I found an old (maybe two years old) can of Krylon primer, so I thought I would use some to cover some Rustoleum primer before spraying possibly incompatible Dupli-color lacquer (because I could spray very light coats of primer and easily sand off any orange peel or roughness). It has to be the worst primer I have ever used. The can kept clogging if I pushed the nozzle too hard or at the wrong angle, and soaking the nozzle in acetone did nothing. It kept spitting yellow stuff as I painted, and the paint came out in big drops, leaving a rough sandpapery finish. I kept using it because I figured it would be easy enough to sand down, but I didn't realize that Krylon primer is not sandable. After 24 hours, it wouldn't sand. It just gummed up the sandpaper, but I was able to kind of polish it to a mostly smooth finish with the clogged sandpaper. I waited another day, and it wasn't any better. I put it in my curing oven set to low heat (about 110-120F) to see if that would help, but after two ~6 hour cycles, 24 hours apart, it was still not dry! I waited a couple days and put it in the oven for a third cycle, and now (24 hours later) it was finally dry enough to sand properly. After getting it smooth. I immediately covered the Krylon with Dupli-color filler primer, which I should have used in the first place (but I didn't because it's expensive), and it looks much better.
Krylon Primer
- Thread starter m85476585
- Start date
Help Support The Rocketry Forum:
foose4string
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2009
- Messages
- 2,853
- Reaction score
- 8
I use the Krylon gray primer all the time. I usually only have to wait a day or two to sand it, depending on the humidity. I've found it very easy to work with.
The rust colored primer isn't bad either, but takes a little longer to fully dry, and the color isn't a good base for most of my top coats. The white primer, I'm not very fond of. Takes a long time to dry and doesn't have much solids in it, making it poor for filling those little pinholes that the wood filler missed.
I give the Krylon gray primer a thumbs up. Since I'm generally using Krylon paints, I like to stick with Krylon primer since I know it's compatible.
The rust colored primer isn't bad either, but takes a little longer to fully dry, and the color isn't a good base for most of my top coats. The white primer, I'm not very fond of. Takes a long time to dry and doesn't have much solids in it, making it poor for filling those little pinholes that the wood filler missed.
I give the Krylon gray primer a thumbs up. Since I'm generally using Krylon paints, I like to stick with Krylon primer since I know it's compatible.
I have the white primer.
I think I'm going to stick with Dupli-color primer for now, even though it's expensive, because it works about as well as Rustoleum primer. I will do some testing with Rustoleum primer + Krylon paint because Rustoleum primer is relatively cheap and gives me good results. I emailed Rustoleum support about spraying Krylon paint over their primer, and they told me to wait something like a month before coating their primer with Krylon, but maybe that's just to discourage me from using Krylon paint instead of theirs.
Here's what I typically pay for paint:
Dupli-color: A bit over $5/can at auto parts stores. I've heard it is cheaper at Wal-mart.
Krylon: $4.77 (I think) at Hobby Lobby, but they almost always have 40% off coupons and sometimes have sales on Krylon.
Rustoleum: A little over $3 per can at Home Depot.
I think I'm going to stick with Dupli-color primer for now, even though it's expensive, because it works about as well as Rustoleum primer. I will do some testing with Rustoleum primer + Krylon paint because Rustoleum primer is relatively cheap and gives me good results. I emailed Rustoleum support about spraying Krylon paint over their primer, and they told me to wait something like a month before coating their primer with Krylon, but maybe that's just to discourage me from using Krylon paint instead of theirs.
Here's what I typically pay for paint:
Dupli-color: A bit over $5/can at auto parts stores. I've heard it is cheaper at Wal-mart.
Krylon: $4.77 (I think) at Hobby Lobby, but they almost always have 40% off coupons and sometimes have sales on Krylon.
Rustoleum: A little over $3 per can at Home Depot.
Krylon now has the EZ-Touch Nozzle:
https://www.krylon.com/360/
I really like Dupli-color paints with the EZ-Touch nozzle, but I won't buy their enamel colors because the recoat window is within 1 hour or after 5 days!
https://www.krylon.com/360/
I really like Dupli-color paints with the EZ-Touch nozzle, but I won't buy their enamel colors because the recoat window is within 1 hour or after 5 days!
Stymye
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 21, 2009
- Messages
- 7,599
- Reaction score
- 18
I really like krylon I wish they still made their sandable primer(colored balls on can) , it was really good stuff!
the primer they sell anymore(non-colored balls on can) is a primer/sealer and not intended to be a sandable type product just a basecoating. tho i'm sure you can sand it after an ample curing period, , it's more a paint than a sandable product.(thats why it doesn't say "sandable" on the can)
when it disappeared from the shelves, I looked everywhere for it and finally emailed them ,they replied that it had been discontinued because they felt a sandable primer was more an automotive product and they were not persuing that realm of product line anymore.that was about 4 years ago
the primer they currently sell is a simpler 'spray and paint over' type product
compared to duplicolor or rustoleum or any automotive spray primer it's a flat 2 thumbs down for me.
the primer they sell anymore(non-colored balls on can) is a primer/sealer and not intended to be a sandable type product just a basecoating. tho i'm sure you can sand it after an ample curing period, , it's more a paint than a sandable product.(thats why it doesn't say "sandable" on the can)
when it disappeared from the shelves, I looked everywhere for it and finally emailed them ,they replied that it had been discontinued because they felt a sandable primer was more an automotive product and they were not persuing that realm of product line anymore.that was about 4 years ago
the primer they currently sell is a simpler 'spray and paint over' type product
compared to duplicolor or rustoleum or any automotive spray primer it's a flat 2 thumbs down for me.
Stymye
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 21, 2009
- Messages
- 7,599
- Reaction score
- 18
here's the different types I mentioned, however they may have sandable primer in annother product line that I'm not aware of.
View attachment paint.JPG
View attachment paint.JPG
foose4string
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2009
- Messages
- 2,853
- Reaction score
- 8
I've been sanding Krylon gray before my top coats with no ill effects. It's got gray balls. (that just sounds sooo wrong
) I just looked at the directions on the side of the can, and it does mention sanding as a finishing step, it specifically mentions using 220 grit. I've been using a good quality 400 grit instead. Then it goes on to recommend the rust or black colored primers for wet sanding. It doesn't mention how long to wait before sanding, but does say it dries in 12 minutes. I've been waiting at LEAST 24-48 hrs. before sanding and top coating.
) I just looked at the directions on the side of the can, and it does mention sanding as a finishing step, it specifically mentions using 220 grit. I've been using a good quality 400 grit instead. Then it goes on to recommend the rust or black colored primers for wet sanding. It doesn't mention how long to wait before sanding, but does say it dries in 12 minutes. I've been waiting at LEAST 24-48 hrs. before sanding and top coating.
Stymye
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 21, 2009
- Messages
- 7,599
- Reaction score
- 18
I'm sure it works fine if your not trying to fill alot of blemishes and grain with it. it's just not the type of primer that many people would expect ,where it sands off leaving a layer of talc-like powder everywhere .
being that it's more paint-like I think it would be a good product for wetsanding , as foose mentions ,as a final primer before the top coat.
the discontinued sandable type was something closer to kilz with a very high build and sanded into a mass of powder, when I tried the grey balls version I was really dissapointed in comparison . but if it works for other builders process thats all that really matters .
being that it's more paint-like I think it would be a good product for wetsanding , as foose mentions ,as a final primer before the top coat.
the discontinued sandable type was something closer to kilz with a very high build and sanded into a mass of powder, when I tried the grey balls version I was really dissapointed in comparison . but if it works for other builders process thats all that really matters .
I've had problems with both primers and paints when they get old. If your can of primer was about 2 years old, could the contents have been past their prime? (no pun intended)
My 2 worst cases of this was an old can of Kilz white primer...usually good stuff, but when used after sitting awhile (can't recall how long), it came out spitting and in clumps. My other one was a can of orange Walmart paint that turned brown after about a year.
I have used new Krylon primer with no problems.
My 2 worst cases of this was an old can of Kilz white primer...usually good stuff, but when used after sitting awhile (can't recall how long), it came out spitting and in clumps. My other one was a can of orange Walmart paint that turned brown after about a year.
I have used new Krylon primer with no problems.
MarkM
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2009
- Messages
- 2,215
- Reaction score
- 1
Rustoleum primer will work just fine with Krylon. I use it all the time. I'm referring to Rustoleum's automotive gray sandable primer. Great stuff. Perfectly compatible with Rustoleum, Krylon and even Dupli-color lacquer paints. I've waited as little as 4hrs (I think) to sand and paint. It's dry by about that time, although I prefer waiting overnight before sanding, then topcoating. What the Krylon rep told you was a load of BS (at least with the automotive style). I use the Rustoleum automotive because I think it's a bit cheaper than Dupli-color and it goes on better, IMO. Plus, it works with both enamel and lacquer paints.
swampcat
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2006
- Messages
- 110
- Reaction score
- 0
I'd like to reiterate what BWP said.
I had a similar experience with an old can of Krylon. The HW store had a few cans of a particular discontinued color that I wanted at a ridiculously reduced price so I bought three cans.
One can was OK, but I didn't get enough coverage to finish the project. Another can was unusable, spitting clumps, running badly, not spraying. With the third can, the color was way off. I ended up buying new cans of a reasonably close color and starting over. :cry:
Otherwise, I use Krylon almost exclusively with no problems.
I had a similar experience with an old can of Krylon. The HW store had a few cans of a particular discontinued color that I wanted at a ridiculously reduced price so I bought three cans.
One can was OK, but I didn't get enough coverage to finish the project. Another can was unusable, spitting clumps, running badly, not spraying. With the third can, the color was way off. I ended up buying new cans of a reasonably close color and starting over. :cry:
Otherwise, I use Krylon almost exclusively with no problems.
dave carver
....what hump?
Fast drying and cheap it's hard to beat the walmart/kmart store brand paints. Plus at under a buck a can your less tempted to use old product, send it to the recycler.
I've used other, more expensive brands including Kilz, Rustoleum, Krylon, and many others. Except for the Kilz their pretty much the same. Check the contents for solids loading, that's the clue, higher the solids, the better.
On the big stuff I get out the quart can sprayer and I use Columbia Paints Cor-o-guard primer and what they used to call Speed set paints. 15 minute drying time on the primer because it's ment for high humidity, even water-soaked enviroments. There have been times that I primed and painted D8 Catapillars in 45 minutes to an hour, never a problem even in less than optimal temps.
I've been an industrial sandblaster and painter for years
I've used other, more expensive brands including Kilz, Rustoleum, Krylon, and many others. Except for the Kilz their pretty much the same. Check the contents for solids loading, that's the clue, higher the solids, the better.
On the big stuff I get out the quart can sprayer and I use Columbia Paints Cor-o-guard primer and what they used to call Speed set paints. 15 minute drying time on the primer because it's ment for high humidity, even water-soaked enviroments. There have been times that I primed and painted D8 Catapillars in 45 minutes to an hour, never a problem even in less than optimal temps.
I've been an industrial sandblaster and painter for years
Spaceman Spiff
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2008
- Messages
- 278
- Reaction score
- 0
Kilz is great if you have plenty of time to let it cure, and then it sands well. And, it is fine if you are not using plastic -- it really is best for porous materials, IMHO. I've standardized on Filler-Primer from Duplicolor. Sure, it costs more, but I'm not doing HPR anymore, so a can lasts for several projects. Dries fast, fills seams amd blemishes, sands off like talcum. I decided I'd rather spend a little more for a product I trust, than keep changing, but that is just me. I understand the lure of buck-a-can paint, but I find that most of the time, I really am not that thrilled with the bargain I think I got.
For topcoats or primer, I just flat out refuse to use Rustoleum PERIOD -- unless I'm painting metal lawn furniture, or applying a new coat of green to that metal hose rack out back. I think it is terrible on paper or wood. And I've avoided Krylons in the past due to problems with plastic, but the new Fusion is great, as long as gloss white is your color. Doesn't appear to be offered in many choices. But for white base coats, and where plastic is involved, it is excellent. (For a small plastic Estes cone, I do not primer them, I just paint them, and if white is required, I like the Fusion).
One thing I've not tried is regular Krylon over Fusion -- but will try today as an experiment. My guess is that it will be fine, but a test is easy enough to confirm.
For topcoats or primer, I just flat out refuse to use Rustoleum PERIOD -- unless I'm painting metal lawn furniture, or applying a new coat of green to that metal hose rack out back. I think it is terrible on paper or wood. And I've avoided Krylons in the past due to problems with plastic, but the new Fusion is great, as long as gloss white is your color. Doesn't appear to be offered in many choices. But for white base coats, and where plastic is involved, it is excellent. (For a small plastic Estes cone, I do not primer them, I just paint them, and if white is required, I like the Fusion).
One thing I've not tried is regular Krylon over Fusion -- but will try today as an experiment. My guess is that it will be fine, but a test is easy enough to confirm.
