Python Rocketry Custom NCs

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mIcahel

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 19, 2009
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Thanks to Python Rocketry for this killer custom fiberglass cone. Dan knew all the right questions to ask to make sure this 16" NC would work
great for my project. He sent status updates and photos along the way and asked for input at key points in the process. The great thing about
doing business with a fellow enthusiast is that they get the details correct. He even went out of the way to save on shipping costs.

Pyton Rock NC 123013.jpg
 
Thank you, Michael for your order and that review. Yours was the first official order and my largest cone so far. I had fun making it and learned a lot. I hope to make it to your launch and see it fly!
Thanks
Dan Schwartz
 
Well ... that's impressive. :eyepop:

What profile is the NC and how long is that rocket going to be?

When it flies, I'm pretty sure it is going to be a "main attraction" of the launch!

Greg
 
OK how much, looks like you are going to make us ask?


TA
 
OK so this is unconventional ( so am I ) but I have a question. How much do you think you would pay?
There is no one else that has ever sold cones like this, so I have no comparison; I don't know the going rate for a six foot nose cone. The materials cost for that cone was about $180 and there are a lot of hours in making it. I could use cheaper foam and may get more efficient at building.
Any comments, a poll, especially from anyone who has made a nose cone, or who has or wants to build a large nonstandard rocket ????
If you say it's worth 500, I promise not to raise the price, I'm just very curious.
I do appreciate any input.
 
I have made cones on my CNC router- by cutting out step-sided discs and stacking them up over a central tube and then glassing.

A 7.5" Cherokee cone took about 2 hours of design, calculation, drawing and toolpathing. On my newer large router I could probably cut all the peices for a cone like that in one go, so maybe another hour of cutting/set-up. Then an hour to glue the thing together. I glassed it by doing it in 4 hemispheres with 7ish oz glass. Each piece took about 45 minutes to apply, so there's another 3 hours of work. It's slow glassing because each piece must go to leather/green before the next one can be done BUT the end result is ready for filler and some sanding, it ends up being very smooth and tight at the tip.

So, 6 hours without materials.... that's $180, I use cheap blue foam from Home Depot (actually from Geneseo Lumber, but it's the same stuff, Dow 2" x 2' x 8'). Add on the center tube and a piece of coupler, a yard of fabric. This is a decent way to make a one off. I think there's a better way given that I have a CNC router, we'll have to see in the future. No, it's not a 4th axis... :)

I think your pricing is really fair. The cones I've made have been kits- you get a box of loose discs.... cost is lower, but the time is the same, or more, depending on the customers glassing experience.

The hardest part for me is non-standard cones-- like the Cherokee. Sure, there's an equation for the curve but in the case of the Cherokee there is a variable that shifts it from being a straight taper cone to a regular ogive.... have to guess the amount of curve you want and hope it looks right afterwards. I have a customer who wants a set of Delta IV cones...... what the heck are they!? :)

Nat Kinsey
UpscaleCNC
 
Nat what do you use circular NC paths at various heights and diameters to achieve your cone shapes? I am planning on doing the same thing for my LPR custom cones, but i was hoping to find some sort of alternative covering to glass, i've never used it before. What adhesive do you use to fasten the multiple layers of foam together?
 
Sorry, I missed the reply... so if you're still reading.... here goes:

That is exactly how I program them. I've been doing 1/4" steps in Z with blue foam on large (4" plus) cones. If exact length is important I pocket to 1.75" from a Z zero on the table to get an area of material as close to 1.75 as I can. If exact length isn't critical I just run with 2" foam and the error is what it is.

I glued the foam together with 5 min epoxy. I suspect there's a better solution, perhaps spray-adhesive as long as you don't let the solvent eat the foam. It's important to keep a hard line of glue from appearing at the edge of the foam joints-- sanding different hardnesses in one area usually means the soft ones lose and you get a little ridge. If you use epoxy, keep the mess away from the edges.

Nat
 
Hi All,
Anyone know how to get in touch with Dan?
I've tried all conventional means available short of an international call to no avail.
Got an order to place for my L3.
Cheers,
Mark
 
Hi All,
Anyone know how to get in touch with Dan?
I've tried all conventional means available short of an international call to no avail.
Got an order to place for my L3.
Cheers,
Mark
I believe that Dan has had to hang it up due to a serious illness. His son, Ravenex, is a forum member. You may want to reach out to him.
 
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