Anodize your cases!

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nraymondb

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HI Everyone,


I was thinking about doing an anodizing run for everyone who has purchased casings in the last couple years, it doesn’t matter the manufacture.
There will be a minimum quantity required before I would do a run.
The price below would be for the case and closure(s) and the components have to be generally clean, i.e. no grease/minimal carbon or you will have bare spots.


Here is the breakdown, let me know your thoughts.


29mm $7.50 per set

38mm $10.00 per set

54mm $15.00 per set

75mm $20.00 per set

98mm $30.00 per set

Larger or anything else? Send an email [email protected] for a quote.


There are some constraints: I would offer ORANGE, GREY and RED for anything up to 36 inches, anything larger than 36 inches and up to 72 inches I could offer only BLACK. If you look at my webpage you can see what the orange and grey will look like. This is Type II anodizing which puts on about 1000th of an inch.


Email me at: ([email protected]) with what you have, ill give you the total and if agreed upon will invoice you. The motors will have to ship before 10/1/18, and the turn around time would be a 10 days. (shipped back the week of 10/10/18).

And lets do a promotion of 13% off anything over $100 spent. Any questions please email.

Thanks,
-Nik
 
Unless I miss my guess, CTI cases are clear anodized from the factory. You would need to strip, reanodize, dye, seal which would -definitely- alter the status.
Is a "natural" CTI case still certified if you have it anodized?
 
Orange case with grey closures would be nice.

That's what mine would be since I'll be using a hubcap and other CTI stuff. But I'm suddenly wishing I had a raw forward bulkhead for my case now, just to get in on the anodizing. I had someone going to turn me one, never heard back from him.
 
That's what mine would be since I'll be using a hubcap and other CTI stuff. But I'm suddenly wishing I had a raw forward bulkhead for my case now, just to get in on the anodizing. I had someone going to turn me one, never heard back from him.

I’ve had a couple of people ask me about making a fw for snap ring cases. I’m not really into the snap ring business but if there was enough want for one, I could make a run of them, like 25+ pieces.
 
Unless I miss my guess, CTI cases are clear anodized from the factory. You would need to strip, reanodize, dye, seal which would -definitely- alter the status.
I’m not sure of this as far as altering status. Just speaking from thought, if one would do this, it wouldn’t alter the fit form or function. By no means would I do it anyway.
 
I’ve had a couple of people ask me about making a fw for snap ring cases. I’m not really into the snap ring business but if there was enough want for one, I could make a run of them, like 25+ pieces.
If the price is right I could probably jump on that as well.
 
The only caution I'd venture is laying a coating on some other makers case or something by a do-it-your-selfer, the liner might be a tighter fit. If ones bare case has a loose fitting liner an anodize coat might help further with fitting.
 
The only caution I'd venture is laying a coating on some other makers case or something by a do-it-your-selfer, the liner might be a tighter fit. If ones bare case has a loose fitting liner an anodize coat might help further with fitting.

Yeah I thought of this as well. My case is a 75/3600 (3500?) Gorilla clone bought from....Gary. I emailed him to see if there will be any issues with this type of anodizing.
 
Yeah I thought of this as well. My case is a 75/3600 (3500?) Gorilla clone bought from....Gary. I emailed him to see if there will be any issues with this type of anodizing.



Here are a couple of pictures of one of those gorilla motors (76/6000). I had it anodized and there is an original AMW liner in it.
IMG_5824.jpg

IMG_5823.jpg
 

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Just caught this message and thought I'd add some insight as I am doing this fairly often at the day job and the SCP you all know, and am deep in the middle of it for the last few days again actually haha.... (oh - and if your waiting for back ordered thrust plates, they are in process and going to the anodizer in a few days, as I am finally back from another Asia trip)

Anodizing grows in two directions, both INTO and OUT FROM the base material surface. This can vary but a type II done professionally would add about .001" additional material, and also "eats" into the surface about an equal amount. So if you are stripping, this will need to remove about 0.002 dimensionally from a case, and the new anodizing will then grow 0.001 of that back. Again the .001 is approximate and can vary, even down to tenths of a thou.

So practically speaking, I highly doubt a .002" change on an ID bore would have any negative impact on liners, as they would have to be accounting for much more variation in the cardboard size.

But being a data junkie, I would still measure any cases I was going to re anodize and study all your mating parts and consider the dimensional changes.
 
I got a reply from Gary and another from Jim Harris saying I should be good to go. And Scott's "endorsement" above is encouraging as well.

I'm in for getting a case done in orange. I really like that orange.
 
Please PM me if you have any volume discounts-I have like 30 snap ring cases I'm considering (orange is good).
 
I have a bunch of snap ring casings too. Most are from Gary without closures. Some I picked up that have been used before. I looked into getting them anodized, trying home brewed, etc. Pricing was pretty high (by the square inch of surface). The home brews looked iffy for me to do with success.

One of the things that did turn me off besides cost, was the 'water bead' test. Do the items have to be that immaculate and oil free to take a proper anodizing? Seems you'd want them hot of the lathe and degreased. Mine are stored, not yet used for motors.

I need to look at what I have, costs of shipping, etc.
 
Is this happening? N̶o̶ ̶r̶e̶s̶p̶o̶n̶s̶e̶ ̶v̶i̶a̶ ̶e̶m̶a̶i̶l̶. Don't want to miss out.

Edit: It wasn't that Nik never responded, but I rather I never sent the email. :oops:
 
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