It is capable of printing at 450C (more than I need) at twice the speed. I will let you guys know how it tests out.

 

[cwbullet]

Let me know how it ends up. I have toyed with it.

 

[gorillamotors]

I just ordered a Bontech BMG-M extruder with a Mosquito Magnum hotend for my Prusa MK3. It is capable of printing at 450C (more than I need) at twice the speed. I will let you guys know how it tests out.View attachment 382206

I realized that after I received them that there are NO adapters for that combo Bondtech/Mosquito. I am now in the process of designing an adapter for it. I have to print pieces of parts and put them together like a jigsaw puzzle to find the correct adapter.

 

[cwbullet]

Please, please, do a build thread.

 

[mpitfield]

Please, please, do a build thread.

+2 There are those of us waiting to see your success so we can follow. BTW what build plate and thermister are you planning on using? I have the PT100 which is good up to 400°C, a little shy of your max 410 range.

 

[Landru]

Be very deliberate with your design choices.

If you have a heated bed at 180C, you also have air above the bed at 180C (350F), which is plenty to soften or melt non-metal components, including the insulation on wires going into your extruder.

 

[Wallace]

Be very deliberate with your design choices.

If you have a heated bed at 180C, you also have air above the bed at 180C (350F), which is plenty to soften or melt non-metal components, including the insulation on wires going into your extruder.

Yup, that's really pushing temps. Make absolutely certain EVERYTHING can handle it.

 

[gorillamotors]

+2 There are those of us waiting to see your success so we can follow. BTW what build plate and thermister are you planning on using? I have the PT100 which is good up to 400°C, a little shy of your max 410 range.

I will post something when I get the adapter somewhat complete. Kind of a pain having to design a new one.

I plan on using the Mosquito Magnums thermistor (450C $40.00) and their 50W heater element ($20.00). I have some new E3D X nozzles and some rubies that I will use. I will use my original powder coated Prusa but I have a buildtek and another one from Canada.

I think I can tweak the Prusa bed to around 130C but that will be the limit for now.

 

[OverTheTop]

I am interested to see how this goes. PEEK is a fairly exotic material for 3D printing. Has some really nice chemical resistance. I think it is also ozone resistant, as I recall it is used in making a special duct on the outlet of one of the airconditioner components that can generate some ozone (if my memory serves me correctly) in the Boeing 787. I remember thinking "Wow!" when I saw a part that large was in PEEK.

Why are you using that material gorillamotors? Just curious.

 

[gorillamotors]

I am interested to see how this goes. PEEK is a fairly exotic material for 3D printing. Has some really nice chemical resistance. I think it is also ozone resistant, as I recall it is used in making a special duct on the outlet of one of the airconditioner components that can generate some ozone (if my memory serves me correctly) in the Boeing 787. I remember thinking "Wow!" when I saw a part that large was in PEEK.

Why are you using that material gorillamotors? Just curious.

I mostly want to print with filaments up to PC polycarbonate (around 340C) but want to have the capability to print up to PEEK temps (extruder 400C, bed 140C).

 

[Wallace]

What are you using for a bed heater? Also; do you have or planning on an enclosure?

 

[gorillamotors]

What are you using for a bed heater? Also; do you have or planning on an enclosure?

I talked to E3D about their high temp beds and they told you have to use main power to get their beds to 180-200C. I also talked to a friend of mine with a stock Prusa MK3 and he said that he can get the bed max to 140C without any complications with just a tweak in the firmware. I think I am going to try tweaking it first then maybe later try to upgrade it.

Here is my enclosure.

 

[AeroAggie]

Hmm...you've PEEKed my interest! Can't wait to see what you come up with.

 

[cwbullet]

I talked to E3D about their high temp beds and they told you have to use main power to get their beds to 180-200C. I also talked to a friend of mine with a stock Prusa MK3 and he said that he can get the bed max to 140C without any complications with just a tweak in the firmware. I think I am going to try tweaking it first then maybe later try to upgrade it.

Here is my enclosure.
View attachment 383188

Jim, which server enclosure is that?

 

[gorillamotors]

Jim, which server enclosure is that?

It's a NavePoint 15U from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A2JE1EE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I replaced the side panels with 3/8" polycarbonate glass.

 

[cwbullet]

How is the Bondtech and Mosquito working out?

 

[jbr]

wondering what the prusa parts are printed with, they could fail with elevated temps

 

[cwbullet]

Prusa parts Are We printed with petg and at least one part is ABS.

 

[beeblebrox]

If you are going through all that trouble, don't let the last item the filament sees screw up your prints, you need one of these nozzles, they are expensive but will last forever and work with high temps and abrasive filament...

https://olssonruby.com/the-olsson-ruby/#high-temp

 

[0011001100]

If you are going through all that trouble, don't let the last item the filament sees screw up your prints, you need one of these nozzles, they are expensive but will last forever and work with high temps and abrasive filament...

https://olssonruby.com/the-olsson-ruby/#high-temp

Don't get one, they are very fragile and if you torque them to spec they break. Broken two already, go with hardened steel or the likes if doing abrasives.

 

[cwbullet]

If you are going through all that trouble, don't let the last item the filament sees screw up your prints, you need one of these nozzles, they are expensive but will last forever and work with high temps and abrasive filament...

https://olssonruby.com/the-olsson-ruby/#high-temp

There are much better options such as a Vanadium or the X Nozzle.

 

[jbr]

big fan of the X Nozzle