replacing paper transitions

[pepe]

I hate the way my paper transitions come out (seem lines mostly) . I'm trying to use thin aluminum from a soda can but this is proving difficult to shape without creasing as well as a more pronounced seem line .Anyone have tips on using aluminum cans this way ? Any other ideas would also be appreciated. Thanks

 

[tightwad]

Are you over lapping the transition edges? A picture of your transition would also help. Anyway, I would try the tab method, that is where you place a tab on the backside of the transition and then butt the edges together. Glue the transition together and fill the seam with your favorite filler and your transition would be seamless. I hope this helps.

 

[NAR29996]

Not exactly answering your question, but can you cover the seam line with something? If it's a boattail, you can cover it with a fin. If you cannot cover it, you can use wood filler to smooth out the seam. A bit more work, but you should be able to hide it pretty well.

 

[pepe]

Thanks for the tips .I'll scrap the aluminum can idea and try the tab method you describe. Off to get more copies

 

[luke strawwalker]

Thanks for the tips .I'll scrap the aluminum can idea and try the tab method you describe. Off to get more copies

Paper is quite a versatile medium... check out the paper modelers forum if you don't believe me... stuff there will blow your mind!

The tab method works well. You also need to PRE-CURL your parts as close as possible to the final shape as you can before you glue them together, and the type of glue is important too... "tacky" glues are usually more helpful for paper parts than regular white glue, and especially yellow glue. Contact cements and other non-water-based glues can help prevent warping on long seams... or "hot bonding"... (white glue can be applied to both sides of the joint, allowed to dry unjoined, and then everything lined up and joined together... then apply heat to the joint while pressing the stuff together, sorta like model airplane covering-- this will "heat set" the white glue by partially 're-melting' it which then welds the parts together...

The other thing is, for greater strength, durability, and finishing quality, be sure to soak the finished part with CA glue applied liberally to the surface and allowed to soak in til it won't sop up any more...

Works great!

later! OL JR

 

[Micromeister]

Paper is quite a versatile medium... check out the paper modelers forum if you don't believe me... stuff there will blow your mind!

The tab method works well. You also need to PRE-CURL your parts as close as possible to the final shape as you can before you glue them together, and the type of glue is important too... "tacky" glues are usually more helpful for paper parts than regular white glue, and especially yellow glue. Contact cements and other non-water-based glues can help prevent warping on long seams... or "hot bonding"... (white glue can be applied to both sides of the joint, allowed to dry unjoined, and then everything lined up and joined together... then apply heat to the joint while pressing the stuff together, sorta like model airplane covering-- this will "heat set" the white glue by partially 're-melting' it which then welds the parts together...

The other thing is, for greater strength, durability, and finishing quality, be sure to soak the finished part with CA glue applied liberally to the surface and allowed to soak in til it won't sop up any more...

Works great!

later! OL JR

Second everything Luke typed. Forget the aluminum can material as it violates the Mod-Roc safety code anyway.

 

[plano-doug]

I hate the way my paper transitions come out (seem lines mostly) . I'm trying to use thin aluminum from a soda can but this is proving difficult to shape without creasing as well as a more pronounced seem line .Anyone have tips on using aluminum cans this way ? Any other ideas would also be appreciated. Thanks

I use card stock and also 1/64" plywood, with good results. As for the seams, covering them can be done using filler. But it takes a little practice.

Doug

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[bjphoenix]

As for the seams, covering them can be done using filler. But it takes a little practice.

Good point- try making some samples for practice before you make the real ones for your project.