Wildman Carbon Mach 2 Build

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FlyBy01

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During the Wildman Black-Friday Sales the Carbon Mach 2 was just too good t pass up on. I do not have the kit yet but this is just a teaser on some parts that are waiting for this speed machine. Enjoy the pics and thank you for those that post these .stl files on thingiverse!
 

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During the Wildman Black-Friday Sales the Carbon Mach 2 was just too good t pass up on. I do not have the kit yet but this is just a teaser on some parts that are waiting for this speed machine. Enjoy the pics and thank you for those that post these .stl files on thingiverse!
How much BP do those canisters hold?

Nice and compact, I like it.
 
1.1 grams by weight and 1.2 grams by volume ( measured with 4FFFF)
FYI, I only needed .5g (with .75g for backup charge) on mine.
A tip if you want to fit a 6XL case, get a second 1" switch band for a little more drogue room. Then for min-dia retainer (if not doing friction fit), use a fiberglass bulkhead with an appropriate sized bolt epoxied in. 1/4 or 1/2" of coupler epoxied either side if worried about strength.
 
Weighing in, sorry it’s been a while. Waiting on parts for building. Avbay almost done.
 

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Received a Wildman order today with hardware for various projects to include a screw switch that only added 6 grams (.2 oz) including mounting hardware to the Avbay.
 

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AvBay completed other than a little bit more sanding and drilling for shear pins. Wildman shipped the remaining minimum diameter equipment that is needed. I don't know if this is possible but I would like to use the AeroPack adaptor system to use a 54mm 426 for the East Coast and go crazy with a 54mm 1706 case out West. Please let me know if anyone has tried this?
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A tip if you want to fit a 6XL case, get a second 1" switch band for a little more drogue room. Then for min-dia retainer (if not doing friction fit), use a fiberglass bulkhead with an appropriate sized bolt epoxied in. 1/4 or 1/2" of coupler epoxied either side if worried about strength.

I believe I've figured out how to get the Loki 54/2800 in the WM Mach 2. I need to get started on that build eventually.. I'll be sure to share at that point. I'd like to fly that at Airfest '25 if possible.
 
A box of goodies from Wildman that includes the motor retainer, shock cords, nomex parachute protection, fly-away-rail guide. More building soon; I have several projects in the works but more in a week or so.
 

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I don't know if this is possible but I would like to use the AeroPack adaptor system to use a 54mm 426 for the East Coast and go crazy with a 54mm 1706 case out West. Please let me know if anyone has tried this?

Yes, 100% that can be done. Use a forward threaded closure on the 54/426 and us a mix of threaded rods and threaded adapters as necessary. Aeropack may not sell everything but I am sure that McMaster has everything you would need.
 
Did you have a link to the thingiverse file you used? I am looking for something similar for a RRC2.
 
Used a sharpie to measure the top of the retainer and did the old glue sandpaper to a dowel rod trick. It seems to have worked and I am trying to install the retainer this week and get brave enough to put the fins on. I am going to order 1/8" kevlar instead of the One Bad Hawk harness to gain more space for a 30" in thin-mil parachute. This is a new experience of no darn room.

Why do we put the main in the nose cone? Just venting a bit.
 

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Used a sharpie to measure the top of the retainer and did the old glue sandpaper to a dowel rod trick. It seems to have worked and I am trying to install the retainer this week and get brave enough to put the fins on. I am going to order 1/8" kevlar instead of the One Bad Hawk harness to gain more space for a 30" in thin-mil parachute. This is a new experience of no darn room.

Why do we put the main in the nose cone? Just venting a bit.
Because head end deploy gives two distinct advantages IMO. One, you basically eliminate the length and weight of a traditional upper airframe. Two, the nose cone, albeit small really forces you to consider as small of a chute and cord as necessary to bring the fin can back intact. 20K+ and mach 2 plus ain't no trivial effort. :)
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So just an idea for anyone using Proline 4500 to keep the epoxy from getting in the body tube where you don't want it; try rolling some printer paper and use it as a liner while putting in the epoxy. Once the epoxy is in slide out the paper and throw it away.

I did remove the motor case once I saw that the retainer would not move. I am so happy I did because I found a small amount of epoxy on the motor case and a little alcohol took the epoxy right off. Overall it appears that I have a good seal.
 

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The fins are on and looking to get the fillets done in the next couple of weeks. I think the most nerve racking part is my wanting to have perfect placement and alignment.
 

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