3D Printing Trying a new printer setup

[Michael L]

Some of the filament that I plan to print with is hydroscopic. Even PETG gave me some trouble. I printed with a couple of spools over the course of a week and I left them on the printer spool holder. I think that was the issue. I might have been the worn out brass nozzle (I did a lot of glow in the dark printing for Halloween). I printed a lot of different things over the course of a month of 3D printer ownership so I can't really say one way or the other if this is necessary, useful, bs, etc, Ie it's not an endorsement or even a suggestion (I do like their vacuum sealing containers though).

This is the extremely high tech setup that I'm trying out Spare bedroom, empty monitor box, plywood for rocket fins for a base. Print Dryer Pro (bought from Matter Hackers), Prusa i3 MK3s, PETG filament in the dryer, holding at 65 degrees C. The spool of filament (two of them actually) was put in the dryer this morning. I ran it for 5 hours with no printer connection and then set it up like you see here. The print time is 5 hours and change so I set the timer to 6 hours. I'll switch to blue PETG once this one has successfully completed. So far so good...

 

[cwbullet]

PETG can be tough to print if your LIVE Z is off even e smidge.

 

[Michael L]

Great observation!! I spent about an hour on first layer calibration last night and I think I finally have it right. I literally changed z height by one or two clicks when I did the last calibration.

I use a Prusa powder coated plate when I print PETG, ASA, etc. Adhesion typically isn't a problem with th pc plate. Even after cleaning (with alcohol, Windex only for the smooth plate) I was having problems with parts of the print lifting. I tried a product from Vision Miner that they call Nano Polymer Adhesive. I don't know the how, what, or why of it but the problem with lack of adhesion vanished after I used it. I started the second print, which is the same gcode with a different color filament and it's running great. It didn't take much...

Side note - the red Prusament PETG printed fine with the exception of one fin lifting slightly. I started having severe layer adhesion and obvious z height problems when I switched to blue. That seems odd.

One tail cone section has printed and the other will be off of the printer in about 2 hours.

 

[cwbullet]

Great observation!! I spent about an hour on first layer calibration last night and I think I finally have it right. I literally changed z height by one or two clicks when I did the last calibration.

I use a Prusa powder coated plate when I print PETG, ASA, etc. Adhesion typically isn't a problem with th pc plate. Even after cleaning (with alcohol, Windex only for the smooth plate) I was having problems with parts of the print lifting. I tried a product from Vision Miner that they call Nano Polymer Adhesive. I don't know the how, what, or why of it but the problem with lack of adhesion vanished after I used it. I started the second print, which is the same gcode with a different color filament and it's running great. It didn't take much...

Side note - the red Prusament PETG printed fine with the exception of one fin lifting slightly. I started having severe layer adhesion and obvious z height problems when I switched to blue. That seems odd.

One tail cone section has printed and the other will be off of the printer in about 2 hours.

Good to know. If it doesn't stick:

1. Check your live Z (z offset)
2. Clean your bed
3. dehydrate your filament.

 

[Michael L]

Quick post about a recent printing experience regarding point #2. BTW, In my limited experience with 3D printing all three are 100% spot on.

I am printing the ribbons in the video link below for an upcoming meeting (2021). The idea is for the team (150+ people) to wear one to show support for our boss (recent mastectomy) and one of the ladies whose mother was diagnosed with stage 4 breast cancer when we can all meet in person. Neither lady is aware of the plan.

This is the first raft of 24 ribbons.



The ribbons in the video above came out perfect. While cleaning the bed for the next round of printing I accidentally put my thumb on the bed. I noticed a slight imprint on the bed but only made a half "way" attempt to clean the thumb print off. I put the bed on the printer and started printing the second round. It's almost a 4 hour job. I checked it about 10 or 15 minutes into the print and on the exact location that my thumb print was located the ribbon had disbonded from the bed and one ribbon was a snarl of filament. I stopped the print, cleaned the bed, and restarted. As of now I've got 96 printed successfully with only the problem I just listed.

Clean is not relative. It has to be done right every time...

 

[jpatton]

What are your thoughts on the print dryer? I have looked at both building one or buying that one for printing Nylon due to problems with longer prints and humidity. I'd be interested to hear what all you think of that system. Thanks for the time.

 

[Michael L]

So far I like it. Temp setting and timer setting is easy. It comes with a spool storage box and a hand pump to pull a vacuum on the box once the filament is inside and the latches are latched. If I'm not printing at the time it's dried I move the warm spool of filament to the spool storage box and pull a vacuum on it. I also put desiccant packages (supplied) in the storage box.

The PETG and PLA that I dried worked well. As cwbullet noted and you probably already know, a clean bed is a must. I have some CF / Nylon that I want to try. That's the real reason that I bought the filament drier.

I know that some of the PETG that I dried was wet due to the failure mode I was seeing. Once I dried the filament it printed great. I fed from the drier, while it was operating, to the extruder. I'd like to build something to elevate the drier above the printer. My cardboard box method is a bit sketchy. I received the enclosure I ordered on the day that I left to visit family in TX so I don't know if it's a good buy or not. It can't hurt...