I saw the kit first hand tonight and realized I should have bought one. Great kit. Maybe next year,
CJ's "PUNISHER" build!
- Thread starter blackjack2564
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Just_Keep_Flying (Masonh)
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Anxiously waiting for the "build" part of the thread to be fulfilled...
o1d_dude
'I battle gravity'
Good looking rockets
It had an awesome flight today.
markkoelsch
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CJ, I think the Punisher needs a K2000- just thinking a proper spanking.
Mark Koelsch
Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum
Mark Koelsch
Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum
blackjack2564
Crazy Jim's Gone Banana's
Chuck & I had quite the experience at the launch..... Sat night I showed him a few tricks so he could speed build fiberglass rockets. I did the first one....next day he showed up at the field with 4 built!!###:y: Good job Chuckie baby! Probably more than he has done in the past year.
I can't seem to get him saying that out of my mind....very funny.
Thankyou.
When I get to fly where the waiver permits...... it's a done deal, it's just begging for this.
Well I stopped in O'burg for the weekend launch, Sat was a blow out with low ceiling and nasty wet weather.
We all went back to the hotel and as mention above Chuck & I [Bridgett too, she was doing some serious sanding & taping] began to build some rockets.
Sunday awoke to clear skies, sunny but very windy. Steady 15-20 with gusts to 35mph. Of course I was the guinea pig, every one else was woos'n out to be the first flying in the blustery conditions.....having said that & being a veteran of Argonia.....those conditions are normal there, so I id not hesitate.
First flight of Punisher & I wanted to see all events to make sure all worked as planned..... it did!
I-211 38 motor,went to 2014ft, certainly not a record breaker, but it got there with a quickness! Boost was straight, even by high wind standards, it traveled about 250ft side ways [but vertical] , when coast began , still maintained vertical path with NO weather cocking all the way to apogee.
Fell dead straight under 12in drogue [highly recommended with any HED type dual-deploy]. NC and drogue with Fin-can perfectly vertical hanging underneath. At 500 ft the X-chute came out,then wind caught it and traveled about 1/4 mile before touch down on the sod.
Had it not been for the wind it would have landed about 400ft from the pad. Everything I hoped for happened according to plan.
With the HED deployment out of the nose, you really need a drogue, otherwise the fin can , may come down streamlining, dragging the NC with main inside, at a high rate of speed..... more on that later during the build.
Just 1.4 g of BP for apogee [which is pretty common amount used for motor deploy] & 1 g for the main. 3 pins for NC.
A pic of it with vinyl applied..... Oh.....myyy! LOL
I then launched the 4 in V-2 on a 54 CTI 2-grain red...went 4112 ft. I lost close to 800-1000ft of vertical travel to severe weather cocking. Flight looked like a rainbow.
That's darn good altitude for a heavy little V-2 [Voo-Doo build] and of course after burn out it did the customary V-2 wiggle.
I'm back home now [Savannah] for the winter & will spend this afternoon gathering my notes and pics.
The complete build will start this evening for those eagerly awaiting! Rather short, there is not much to building one of these after you see it done for the first time. I predict you will do a lot of HED deployment for scale stuff. Finally DD without destroying the look or major modification to the kit.
There were some pics and video of the flights, V-2 and Punisher. Hopefully in a day or 2, the takers of them will post...I for one am dying to see the flights.:grin:
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Hardline
Ecstatic and Joyous
That is so you, CJ! Love the decals.
stealth6
insert witty tagline here
blackjack2564
Crazy Jim's Gone Banana's
Here we go:
Parts shown in their assembly groups.
1.
Recovery Y-harness assembly.
I use approximately 3ft of Kevlar 1in. wide strap, glued to both sides of MM tube for recovery attachment point. Only need it long enough to just protrude out front end of tube. This doubles the strap width area where it hits top of tube and prevents zippers.
Lay across CR [centering ring] and mark for filing small notches so the CR's will go over Kevlar when installing on MM tube.
Tip:
Using a silver sharpie for marking will simplify this for entire build.
2.
File, dremel, sand, small thin notches just deep enough for what ever size Kevlar you use....will provide clearance.
3.
Sand entire MM tube and One side of each CR in preparation for glue.
Left/bottom end, needed a hard sanding for the motor retainer to fit.
Make it fit, if it doesn't.....don't cry about having to "build" a rocket.
4.
Is every body hap... hap...happy now?:grin::grin::grin:
Parts shown in their assembly groups.
1.
Recovery Y-harness assembly.
I use approximately 3ft of Kevlar 1in. wide strap, glued to both sides of MM tube for recovery attachment point. Only need it long enough to just protrude out front end of tube. This doubles the strap width area where it hits top of tube and prevents zippers.
Lay across CR [centering ring] and mark for filing small notches so the CR's will go over Kevlar when installing on MM tube.
Tip:
Using a silver sharpie for marking will simplify this for entire build.
2.
File, dremel, sand, small thin notches just deep enough for what ever size Kevlar you use....will provide clearance.
3.
Sand entire MM tube and One side of each CR in preparation for glue.
Left/bottom end, needed a hard sanding for the motor retainer to fit.
Make it fit, if it doesn't.....don't cry about having to "build" a rocket.
4.
Is every body hap... hap...happy now?:grin::grin::grin:
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blackjack2564
Crazy Jim's Gone Banana's
Attach motor rentention, by first test fitting and sanding.
Put thin layer of epoxy on both retainer & tube.
Use a twisting motion when installing.
I always wipe of any excess glue from interior with denatured alcohol, then drop a motor in, making sure of a good fit....before glue dries.
Set aside for epoxy to cure.
Before we forget [like I usually do] 2 must do's before going any further while glue cures:
1st slide nose cone coupler/av-bay into fin slot end of airframe, and use the slots to mark for 3 equal points around the coupler.
These will be transferred from coupler to vent band for altimeter breather hole & on NC for shear pin locations later.
2nd. Mark a straight line between 2 slots for mounting rail buttons later.
Put thin layer of epoxy on both retainer & tube.
Use a twisting motion when installing.
I always wipe of any excess glue from interior with denatured alcohol, then drop a motor in, making sure of a good fit....before glue dries.
Set aside for epoxy to cure.
Before we forget [like I usually do] 2 must do's before going any further while glue cures:
1st slide nose cone coupler/av-bay into fin slot end of airframe, and use the slots to mark for 3 equal points around the coupler.
These will be transferred from coupler to vent band for altimeter breather hole & on NC for shear pin locations later.
2nd. Mark a straight line between 2 slots for mounting rail buttons later.
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blackjack2564
Crazy Jim's Gone Banana's
Sand inside edge of tube on slot end where CR will be glued.
Sand each side of all 3 slots approx. 3/4 in. out from slot. [for external fillet adhesion]
Wrap and tape sandpaper to dowel...PVC..etc to reach inside and sand area where forward CR will be glued
Sand and fit fins into each slot, sand slots also if needed.
Recommended to number fins and slots, as it will always go better when time to glue.
Sand up from root edge of fins approx. 1 1/2 in. for internal & external fillet adhesion.
Internals will be injected, as I anticipate some EXTREME flights.
Sand each side of all 3 slots approx. 3/4 in. out from slot. [for external fillet adhesion]
Wrap and tape sandpaper to dowel...PVC..etc to reach inside and sand area where forward CR will be glued
Sand and fit fins into each slot, sand slots also if needed.
Recommended to number fins and slots, as it will always go better when time to glue.
Sand up from root edge of fins approx. 1 1/2 in. for internal & external fillet adhesion.
Internals will be injected, as I anticipate some EXTREME flights.
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blackjack2564
Crazy Jim's Gone Banana's
Now that epoxy on retainer has cured:
Slide CR with out notches down flush with motor retainer.
A drop or 2 of CA will hold it in place, just tack it on.
Place top CR on. Now a dry fit is in order.
Slide the assembly into airframe so you can mark MM tube through the slots.
I find by pulling the tip out of the sharpie, it is now long enough & will reach down to motor tube and you can mark slot position onto it. Put your tip back on the sharpie, done.... or use whatever method you have to mark the tubes.
Remove assembly for next step.
Since I will be injecting the internal fillets, I need a tight fit between fin & MM tube as well as fin front and back edge with the CR's. I don't want epoxy leaking under fin or around the front/back between fin and CR edge. Soooo....
You must also be sure the Y-harness when glued on the MM tube does not interfere with the fin positions.
Slide the notched CR over the Kevlar strap. By putting the excess strap inside the MM tube it will be out of the way, you can just fold over the ends leaving approx. 4in exposed.
Use the slot lines to avoid getting the Kevlar in the fin positions.
Fit the numbered fins into corresponding numbered fin line/slot positions all 3 while pressing down on the CR to hold in place.
When satisfied a drop or 2 of CA will hold the CR in position.
Remove fins and place assembly back into airframe, insert fins through slots, making sure all fits well. If not adjust for correct fit. This is why you just tack stuff at first!
When happy with final fit remove fins & assembly to glue the strap on.
I put tape over the line to keep glue off.
Make sure you check both strap positions/sides so they do not interfere with fin placement.
Put a good dose of epoxy on MM tube press strap into it and cover/encapsulate strap with more epoxy.
Do both of course...
Add a fillet to top of top CR while your at it. The bottom CR and inside of the top CR will get plenty of epoxy on them during injection!
Set aside to fully cure.
Slide CR with out notches down flush with motor retainer.
A drop or 2 of CA will hold it in place, just tack it on.
Place top CR on. Now a dry fit is in order.
Slide the assembly into airframe so you can mark MM tube through the slots.
I find by pulling the tip out of the sharpie, it is now long enough & will reach down to motor tube and you can mark slot position onto it. Put your tip back on the sharpie, done.... or use whatever method you have to mark the tubes.
Remove assembly for next step.
Since I will be injecting the internal fillets, I need a tight fit between fin & MM tube as well as fin front and back edge with the CR's. I don't want epoxy leaking under fin or around the front/back between fin and CR edge. Soooo....
You must also be sure the Y-harness when glued on the MM tube does not interfere with the fin positions.
Slide the notched CR over the Kevlar strap. By putting the excess strap inside the MM tube it will be out of the way, you can just fold over the ends leaving approx. 4in exposed.
Use the slot lines to avoid getting the Kevlar in the fin positions.
Fit the numbered fins into corresponding numbered fin line/slot positions all 3 while pressing down on the CR to hold in place.
When satisfied a drop or 2 of CA will hold the CR in position.
Remove fins and place assembly back into airframe, insert fins through slots, making sure all fits well. If not adjust for correct fit. This is why you just tack stuff at first!
When happy with final fit remove fins & assembly to glue the strap on.
I put tape over the line to keep glue off.
Make sure you check both strap positions/sides so they do not interfere with fin placement.
Put a good dose of epoxy on MM tube press strap into it and cover/encapsulate strap with more epoxy.
Do both of course...
Add a fillet to top of top CR while your at it. The bottom CR and inside of the top CR will get plenty of epoxy on them during injection!
Set aside to fully cure.
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blackjack2564
Crazy Jim's Gone Banana's
reserved for continuity...
After the MM assembly has cured, Insert into fin can, making sure # fins & #slots align.
Check to see that Y-harness is clear of slots.
Butter, or thin coat the root edge of all 3 fins with epoxy, and place into slots.
Align fins with your favorite method. I have visual jig I place tube on and align by sighting fins on lines jig.
To keep fins from slipping out of position, I apply 1 drop of CA to slot/fin joint, which locks it into position till epoxy cures.
Once the fins are cured..... Prepare for external fillets.
I use a 1in diameter section of PVC to smooth them, & also mark beforehand, where the tape will go to keep glue off tube.
Simply coat the edge with Sharpie then rub in V-groove to mark , carbon paper etc.
Then drill 1 hole centered on each side of fin, close to slot, for injecting epoxy. Close to fin so external fillet will cover hole & only large enough to fit whatever size syringe you are using into hole.
After the MM assembly has cured, Insert into fin can, making sure # fins & #slots align.
Check to see that Y-harness is clear of slots.
Butter, or thin coat the root edge of all 3 fins with epoxy, and place into slots.
Align fins with your favorite method. I have visual jig I place tube on and align by sighting fins on lines jig.
To keep fins from slipping out of position, I apply 1 drop of CA to slot/fin joint, which locks it into position till epoxy cures.
Once the fins are cured..... Prepare for external fillets.
I use a 1in diameter section of PVC to smooth them, & also mark beforehand, where the tape will go to keep glue off tube.
Simply coat the edge with Sharpie then rub in V-groove to mark , carbon paper etc.
Then drill 1 hole centered on each side of fin, close to slot, for injecting epoxy. Close to fin so external fillet will cover hole & only large enough to fit whatever size syringe you are using into hole.
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blackjack2564
Crazy Jim's Gone Banana's
reserved for build again.
Tape to the lines previously drawn. You can see the tool fits right to the edge, so there will be no lip of glue when tape removed.
If it does not, remove and re-tape to correct.
I use size ...1in. tool, to get the correct fillet size....approx. 6% of the root length of fin.
Tape bottom fin joints to prevent glue leaking out if during injection of top fins a leak under fins occurs.
Proper amount of glue for injection of internal fillets is approx. 9ml per fin.
1 pump of West resin is 15ml.
1 pump of West hardener is 3ml.
So 1 pump of each works out perfect for this build ....18ml.... any more and glue will come out the injection hole or leak around front of fin/cr joint.
Add about a dime size of chopped carbon if you have it and mix till all the bundles break up. [or kevlar pulp, milled fiberglass ]
I marked my syringe for 15ml and 7.5ml with sharpie [ahead of time by filling with water measured, and marking]
I cut tip at angle and to enlarge hole to make filling easier.
Inject half into each fin. Refill with remaining and inject half into each again.
Tape to the lines previously drawn. You can see the tool fits right to the edge, so there will be no lip of glue when tape removed.
If it does not, remove and re-tape to correct.
I use size ...1in. tool, to get the correct fillet size....approx. 6% of the root length of fin.
Tape bottom fin joints to prevent glue leaking out if during injection of top fins a leak under fins occurs.
Proper amount of glue for injection of internal fillets is approx. 9ml per fin.
1 pump of West resin is 15ml.
1 pump of West hardener is 3ml.
So 1 pump of each works out perfect for this build ....18ml.... any more and glue will come out the injection hole or leak around front of fin/cr joint.
Add about a dime size of chopped carbon if you have it and mix till all the bundles break up. [or kevlar pulp, milled fiberglass ]
I marked my syringe for 15ml and 7.5ml with sharpie [ahead of time by filling with water measured, and marking]
I cut tip at angle and to enlarge hole to make filling easier.
Inject half into each fin. Refill with remaining and inject half into each again.
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blackjack2564
Crazy Jim's Gone Banana's
I came up with this and many other tips years ago. They are in all of Wildmans instructions.
At the top of high power here, is a "sticky" called how to build a DarkStar step by step.It really should be called how to build ANY fiberglass rocket as every tip and detail I could think of is listed in that build with a complete index at the beginning.
Highly recommend anyone new into building glass kits, to read this in it's entirety. Many....many questions I see asked over and over are answered right there...all in one place.
blackjack2564
Crazy Jim's Gone Banana's
Reserved for U know what.
Decided to go back basics with external fillets by using my original method....West epoxy with 406 filler [ colloidial silica].
Use the same amount as in internal fillets 15ml resin & 3ml hardener [ 1 pump of each] and added 406 until consistency was stiff like peanut butter
I added some black tint that came with RocketPoxy....wow ...worked great. Black fillets. Painting them here, but I know it will work for future.
When pulling fillets smooth, decided to run fillet around rear of fin.
Pulled tape about 10 minutes after smoothing fillets
Decided to go back basics with external fillets by using my original method....West epoxy with 406 filler [ colloidial silica].
Use the same amount as in internal fillets 15ml resin & 3ml hardener [ 1 pump of each] and added 406 until consistency was stiff like peanut butter
I added some black tint that came with RocketPoxy....wow ...worked great. Black fillets. Painting them here, but I know it will work for future.
When pulling fillets smooth, decided to run fillet around rear of fin.
Pulled tape about 10 minutes after smoothing fillets
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blackjack2564
Crazy Jim's Gone Banana's
Last few items to finish off the airframe:
Vent hole to relieve air pressure from airframe is place 11in. from top of tube, 1/8in. hole.
Place on rear, above the rail buttons to keep from interfering with vinyl.
1010 rail-buttons installed by drilling 1/8 in. holes and self-tapping the screws into airframe.
Place button by rear fin & other a tad above front, to miss the CR.
Vent hole to relieve air pressure from airframe is place 11in. from top of tube, 1/8in. hole.
Place on rear, above the rail buttons to keep from interfering with vinyl.
1010 rail-buttons installed by drilling 1/8 in. holes and self-tapping the screws into airframe.
Place button by rear fin & other a tad above front, to miss the CR.
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grouch
Well-Known Member
OK so spill the beans, how well does it fly???
blackjack2564
Crazy Jim's Gone Banana's
Dear Grouchy......LOL...please go back up to post #97 and read the complete flight report......short version though is:
FANTASTIC..... beyond all expectations of the design, this is a real performer ....oopps I mean...".PUNISHER".:dark:
One of the best flying rockets I have ever seen.
Jim - who made the decals?
blackjack2564
Crazy Jim's Gone Banana's
He did....my fly'n buddy [Don Ball]. He used to cut all those THOR decals for BSD...back in the day.
We talked about making a few sets, but "weeding" the vinyl [removing the cut part you don't want] is such a pain in the butt. It's still up in the air. a few drinks...some rock & roll blasting and he might be persuaded.
Then he might turn over the files to Mark at Sticker Shock if he's interested. There were over 100 something of these things sold.
I think these are one of our best ''collaborations" for getting the overall look, theme & feel of the rocket.
The intent from the beginning was for the P to go on the black stripe but I did not tell him that. Then at the last minute he changed the U to a skull & as luck would have it....still fit perfectly on the black.
blackjack2564
Crazy Jim's Gone Banana's
grouch
Well-Known Member
Crap, my skimming skills need an overhaul. Totally missed that.
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