Pre-Molded Plastic "Eyelets" in HPR

[tg08]

Hello, just had a question about the plastic eyelet-type things that come on plastic nose cones. Would you recommend using those? They seem a bit flimsy. Could I slather it in epoxy to reinforce it, and attach my shock cord to there? If not, how would you go about attaching shock cords to your nose cone?

 

[Art Upton]

No, they will break off, Drill a Screw Eye into the cone

 

[tg08]

Thank you!

 

[David Schwantz]

I like to cut off the end of the NC. Make a bulkhead that fits inside. Now you can attach to that and have a removable nose weight section.

 

[Tractionengines]

Or drill 2 holes and loop the cord thru the base of the cone.

Or cut the bottom off, add a bulkhead and an eyebolt. (The hollow tube is for adjustable nose weight, and/or a tracker.)


Or any of a multitude of other choices that are stronger than the molded loop.

I WILL hook a beeper, or flight logging altimeter (Flightsketch Mini, Eggtimer Ion, etc), strobe light, ... to the molded loop.

 

[rcktnut]

Hello, just had a question about the plastic eyelet-type things that come on plastic nose cones. Would you recommend using those? They seem a bit flimsy. Could I slather it in epoxy to reinforce it, and attach my shock cord to there? If not, how would you go about attaching shock cords to your nose cone?

That all depends on what type of material the shock cord is, weight of rocket, and the robustness of the plastic eyelet. If elastic no need for surgery on the nose cone. I even have a few HPR rockets, use tubular nylon shock cords and use the eyelets on the nose cone. Also rather than surgery do as Tractionengines did, the 2 holes and loop.

 

[K'Tesh]

The key thing... Do not make the nosecone take the shock of the parachute deploying. The parachute should be attached to the shock cord or to the metal eye bolt/ U bolt that the shock cord is attached to.

 

[-Slick-Ice]

I drill holes through the nosecone and run the shock cord through it. Depending on how much the nose cone weighs or how long the payload section is I either:
Attach the quick link right at the nose cone through the shock cord loop
Tie a knot like 2 feet from end of the shock cord so the parachute sits at the bottom of the payload section.
Loop the shock cord through itself and install a quick link on the payload side.

On larger rockets I like the parachute attached as close as possible to the nose cone. This seems to reduce the number of times I have had rocket parts hit each other and keeps the parachute from getting tangled.

If there is ANY weight in the nose cone I would not use that attachment point that is molded into the nose cone.

Pictured is the 5.5" I am working on. It has 1/2" tubular kevlar and a 5/16 316SS quick link.

 

[Capt. Eric]

I've almost always used the molded eye, and never had one break. I suppose it could be a problem if you have a heavy nose cone that ejects at high speed on a short shock cord. I'll give it a weight appropriate yank and see how it feels. Never been disappointed.

Note: I am careful to smooth out the inside of the eye after cutting the inside out. A sharp edge could cut into the eye, if it's a soft material.

 

[tg08]

. The parachute should be attached to the shock cord or to the metal eye bolt/ U bolt that the shock cord is attached to.

Yeah, I'm connecting the parachute to a quick link on the shock cord.

 

[KenECoyote]

If you're planning on abusing your rocket, I'd recommend all thread or eyelet secured in the nose.

Oftentimes you'll need to add weight to the tip, so you can also kill two birds and sink bbs into epoxy at the tip that is also holding the all thread or eyelet.

I also often build it so that I can unscrew the eyelet and add more weight if needed.

 

[Rschub]

I didn't mean to abuse my rocket, it just happened.

 

[tg08]

I also often build it so that I can unscrew the eyelet and add more weight if needed.

Thanks, that X-15 build is really neat!

 

[gburke568]

I do this most of the time.. A toggle, an eyebolt, and a washer. After installing, I put a dab of expoy on the nut to keep it from loosening.

 

[Rocketclar]

Essentially all of my NCs from 3" up I cut off the bottom and add a 54mm tube that epoxied into a CR that's fitted to the NC. That's so I can use my Eggfinder GPS sled. Most of my stuff is interchangeable as I move ebays, GPS sleds between rockets.
For smaller NCs, I usually cut off the bottom and put a plywood bulk plate in the NC with an eye screw. The plastic ones are just too weak. The arrow is an index point to align with the AF for the shear pins. I use either Al or brass shims to help in cutting the pins.

 

[cwbullet]

Or drill 2 holes and loop the cord thru the base of the cone.
View attachment 615776
Or cut the bottom off, add a bulkhead and an eyebolt. (The hollow tube is for adjustable nose weight, and/or a tracker.)
View attachment 615778View attachment 615779

Or any of a multitude of other choices that are stronger than the molded loop.

I WILL hook a beeper, or flight logging altimeter (Flightsketch Mini, Eggtimer Ion, etc), strobe light, ... to the molded loop.

What is that eyelet?

 

[sharkbait]

I didn't mean to abuse my rocket, it just happened.

That’s it Rick, I’m calling RPS, rocket protection service

 

[KenECoyote]

I didn't mean to abuse my rocket, it just happened.

Ironically, the first rocket I did this nose cone retention on was a Punisher.

 

[Tractionengines]

What is that eyelet?

I assume you mean this...I already had the Rod End Eye bolt on the bulkhead plate for a EggFinder tracker on a LabRat Sled. I just used what was at hand. A 1/4" SST Shackle. Put the screw pin thru the rod end....may not stay that way, but was "at hand" and is convenient to add other items. (beeper, flashing light, etc.)

 

[cwbullet]

I assume you mean this...I already had the Rod End Eye bolt on the bulkhead plate for a EggFinder tracker on a LabRat Sled. I just used what was at hand. A 1/4" SST Shackle. Put the screw pin thru the rod end....may not stay that way, but was "at hand" and is convenient to add other items. (beeper, flashing light, etc.)

Thanks

 

[Handeman]

I've almost always used the molded eye, and never had one break. I suppose it could be a problem if you have a heavy nose cone that ejects at high speed on a short shock cord. I'll give it a weight appropriate yank and see how it feels. Never been disappointed.

Note: I am careful to smooth out the inside of the eye after cutting the inside out. A sharp edge could cut into the eye, if it's a soft material.

I did the same, until my L2 cert fight when I used a quick link on the eyelet instead of tying the shock cord to it. I lost the nose cone and had to use another nose cone and re-fly the attempt. I did get to fly a K and a J motor that day so it wasn't a total loss, other than the cheap nose cone.

 

[KenECoyote]

I just used what was at hand. A 1/4" SST Shackle. Put the screw pin thru the rod end....may not stay that way...

Looks very cool!

These are like mini versions of the ones on offroad vehicles for witching, etc.

I have small ones like yours which I got years ago; however, I haven't used them yet.

If you're not already using good threadlock on it, I'd suggest using wire to fasten the pin to the loop so that it doesn't back out by itself. Highly unlikely, but I've heard of stranger things going wrong.

 

[Tractionengines]

Yep. Safety wire the pin. Easy cheap insurance. All non removable nuts get a little lock locktite. [ enough I know it's not going anywhere, but I might be able to remove it if I needed to.]