3D Printing Prusa Mods

[mpitfield]

I have been seeing replacement anodized aluminium parts for the Prusa MK3 printer stock PETG parts online, but the price is typically a bit steep and I couldn't find any reviews. A couple weeks ago I found some Y axis parts at a reasonable price and thought I would take a chance. They arrived a few days ago and I have to say the fit and quality is really excellent.

I am now replacing the Z axis PETG brackets and will likely replace the X brackets as well. This is simply motivated by mitigating points of failure as well as generally stiffening up the frame and all axis in order to get as good a print as the technology can deliver.

For anyone interested in the Y axis upgrades the sellers name is WillBest on Amazon. For the Z axis I ended up ordering the parts from two other Amazon sellers, GIMAX and KIMME SHOP, although I have not received the parts so I can't say whether the quality is as good as the ones from WillBest.

 

[curtisheisey]

More recommended Prusa upgrades.

1) Copper heat block (E3D v6) purchased through filastruder https://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-spare-parts-and-accessories/products/e3d-heater-block-v6.

2) Also, the PT100 temp sensor and amplifier from there, which is more accurate and can read higher temps (aka nylon). It takes some electronics knowledge to install. You need to tap 5V off the rambo board. Also, you need to rebuild the firmware. Download the code from github. Uncomment one #define and rebuild. I did on linux, and all it required was running a script that was in the repo.

 

[mpitfield]

More recommended Prusa upgrades.

1) Copper heat block (E3D v6) purchased through filastruder https://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-spare-parts-and-accessories/products/e3d-heater-block-v6.

2) Also, the PT100 temp sensor and amplifier from there, which is more accurate and can read higher temps (aka nylon). It takes some electronics knowledge to install. You need to tap 5V off the rambo board. Also, you need to rebuild the firmware. Download the code from github. Uncomment one #define and rebuild. I did on linux, and all it required was running a script that was in the repo.

Well this is timely. My printer is apart to replace the back of the extruder body that failed on the two bottom screws. While inspecting everything I noticed a big deposit of melted filament on top of the heat block. It seems that the leak that I discovered and "fixed" a couple of weeks ago wasn't fixed.

Now that I have had some time to research how to assemble the V6 I figured out what I was doing wrong. I found the following very thorough guide on how-to assemble the E3D V6 https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-assemble-an-e3d-v6-all-metal-hotend. Also here is the official one on the E3D site https://wiki.e3d-online.com/E3D-v6_Assembly

I also ended up ordering some replacement parts for the V6 but this upgrade looks very reasonable.

I think I might rename this thread to Prusa upgrades.

 

[cwbullet]

I like the copper block.

I also have started using the silicone socks. There keep the hotend clean.

 

[mpitfield]

I like the copper block.

I also have started using the silicone socks. There keep the hotend clean.

The silicone sock was one of the things that I ordered when ordering the spare parts. It made a lot of send to me that it would not only provide some insulating properties but also make cleaning up much easier. I can see these socks breaking down and becoming brittle after a while.

 

[Locksmith]

+1 on the silicones sock if you ever get the blob of death it will save your hot end. We put them on all are 3d printers
Not sure if the aluminum parts would help but hey can't hurt. I have the moons extruder and the mmu2 on my personal mk3 and am putting the new bondtech extruder on one of the mk3s at the local maker space.

 

[mpitfield]

So I thought it would be more appropriate to name this thread "Prusa Mods". On that note I found this little gem for mods https://prusacommunity.com/category/mods/

 

[curtisheisey]

Michael, also note that the E3D V6 heat break is different than the one use for Prusa. On the filasturder website, there is a special Prusa one https://www.filastruder.com/collect...accessories/products/prusa-specific-e3d-parts. I don't understand what the difference is, or if the E3D V6 default heat break will work or won't work.

Definitely use the sock in general for regular printing.

I think the copper heat block, which conducts heat better, allows for more precise temp control. Also, running to 400C. However, don't use silicon sock at that high heat. And you probably need an enclosure with outside ventilation in that case, as there might be nasty outgassing.

I had print quality and reliability issues when the room temp got too low (had it in the basement). Winter came along, 60 F ambient room temp, suddenly blobing, prints not sticking, layer shifting simultaneously in x and y, and general unreliability. I made an enclosure, installed copper heat block, changed to PT100 sensor, and I am getting the best prints ever (granted, I am not sure what all the cause and effects are with all the changes I made at once).

 

[mpitfield]

Michael, also note that the E3D V6 heat break is different than the one use for Prusa. On the filasturder website, there is a special Prusa one https://www.filastruder.com/collect...accessories/products/prusa-specific-e3d-parts. I don't understand what the difference is, or if the E3D V6 default heat break will work or won't work.

Definitely use the sock in general for regular printing.

I think the copper heat block, which conducts heat better, allows for more precise temp control. Also, running to 400C. However, don't use silicon sock at that high heat. And you probably need an enclosure with outside ventilation in that case, as there might be nasty outgassing.

I had print quality and reliability issues when the room temp got too low (had it in the basement). Winter came along, 60 F ambient room temp, suddenly blobing, prints not sticking, layer shifting simultaneously in x and y, and general unreliability. I made an enclosure, installed copper heat block, changed to PT100 sensor, and I am getting the best prints ever (granted, I am not sure what all the cause and effects are with all the changes I made at once).

Thanks for the followup. I read that on Filastruder's site when I ordered my PT100, Copper heat block and Capricorn PTFE tubing. They explain the difference in the product description "Heatbreaks are like standard v6 heartbreaks, but have a slightly different internal geometry to facilitate Multi Material prints."

BTW I also ordered the Full Bear frame upgrade, the latest Bondtech extruder as well as the Moons stepper for the extruder.

As far as the enclosure I am in the process of building one that has a full temperature humidity and smoke detector touch screen LCD that also controls the built in LCD lights and filament humidity controlled integrated storage.

 

[cwbullet]

Here is a list of more mods: https://prusacommunity.com/mega-mods-for-your-prusa-mk3/

 

[mpitfield]

Michael, also note that the E3D V6 heat break is different than the one use for Prusa. On the filasturder website, there is a special Prusa one https://www.filastruder.com/collect...accessories/products/prusa-specific-e3d-parts. I don't understand what the difference is, or if the E3D V6 default heat break will work or won't work.

Definitely use the sock in general for regular printing.

I think the copper heat block, which conducts heat better, allows for more precise temp control. Also, running to 400C. However, don't use silicon sock at that high heat. And you probably need an enclosure with outside ventilation in that case, as there might be nasty outgassing.

I had print quality and reliability issues when the room temp got too low (had it in the basement). Winter came along, 60 F ambient room temp, suddenly blobing, prints not sticking, layer shifting simultaneously in x and y, and general unreliability. I made an enclosure, installed copper heat block, changed to PT100 sensor, and I am getting the best prints ever (granted, I am not sure what all the cause and effects are with all the changes I made at once).

Hi Curtis, My PT100 sensor and amplifier board arrived today, now I just need to install it. Do you have any links on the installation and setup for this on the Prusa?

 

[mpitfield]

Has anyone played with the Prusa firmware? I am just following the following article and as I make my way through the trials and tribulations I will post my findings.

https://zaribo.org/blog/how-to-compile-and-modify-prusa-firmware-part-i-setting-up-the-environment/

Here are a couple more resources:

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/tree/MK3
https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/-f6/compiling-on-latest-arduino-ide-t6211.html

 

[curtisheisey]

PT100 install.

First check the sensor. Should read around 105 ohms for room temp.


Background
https://blog.beamex.com/pt100-temperature-sensor

FW rebuild.
Download from https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware
There are instructions on the git hub repo. I tried to build in the arduino IDE, but all kinds of junk text appeared on the screen when I installed the image. Built on linux, and it built and ran fine.
Go to the "variants" folder in the repo. Copy "1_75mm_MK3-EINSy10a-E3Dv6full.h" up a directory to "Configuration_prusa.h". About 10 lines down, uncomment the line "define E3D_PT100_EXTRUDER_WITH_AMP" and rebuild the FW.



PT100 install
https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/improvements-archive--f85/mini-rambo-1-3-and-e3d-with-pt100-t700.html
https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Wiki/E3D_PT100_Amplifier_Documentation
https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/9infon/how_to_set_up_pt100_on_a_mk3/
https://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/8.+Electronics+assembly+(B3-R2+design)/513?lang=en

You need to tap +5 off the motherboard. This can be from pin 1 of the open header above "Filament sensor header" (open, assuming you don't have MMU2). This is the fat blue wire with the clear heat shrink in the photo with my thumb. The signal and ground from the PT100 amp go into the thermister port.

Message me if you have any issues/questions. I can post some photos if you like.

I actually had an issue this week. Suddenly 1100 degrees C on the display. I checked the resistance, and 6Meg ohm. Filastruder said I may have over tightened it and crushed it. Sent a replacement under warranty, though.

 

[curtisheisey]

Mounted the PT100 amp board at the bottom with two short 4-40 standoffs.

 

[mpitfield]

Mounted the PT100 amp board at the bottom with two short 4-40 standoffs.

Some options for PT100 amplifier cases on Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=pt100

I have the Full Bear frame upgrade on the way, which has its own printed parts including a new Einsey case that I will try to modify to accept the PT100 amplifier.

 

[gorillamotors]

Here is my Prusa MK3 enclosure. Not quite done yet. A few more mods on it to go.

 

[mpitfield]

Prusa news, they released new firmware, Slic3r and the MK3S. Below is a list of differences:

Firmware (MK3) 3.5.2:

• Quieter print fan operation
• Heatbed regulation improved - reduced the PSU clicking noise
• Improved heater temperature regulation
• Spool join for multi-material prints
• Smarter load/unload function
• SD card menu is shown automatically when the card is inserted
• Safer communication between MMU2 and printer
• Crash detection for zero target temperature fixed

Hardware MK3S:

• New IR filament Sensor: The previous sensor didn’t work well with some specific filaments. The new sensor is using the optical sensor which is triggered by a simple mechanical lever. This sensor doesn’t care about the optical properties of the filament (it can be completely invisible) and cannot die because of mechanical wear.
• Easier Service: Thanks to completely reworked extruder you don’t have to take apart the whole extruder if you want to change the nozzle or PTFE tube. As a bonus, the nozzle and the extruder motor is much closer to the X axis, this means less resonance and better prints too. Better Y axis belt tensioning is just the icing on the cake.
• Better Cooling: Thanks to the better design of the whole extruder, air flow is increased and as a result, cooling capabilities are improved. We have also focused on cooling of the the printed object and MK2.5S/MK3S is better for printing from flexible materials.

MK3 to MK3S Upgrade package is available for $19.99 and it includes:

• IR filament sensor + cable
• PTFE tube
• Fan-shroud-black
• Bolts & fasteners
• Textile sleeve
• 300g Black PETG for self-printed parts

Links:

• MK3 Firmware
• Slic3r 2.2.3
  
• MK3S
  
• MK3 to MK3S Upgrade

 

[AeroAggie]

I ordered a MK3 over the weekend, and it looks like my MK3S will be here tomorrow [emoji51]. I’m a big fan of making things stiffer for prettier quality, so a Bear upgrade is on my short wishlist. The others are TBD until I get some experience, and see if the power users out there deem the S deficient in new ways.

 

[curtisheisey]

Michael, thanks for posting info on the Prusa MK3S upgrade. I am impressed at how Prusa addresses pain points (like changing the nozzle). I am very interested in this.

Would there be any interest in going in on a group order for the MK3S upgrades, e.g. one group member places an order to Prusa (probably $60 shipping) and then splits the order and sends the items to other group members domestic shipping. That we we all don't get hit with a $40-60 shipping charge.

 

[mpitfield]

Michael, thanks for posting info on the Prusa MK3S upgrade. I am impressed at how Prusa addresses pain points (like changing the nozzle). I am very interested in this.

Would there be any interest in going in on a group order for the MK3S upgrades, e.g. one group member places an order to Prusa (probably $60 shipping) and then splits the order and sends the items to other group members domestic shipping. That we we all don't get hit with a $40-60 shipping charge.

Hi Curtis,

I ordered my Prusa printer from a local Canadian reseller but since then I have placed several orders for Prusa PETG and the shipping has been reasonable, at least based on Canadian standards. You guys in the US have it made on shipping rates but I digress.

Having said that I placed my order for the upgrade yesterday and the shipping wasn't that bad, it was $12.07 just for the upgrade. Proportionately it looks bad so I ended up adding some white PETG to the order just to make it worth while.

 

[Locksmith]

I get the MMU2s and MK3s upgrade free since I have a mmu2 but have to wait for the voucher to be sent. Personally I think the MK3s is a downgrade "IF AND ONLY IF" you have a working filament sensory. I own 1 and help maintain 2 others out of the 3 only 1 works perfectly so I understand there decision to go to more of a binary on off switch. But now you lose jam detection which was one of the big upgrades of the MK3 from MK2s. Not that big of a deal but still a downgrade for the 1 out of 3 here.
Cool thing now though for those who like to upgrade or spice up there printers your extruder does not have to be black anymore. Sucks I only have Polycarbonate in black though

 

[curtisheisey]

My MK3 filament sensor stopped working, so the MK3S upgrade is welcome. Oh, I have a MMU2 so will get the voucher and free shipping for MK3S upgrade.

 

[Locksmith]

Yeah I'm in same boat I replaced my sensor twice already and finally just disabled it. So yes the upgrade is welcome here also looks like they made major stability improvements on the mmu2 so that will be nice!

 

[cwbullet]

I just order the upgrade to go from I3 MK3 to MK3S.

 

[BryRocket]

I just order the upgrade to go from I3 MK3 to MK3S.

Me too. Also did a petg print with stock settings using the new slic3r at 0.15 slow and I have to say it’s a nice improvement over the older 0.15 setting.

 

[mpitfield]

My filament sensor is working however I have been using clear PLA filament, which I love printing with, and it doesn't work too well with the optical sensor. I have to disable the sensor altogether when I print with clear. One thing I will need to deal with is I have the Bondtech extruder, which I recommend, and as it is does not work with the new filament sensor. I believe that they are working on or already have a modification that essentially moves the sensor outside the extruder...we will see. Bottom line I do not want to go away from the Bondtech.

 

[Ryan Gillette]

I just ordered the upgrade kit MKS3 kit also. Didnt even know about it before I read this so thanks.

 

[mpitfield]

Just reporting that there may be a bug in the latest MK3 firmware, 3.5.2-1999. This is not official and is only based on my experience as reported here https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/asse...spinning-not-spinning-mk3-t28000.html#p130587

I would be interested to hear from anyone with the MK3 running the latest 3.5.2-199 firmware to see if your calibration wizard or self test fails as mine did.

 

[BryRocket]

Completed the MK3->MK3S upgrade. Half way through it I was wondering why I decided to take apart my perfectly functioning printer but after a handful of hours we’re all calibrated and printing again. Don’t forget to update to the MK3S firmware and get the Slic3r MK3S profiles if you make the changes. Seems to print...as good as it did before. I did take the opportunity to add a hardened steel nozzle so that should be nice.

 

[BryRocket]

Also, does anyone know how to run another first layer cal but have the setting be 0.00 to start? When using my textured sheet I run around -0.625 but the smooth sheet it’s closer to -0.260. When I switch and run the first layer cal, it immediately jams into the sheet before I can back it off. Any thoughts on that?