SATURN IB

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Montaro

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I Convertered this SATURN IB to fix a 18mm Motor, i'm thinking to use a D13-4 this model was desinged for display and all the stage could be separated, So I joined the S-IB, Interstage & S-IVB as Body and the rest will be the nose. As i used in all my models i integrated a ejection baffle and buzzer.

Because the small fins I should add alot of weight nose, the final weight is 200 Gr.


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Very nice! Which model is this? What scale? Got a link? :)
Even though it's a bit on the smaller side compared to your other builds, the Saturn 1 SA-5 here makes a great conversion, too., if you want to extend you Saturn 1 family.
 
Very nice! Which model is this? What scale? Got a link? :)
Even though it's a bit on the smaller side compared to your other builds, the Saturn 1 SA-5 here makes a great conversion, too., if you want to extend you Saturn 1 family.

Is in the same page, I posted the link :D
I Convertered this SATURN IB

Is a 1:96, This is my first 1:96 I like the 1:48, I was refusing to build a 1:96 Models, but the 1:48 Models are hard to find so i gave up and start build my 1:96 Fleet. Of course my Model will be 1:48 like the ZENIT 2M.

I have to say that this model is Medium Detailed and is quite hard to build, because the instruction are no so clear, I think you need some Cardstock Modeling expertise.


Nicely done!
Thanks
 
Also, you can scale rockets down pretty easily, especially if they are in PDF form. Scaling up is tougher because sheets may get 'cut', but still not impossible.

FC
 
Also, you can scale rockets down pretty easily, especially if they are in PDF form. Scaling up is tougher because sheets may get 'cut', but still not impossible.

FC

To Scaling up from 1:96 to 1:48 could be printing in double letter, but the problem is that my printer is a small one, when i bought i looked for a double letter printer but was to expensive, the cost in the printcenter is around 2 USD per page, cardstock not included :S so is not and option for me :D

So that is the reason i start wiht 1:96
 
Finally i could launch my Saturn IB using a RMS Motor D13-4W, this is the second time i use a RMS, the first time was with the Falcon 9 and i lose the RMS Hardware, it just came out form the rocket, today i have the same situation :facepalm: , I think the ejection Charge is to strong. :confused:
Anyway the sound, flame & power of D13-4W is wonderful, you can listen my boy very excited, shouting "WOOOOOOW IT FLEW HIGHER !!!!" i love my rocket boy :)

[YOUTUBE]-CFAqRhfDnk[/YOUTUBE]


I think i have to reduce the Nose Weight
 
The kids do make it fun!!!!

Dunno about the weight, but it kinda looks like you're overpowering these puppies a bit... might go with a smaller motor-- save some money that way too! Always nicer to be able to fly more often for the same money or just a little more...

Later and keep up the good work! (KUTGW!) OL JR :)
 
The kids do make it fun!!!!

Dunno about the weight, but it kinda looks like you're overpowering these puppies a bit... might go with a smaller motor-- save some money that way too! Always nicer to be able to fly more often for the same money or just a little more...

Later and keep up the good work! (KUTGW!) OL JR :)

This is the first time i hear about overpowering, how is that how do you noted ? the final weight was 200 gr.

Yes you are right about the cheaper motors, but i'm learning about RMS Motors :D
 
Wow, those are some great pics! Did you get your motor case back? It sure sucks to lose a motor case-- I just had one kick out the back of one of my rockets on Saturday. I think maybe the solution would be to zip-tie the case to the hook, rather than trying to keep it in with just the hook/blue tape. :2:
 
Wow, those are some great pics! Did you get your motor case back? It sure sucks to lose a motor case-- I just had one kick out the back of one of my rockets on Saturday. I think maybe the solution would be to zip-tie the case to the hook, rather than trying to keep it in with just the hook/blue tape. :2:

Yes, Fortunately i found it just before got dark. sure thta suck, the first one i lose in the first launch, then i almost lose this one in the first launch, but now i'll save alot of money with this motor because i don't want to use it anymore :D

I'm scare to use it again, the ejection charge is too strong, maybe i should try reducing the Ejection Charge powder and i you say zip tie the case to the hook. the hook that i used for the hitch the nose and the parachute line broke. maybe was the ejection plus a delayed ejection.

P3170086aaaa.jpg
 
This is the first time i hear about overpowering, how is that how do you noted ? the final weight was 200 gr.

Yes you are right about the cheaper motors, but i'm learning about RMS Motors :D

Because of the way it just LEAPT off the pad near instantly... for scale models, there's something to be said for a "slower, more realistic" liftoff, which of course also means it doesn't fly as high, but then, sheer maximum altitude isn't the whole idea with scalers-- LOOKING AND FLYING COOL is!

That said, NASA and other "real rockets" routinely use thrust/weight ratios down as low as 1.1:1, or, stated another way, the thrust is as low as only 10% more than the liftoff weight of the rocket itself! This works because 1) NASA rockets are "actively stabilized" using engine thrust to correct the flightpath by engine gimbaling, or diverting the nozzle flow to one side or the other as needed via steering fluid injected into the nozzle... and 2) Large liquid fuelled rockets begin losing mass very quickly at liftoff as the propellants burn off, which causes the thrust/weight ratio to increase steadily as the propellant is burned, causing the rocket to accelerate faster and faster as the flight progresses. This is the reason the Saturn V shut down the center engine about 30 seconds before the outer four F-1's-- the first stage had burned off SO much propellant and the rocket was SO much lighter by that point, that the g-forces had built up to the point that the rocket would be over-accelerated with all five F-1's burning-- and they weren't throttleable, so they shut down 1, reducing the thrust from 7.5 million pounds to 6 million pounds until burnout and staging.

Our model rockets don't use thrust-to-weight ratios anywhere near this low, because we rely on aerodynamic stability, which requires a certain amount of speed (generally speaking, 25-30 mph or so leaving the launch rod) to ensure there's airflow to generate corrective forces on the fins... Typical model rocket thrust/weight ratios are around 5:1... MUCH higher than "real" rockets... SO, getting a "low-n-slow" liftoff is just that much harder... that's why typically you want to pick a motor for a scale or semiscale rocket that has a maximum recommended liftoff weight JUST OVER the "ready to launch" weight of the rocket, including the motor...

There's "suggested maximum liftoff weights" posted for most rocket motors... matching these to the weight of your rockets is a good start to not "overpowering" them...

Reloads are cool, BUT, you want to make sure you don't lose your rocket-- lost reload casings get VERY EXPENSIVE in a hurry!!!

Later and good luck! Great rocket!
OL JR :)
 
Yes, Fortunately i found it just before got dark. sure thta suck, the first one i lose in the first launch, then i almost lose this one in the first launch, but now i'll save alot of money with this motor because i don't want to use it anymore :D

I'm scare to use it again, the ejection charge is too strong, maybe i should try reducing the Ejection Charge powder and i you say zip tie the case to the hook. the hook that i used for the hitch the nose and the parachute line broke. maybe was the ejection plus a delayed ejection.

Yeah, those types of swivels are very weak... Lots of times a late ejection, fast opening of the chute at high velocity, strong ejection charge, etc. will cause them to break... sometimes they'll "straighten out" and pop open under load... I've seen them get yanked SO HARD at parachute opening that the wire will literally be completely straight sticking out from the brass part!

A better choice is the so-called "Coast-lock" type swivels... they're black in color and sold at Walmart in the fishing department, but I'm sure many sporting good stores would have them as well... they're made out of tougher material, and they have a little "lock" bend in the wire that goes around the clasp part to prevent them from being "yanked" open under a sudden heavy load... since I've started using those, no more broken swivels-- and I throw away any of the "regular" brass swivels like the ones you're using that come in a kit...

Just a little extra cheap insurance to prevent problems that can occur...

Later and good luck! OL JR :)
 
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