Estes Saturn V #1969 Build - Let's share ideas and experiences...

[captbk]

Anyone have a OP file for the newest 1969 model?

 

[mjennings]

I emailed Estes about this. They told me to use 2 pats like the instructions say. The other two are extras. However, my first flight on an E20 was a sky writer. I’ve since added the weight, but haven’t had the chance to fly it again. Before I flew mine, someone else at my club sug

Full disclosure: I was liberal with the paint and my rocket weighs more than the box specs (even before the extra added weight). That might be the reason for the instability, as well.

I’m interested what others say about this.

I recently emailed ESTES and they told me to use all 4 pats of clay

 

[SecondRow]

I recently emailed ESTES and they told me to use all 4 pats of clay

One of us got some bad info from Estes, and I’m pretty sure it was me. I launched my Saturn V with the added weight in the nose cone on an E30-4 a few weeks ago and it was perfect. When I build my #1969, I will use all 4 pats of clay.

 

[Videolester]

One of us got some bad info from Estes, and I’m pretty sure it was me. I launched my Saturn V with the added weight in the nose cone on an E30-4 a few weeks ago and it was perfect. When I build my #1969, I will use all 4 pats of clay.

One of us got some bad info from Estes, and I’m pretty sure it was me. I launched my Saturn V with the added weight in the nose cone on an E30-4 a few weeks ago and it was perfect. When I build my #1969, I will use all 4 pats of clay.

So .. bottom line .... Use all 4 pats ??????????

 

[SecondRow]

So .. bottom line .... Use all 4 pats ??????????

That's what I think now.

 

[KenC]

My build used the Estes 24mm screw on motor retainer. It's the same weight as the supplied engine clip material and is easier to install.
Using 1010 rail buttons will allow less rod whip and a longer guided length to gain a stable speed . I mounted the buttons in the open base just above the bottom wrap. The second rail button is just above the top centering ring in the parachute compartment. I used weld nuts and 3/8" long nylon stand offs to clear the fin fairings from the 1010 rail. This also keeps the rocket from getting "rod rash" keeping the paint unscratched.
I agree with using only epoxy on the centering rings, Titebond created three indents that were a pain to fill and finish.
I also used card stock crescents epoxied to the fin fairings bottoms to clean up the imperfections in the styrene bases after attaching the fairings.
I used only three of the clay pats and estimated the drag stabilization by adding a second set of wide fins at the base of the fins. See the posted screen shot. This gave me 1+ caliber of stability using Rocksim Ver 9.0

The maiden flight was perfect. No damage to the rocket except a minor scratch on one fin fairing base from landing on the gravel road. The flight was videoed and the link is below

 

[mjennings]

So .. bottom line .... Use all 4 pats ??????????

that's what I did and I added a bit extra, but I did some small mods Gussets on the top and bottom CRs and I'm adding balsa blocks with screw eyes instead of doing the folded tea bag shock cord mounts.

Those who have flown it where does the CG sit?

 

[KenC]

The CG from post 96, for the unloaded with parachutes Saturn V is 21" from the tip of the Command Module or about 24.5" to the tip of the LES. When I flew it it did have two Peeps in the parachute compartment too.

 

[mjennings]

awesome thanks! Tonight's mission is finish attaching the wraps

 

[Videolester]

People's thoughts please on the Estes recommended E12-4 motor for the 1969 Sat V ??? Is everyone getting good flights on that motor?

 

[Videolester]

Launch rod specs .... Is a 36" 3/16ths rod adequate with a E12-4 ?? Not too worried about the E30-4.

 

[David Schwantz]

I used a 36" 3/16th rod with a 29 mm F-67-9W. Flew off the rod great.

 

[Videolester]

I used a 36" 3/16th rod with a 29 mm F-67-9W. Flew off the rod great.

Planning on starting with an E12-4 ... then an E30-4. Should I be worried about a 36" 3/16ths rod ??

 

[Tyler P]

Planning on starting with an E12-4 ... then an E30-4. Should I be worried about a 36" 3/16ths rod ??

I launched mine off a 36" rod. It had no issues getting up to speed with the E12-4.

 

[Videolester]

I launched mine off a 36" rod. It had no issues getting up to speed with the E12-4.

Good to hear! Was it a 3/16th rod ??

 

[Tyler P]

Good to hear! Was it a 3/16th rod ??

Yes.

 

[Videolester]

Yes.

Even BETTER to hear !! Thanks !!

 

[VonRecktofen]

So I'm building my first ever Saturn V model for the 50th Anniv. flight, the new edition 1969 kit, and I'm wondering if I have to modify the coupler tube so that it will fit into the top of the main body tube.... It seems like it will be a very tight fit, has anyone had this experience yet? Should I cut a 32" or so out of it and re join it together to allow for a better fit, or should I just build it as is and sand it slightly smaller?
Any suggestions from you folks who have already out one together would help...
Thanks!

Franz in NJ

 

[SecondRow]

So I'm building my first ever Saturn V model for the 50th Anniv. flight, the new edition 1969 kit, and I'm wondering if I have to modify the coupler tube so that it will fit into the top of the main body tube.... It seems like it will be a very tight fit, has anyone had this experience yet? Should I cut a 32" or so out of it and re join it together to allow for a better fit, or should I just build it as is and sand it slightly smaller?
Any suggestions from you folks who have already out one together would help...
Thanks!

Franz in NJ

I don't think you need to cut it. I lightly sanded the forward end of the main tube. It fits fine now. The only ring that I cut a small piece out of was the reinforcing ring that goes in the aft end of the main tube. That one didn't even come close to fitting as is.

 

[VonRecktofen]

I don't think you need to cut it. I lightly sanded the forward end of the main tube. It fits fine now. The only ring that I cut a small piece out of was the reinforcing ring that goes in the aft end of the main tube. That one didn't even come close to fitting as is.

Thanks, that's what I was thinking about the reinforcing ring as well....Didn't seem like it would fit very well on it's own...
What did you use to attach the wraps? I've got the P90 spray and I've got epoxy and CA as well...

Thanks again!
Franz

 

[SecondRow]

I used the 3M 77. The wraps lifted at the corners a day later, so I used thin CA to keep them down. They haven’t come up since. Note that mine is the 2157 model, not the 1969.

 

[VonRecktofen]

I used the 3M 77. The wraps lifted at the corners a day later, so I used thin CA to keep them down. They haven’t come up since. Note that mine is the 2157 model, not the 1969.

Thanks!

 

[JDDICKERS]

Good day all just getting back into rocketry after a long time out of the hobby. I am currently in the process of two Saturn builds a Apogee Saturn V and the 1969 Estes the Estes I am building the only change made is using the molded fins and fairing from Sirius rockets didn't like what came with the kit. I have a second 1969 kit to build. He are my thoughts on it. Using the motor pod from Boyce Aerospace with the 4 outer 18mm and 29mm center will use a 29mm motor tube with plywood center rings.
Hope everyone has a successful flight with there's
JD

 

[VonRecktofen]

Well, I’m glad that’s over with! 3M 90 adhesive worked very well, started at the bottom and worked my way up to the top! Also did the wrap for the Little Joe II at the same time... Let’s see how strong this stuff is tomorrow after it cures!
Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions!
Franz in NJ

 

[KenC]

So I'm building my first ever Saturn V model for the 50th Anniv. flight, the new edition 1969 kit, and I'm wondering if I have to modify the coupler tube so that it will fit into the top of the main body tube.... It seems like it will be a very tight fit, has anyone had this experience yet? Should I cut a 32" or so out of it and re join it together to allow for a better fit, or should I just build it as is and sand it slightly smaller?
Any suggestions from you folks who have already out one together would help...
Thanks!

Franz in NJ

I had to peel a layer of paper from the top of the body tube to allow enough room to use the static line from the service module loop. I was concerned because this didn't leave much thickness, however the rocket flew fine and showed no problems associated with the thin mouth. I did reinforce the remaining tube, with water thin CA . On my next build I will cut the coupler and fit it to the body tube to eliminate the issue..

I didn't have trouble with the reinforcing ring since you can squeeze it to insert it into the bottom open bay. I also use epoxy to keep it from grabbing on insertion.

 

[OverTheTop]

So I'm building my first ever Saturn V model for the 50th Anniv. flight, the new edition 1969 kit, and I'm wondering if I have to modify the coupler tube so that it will fit into the top of the main body tube.... It seems like it will be a very tight fit, has anyone had this experience yet? Should I cut a 32" or so out of it and re join it together to allow for a better fit, or should I just build it as is and sand it slightly smaller?
Any suggestions from you folks who have already out one together would help...
Thanks!
Franz in NJ

It will actually fit without any sanding (mine did anyway), if you are very careful how you fit the top section to the main BT. I thought I might have to sand, but it turned out to be not so bad.

FYI, I am using BSI 30min epoxy to fit the wraps. I would like something a bit less tacky and more runny, but it is acceptable. I am also making some fluffy epoxy by using Q-Cell microballoons to reduce the density and using this to fill some of the larger features on the wraps. That should make them less prone to any dings on landing.

I like how the wraps make a composite with the BT and give it some additional strength.

 

[VonRecktofen]

Here’s a picture of the wraps in place...

 

[David Schwantz]

Does anyone have the CP location?

 

[lcorinth]

I'm nearing the end of the build, and I gotta say, wow, what a kit! I even made some mistakes (my cuts on the fairings and the cutaway bit at the bottom were a bit rough), but unless you look closely, you don't really even see them.

So, am I reading the instructions correctly, that the rocket is meant to come down in two pieces? Two chutes for the main body and one for the top section, hanging at an angle from the wire anchor?

Are most of you doing this, or are you keeping the rocket in one piece? I suppose it might be better to have the top come down separately if you have the LES glued on, which I think I will. I'm just curious how others might deviate from the instructions here.

 

[David Schwantz]

First flight I tried it stock, but it is designed for the upper section to come down flat. Lost my LES, which I kind of figured. So then I changed it to 2 Top Flight chutes and she comes down nose first now. Like that much better. Bottom section comes down bottom first.