ESTES PATRIOT (#2056) Motor Upgrade

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I was fairly far along on a sim of the Pro Series Patriot when I had a HD crash last year... I might have to try to recreate the sim.
 
It's a classic. I just finished measuring and modeling the one I bought from a forum member last year (Dated Dec '92)
I may get around to making part drawings of it and throwing together a pdf

I'd sure like a copy of this, Nyrunner, in PDF if you don't mind. Or I could scrounge up some part specs and go from there, I think.

https://www.rocketreviews.com/patriot---estes-2066-1992-1995.html

Looking over your tutorial thread, K'Tesh. Thanks!

https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/kteshs-openrocket-tutorials.62884/
 
Last edited:
K'Tesh? New kid on the block with OPENROCKET... the Patriot sim file worked GREAT; but "ork" files aren't. What am I doing wrong?? Thanks.

>UPDATE< I'm beginning to figure it out.
 
Last edited:
for this one you will need a sacrificial Big Daddy kit and a length of T300-34 (3" tube from Balsa Machining Services) plus a coupler*. if built with a 24mm motor mount you should be able get a proper balance with no additional weight. paint the nose white and the rest of the rocket in red primer and you're done :).
*will also need 6 - 8' of 1/4" sewing elastic.
Rex
 

Attachments

  • rcrpatriotv3.ork
    3 KB · Views: 35
I've got four 3"X18" body tubes and TWO 3"X 5:1 Ogive nose cones... couplers, CRs, and 24mm MMT.

Gonna put this Patriot together first, then an Estes Excalibur... then either the [from scratch] Leviathan or Patriot (PS).

These OR sims are absolutely fabulous!!

Thanks Rex R and K'Tesh!
 
Do not blindly trust rocketreview.com's sims. Some of them may be great, but all to often when I've converted .rkt files to .ork files and checked them out, I found horrible errors in dimensions, shapes of fins, etc. It may be a starting point, but you really can't trust them without carefully checking them.

Now for my sims. Pay attention to things like "Air fins" Those are created to allow me to attach "decals" and "paint" that doesn't match the other side of the fin. Eliminating them will improve the accuracy of the flight performance.
 
I used 110# cardstock to paper the 1/8" balsa fins (was trying to hold the weight down, and reduce the amount of nose weight...it wasn't until after I had it built that I thought of the 24mm mount) the ork file shows it as built, with a 29mm mount(and 4oz of weight). original PS patriot had a 4 D engine cluster(IIRC)
Rex
 
Making an 18mm MMT to insert into the 24mm MMT is pretty easy... a little masking tape does WONDERS!

Someone stated that Estes is a bit conservative in their powering recommendations.

There are a few designs that I am "looking" to upgrade to have a 29mm MMT... many of the designed 24mm rockets... with a little bit of forward thinking and prep... would be advantageous, I believe.

I love a pegged-out FUN-METER!

K'Tesh posted on a different thread... that changing to a straight 16.5" BT would be quite advantageous to this Estes Patriot (#2056) model. Think I'm going to give it a try.
 
I was fairly far along on a sim of the Pro Series Patriot when I had a HD crash last year... I might have to try to recreate the sim.

YEAH! I caught that in the Thread you have! I went through ALL FIFTEEN pages of it and COMPLETELY enjoyed every moment!

The Estes Leviathan would "probably" serve as a good base to redevelop the PS Patriot.(Not sure if the 5:1 Ogive nose cone will "work" but it's close).
 
YEAH! I caught that in the Thread you have! I went through ALL FIFTEEN pages of it and COMPLETELY enjoyed every moment!

The Estes Leviathan would "probably" serve as a good base to redevelop the PS Patriot.(Not sure if the 5:1 Ogive nose cone will "work" but it's close).
The Estes nosevone is closer to 3:1, and the Balsa Maching Service/Mercury Engineering/Apogee PNC-300K is closer to 3:1, if you have a 5:1 is most likely a HPR nosecone with an OD of 3.1" verses 3.0" for the Estes.
 
the big daddy/ leviathan nose cone is the cone used for the PS patriot (as is the slotted tube used by the BD & Leviathan). companies seldom discard parts that they paid good money to develop :).
Rex
 
the big daddy/ leviathan nose cone is the cone used for the PS patriot (as is the slotted tube used by the BD & Leviathan). companies seldom discard parts that they paid good money to develop :).
Rex
Especially injection/blowmolding dies those are extremely expensive.
 
I used 110# cardstock to paper the 1/8" balsa fins (was trying to hold the weight down, and reduce the amount of nose weight...it wasn't until after I had it built that I thought of the 24mm mount) the ork file shows it as built, with a 29mm mount(and 4oz of weight). original PS patriot had a 4 D engine cluster(IIRC)
Rex

Correct on the 4 motor cluster. That was real fun to model in solidworks.
 
I flew my stock Estes (2056) Patriot M-104 on a C6-5 with 2 payloads:
1. Estes Altimeter: 288 ft.
2. 808 keychain camera
The engine was way underpowered for just the 2 small payloads. I was thinking of removing the old engine block and put either a cluster or add a 24mm to it. Then remove the horrible decals and spray paint it.
Correction on my Estes 2056 Patriot. Should have been Estes 1248 Launchables. To late to edit, so I added it.IMG_2134.JPG
 
I've been wanting to try one of these ejection charge baffles for a long time. I assembled one with wood glue and coated the inside and both ends with BSI 30 min epoxy. I wanted to put it inside the Patriot after I upgraded it with at least a 24mm engine mount. Would the 1/4 oz baffle defeat the whole purpose of the engine upgrade or would it be alright? Also, how far up from the motor mount should I install it to not upset balance, yet still be effective? Getting tired of wadding and chutes with pin holes, plus it would be a whole new experience. Thanks.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2135.JPG
    IMG_2135.JPG
    177.4 KB · Views: 29
  • IMG_2136.JPG
    IMG_2136.JPG
    150.4 KB · Views: 51
  • IMG_2120.JPG
    IMG_2120.JPG
    62.5 KB · Views: 42
I have found that I need about 6" of tube space to pack a chute into(remember that nose cones a payload couplers have sticky out bits that take up room) adjust as needed :).
Rex
 
I have found that I need about 6" of tube space to pack a chute into(remember that nose cones a payload couplers have sticky out bits that take up room) adjust as needed :).
Rex
Yeah, I always had the toughest time trying to load a Baby Bertha. Never seems to be enough room in that short BT, especially when the NC hangs way down inside the tube. Thanks.
 
- No need for TTW fins on BP D/E motors,stock balsa fins will be fine.
- To determine nose weight, measure CG with a C6 (with the kit nose weight installed), then put in an E12, add nose weight to bring the CG back to the same spot. This is probably less than the motor weight difference.
-Rocksim runs fine on a Mac, I use it. Contact apogee, they’ll help.
 
The Estes nosevone is closer to 3:1, and the Balsa Maching Service/Mercury Engineering/Apogee PNC-300K is closer to 3:1, if you have a 5:1 is most likely a HPR nosecone with an OD of 3.1" verses 3.0" for the Estes.

Tested my 3" 5:1 and it fits my 3" thin wall tubing... got it from Apogee. OD is a perfect fit. Looking all over the house for the receipt to get the numbers on it, though. >3.1" or 3.0"<

Gotta look at the 3;1 Ogive, though... you're correct.
 
Back
Top