MJG black powder ematch and pro cast

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Fireball

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Building my first 3 engine cluster. 24mm mmt. Gonna start with black powder motors and move to composite. I have a bunch of MJB bp ematches and am thinking of dipping with pro cast for a more positive ignition. Do I need to do this or am I overthinking this. Also will the pro cast work with the bp ematches?
Thanks
Steve
 
The MJG BP starters should already have some pyrogen on them. A thin dip of ProCast will be more energetic and should help. As with any cluster, check the resistance of the starters before selecting and installing.
Thank you
 
When you go to composite motors you will need the dipped ematches, unless you're using CTI motors with the BP pellet in them. You can't start AT motors with an ematch. (Yeah, I know that somebody is going to chime in how they start Blue Thunder motors with an ematch... don't count on being able to airstart one that way.)
 
Building my first 3 engine cluster. 24mm mmt. Gonna start with black powder motors and move to composite. I have a bunch of MJB bp ematches and am thinking of dipping with pro cast for a more positive ignition. Do I need to do this or am I overthinking this. Also will the pro cast work with the bp ematches?
Thanks
Steve
For composite clusters I use MJG firewire initiators dipped in Procast and then dipped in sealer.

I did some tests with 3 in parallel and the e-matches ignited essentially at the same time (all in one frame in a 30fps video) and the pyrogen 1-2 frames within the same time to reach the same size flame. Not very precise testing but in cluster launches igniting Aerotech MetalStorm propellant, these have worked perfectly.
 
Building my first 3 engine cluster. 24mm mmt. Gonna start with black powder motors and move to composite. I have a bunch of MJB bp ematches and am thinking of dipping with pro cast for a more positive ignition. Do I need to do this or am I overthinking this. Also will the pro cast work with the bp ematches?
You're on the right track. With black powder motors, you will not need to dip the MJG bp starters, but as others have said, they are unlikely to light composites in their stock form.

Dipped in procast, they should be fine for 24mm composites. So far I've used them successfully with clusters of E28s (Blue Thunder) and E35s (White Lightening).

I would recommend ground testing your cluster when you're first getting started with composites. It's painful to burn motors on the ground without a flight, but it's less painful than crashing a rocket on only one motor. I learned this the hard way.

Also, to be on the safe side, I try to design clustered rockets so they have sufficient takeoff speed if one motor doesn't light if it's a black powder cluster, or two motors don't light if it's a composite cluster.
 
For composite clusters I use MJG firewire initiators dipped in Procast and then dipped in sealer.

I did some tests with 3 in parallel and the e-matches ignited essentially at the same time (all in one frame in a 30fps video) and the pyrogen 1-2 frames within the same time to reach the same size flame. Not very precise testing but in cluster launches igniting Aerotech MetalStorm propellant, these have worked perfectly.
What are you using for sealer if I may ask
 
Ok so I'm a bit late to this thread... the reason is I tried to get onto QB's website and got nothing but 404's. Then I found this... MAJOR bummer. So who besides apogee will be selling quick dip, procast and all the other goodies? To be needlessly blunt (and apologies for being snippy), I'm not in inclined to pay above list price if I have to pay shipping as well.
 
The Quickburst website is down because the hosting service went out of business after 22 years. He’s getting another provider set up now. Might take a couple days.
 
You can often find, or could find, nitrocellulose lacquer in hardware and paint stores. For instance, I have some Sterling clear lacquer that has nitrocellulose, and a spray can of Deft Clear Finish that lists nitrocellulose. I don't know if they're as good as nail polish., Beacon 527 lists nitrocellulose as an ingredient. I have made some successful igniters by mixing graphite with it and applying to two very closely spaced wires, followed by something similar to Richard Nakka's RNX* as a pyrolant and protective coating. I think it takes a bit more zip than you'd get from a 9 volt alkaline, though. I actually wind two magnet wires together, glue them together, sand off the insulation, and apply the coatings. It's impossible to sand the insulation that's actually between the wires. The only thing is that my VOM doesn't understand that these are conductive. It waffles, and then decides the resistance is infinite. However, when power is applied, they work fine. I wonder how Beacon 527 and a bit of KNO3 would work as a pyrolant. Incidentally, some other glues have nitrocellulose. I think Duco is one of them. Then there's something called Fab Tac. And nitrate dope.

A traditional plasticizer for nitrocellulose dope is castor oil. Perhaps a drop or two of that per ounce would keep things a bit flexible. Also camphor, but I don't know where you get that. I have heard rumors of oil of almond oil (not almond extract), wintergreen and even mothballs used as plasticizers, though I'm guessing the latter eventually evaporates and disappears. There is also something called Flex-All.
 
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