Waterslide decal best practices discussion

[Marc_G]

Hi folks,

I'm trying to improve my craft and so I'm seeking some advice on things related to waterslide decals.

I have a few issues that come up:
1. Sometimes they get "wrinkly" and I can't seem to flatten them out on the model.
2. Sometimes, the edge of one will apparently curl under, creating sort of a double-layer that I have great difficulty un-doing without damaging the decal.
3. Silvering when applying to a flat paint matte surface
4. Even after applying Future polish, sometimes my sweaty hands stick to the decals out on the range during handling of the rocket, and pulls off the decals.

There are lots of considerations:
A. What sort of surface are they going onto? Smooth glossy paint versus say a very flat surface of uncoated fluorescent paint.
B. Any practical difference between (current) Estes decals vs. Excelsior productions versus do-it-yourself?
C. Topcoating with Future vs. clear coats
(just to name a few)

Here is my current practice and I'm curious to see if I'm doing something wrong:

1. If the model is glossy already, proceed to step 2. If the model is flat, I coat it with clear enamel or lacquer. I've read the posts where people caution the clears can become brittle.

2. To prep the decals I use warm water to with a drop of soap and my own superstition is to add maybe 5% volume of Future. The idea in my brain is that when the water dries it would leave behind a thin coat of future sort of as a glue.

3. I try to pull the backing off with a sliding motion so the decal sucks onto the model... but sometimes I get that awful curl-under...

4. Recently, before applying the decal, I've been rubbing that area of the model with straight Future as it seems to make it easier to slide the decal around.

5. Also recently, I've been tamping the decal down with a damp paper towel, also with a bit of Future in it, and pressing down on the decal to squeeze out excess water underneath. This seems to flatten them down a bit.

I've previously overcoated with clear enamel, though over the winter switched to Future... I still get the peeling decals sometimes, though more on models that were flat when I put the decal down.

I'm interested to hear your own tricks and tips!

MArc

 

[Micromeister]

Marc:
I've been making my own decals for Many years; Silkscreening, hand lettered, Alps, and inkjet. After reading your post I immediately see one of your 2 biggest problems.

PLEASE! Do NOT add dishwashing detergent or soap to your waterslide decal water. THIS IS why your adhesives are NOT sticking. Detergents leave a very fine trace residue preventing the adhesive from attaching the decal to the model surface. The Only thing holding the decal on at that point is surface tension created by the lack of air between the decal (paint film) and surface of your model. This is why your decals are coming off with sweaty hands. You're simply creating a better vacuum between your hand and the decal then there is between the decal and the surface of the model. Warm to cool water is just fine for decal soaking.
Also remove the Future from the water, This practice combined with the detergent is completely negating the water activated adhesive on the back of the decal sheet.

If we were applying Vinyl "sticker" type decals then a detergent added "wetting agent" (two drops in a Quart of water) is used to allow positioning & re-positioning of the stickers before the water is squeegeed out. Then re-squeegee'ed a second time about an hour later. But remember this method is ONLY FOR ADHESIVED BACKED VINYL decals, not water slide.

Instead of "Future" pre-wet the decal area on the model with a wet paper towel. These droplets of pure water will give you plenty of time to move the decal around with the corner of a folded dampened paper towel or small "STIFF" paint brush bristles.

Curl unders can be un-done with your water wet paintbrush or by sliding the decal back onto the backing paper BEFORE it has been completely removed. Small very fine tweezers can also be used to undo folded corners if they haven't been creased hard enough to break the paint film.

Future and Micro Scale Decal Film liquid are to be used over DRIED on the model, Finished DECALS. Micro Scale also has a Decal SET solution that "helps" soften the decal paint film enough for the decal to conform to very fine details, depressions and around tight curves.

Please remember waterslide decals are at best very thin silkscreened Inks, at worst super thin thremal printer transfer paint films. If you keep in mind your dealing with a dryed paint film somewhere in the neighborhood of .002" thick and semi rigid you may have a little better luck with your applications. Avoid folding decal sheets or even bending them sharply while cutting out decals with scissors. Where possible use an X-acto knife to rough out the decal then carefully trim the piece with filigree cutting scissors.

Silvering is something we can't get away from if we are tyring to apply decals to any type of Flat, or semi-gloss surface. to prevent "silvering" the surface MUST be smooth and glossy. For most flat color models we generally paint them gloss, decal, then use a matte clear medium overcoat to flatten the colors. Flourescent Rattlecan paints will required a bit more work. Usually requiring several coats of some sort of Gloss Clear, YES Future will work. Then a very fine sanding to smoothout the surface before a high gloss coat, then decals, then final Future protective coat.
Recently I've been experimenting with Krylon #1305 UV resistant clear over Rustoleum Flourescent paints before decaling with good success, the Rustoleum color coat MUST be NOSE to the Paint dry first. That is with your nose on the Painted surface if you can smell solvent ...it isn't dry!

If you'd like to visit the library section of www.narhams.org under tech-tips, download Tech-tip-016 "Making decals", this article may help as well.
Hope these tips help.

 

[FatBoy]

I've never had a problem doing it this way:
1. Brush Micro Set onto surface
2. Apply and position decal
3. Daub with paper towel
4. Apply Micro Sol
5. Let dry