How to avoid over spray when painting? Help Please!

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AfterBurners

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For the longest time I could never figure out why when I paint a rocket (namely the fin can area) why either the airframe would turn out really wet and glossy and the fin next to it would be dry with over spray. I think maybe when I painting the airframe and flowing the paint between two fins the over spray comes up on the fin(s). After the stroke I'll paint the fin(s) again, but by doing so I get over spray on the airframe where I just painted it. Does that make sense to you guys? Lately I've been masking off the fins and painting each one separately and it works, but it's a lot of work and I'm tired of doing it. I use rattle cans and I use Duplicolor.

I do about 2 light coats, one medium and then the last one I put down a little more and flow the paint and "WET" it so it looks glossy and smooth. I know and understand the process, it's avoiding the over spray.

Any suggestion or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again in advance:)
 
Sounds like you are dealing with dry spray. Like an orange peel effect. Duplicolor paints and clear are the worst with that. It may need colorsanded and rubbed out for a smooth finish.
 
I do 4 thin coats sanded between. Then two gloss sanded between. Then auto polish. Probably when you are spraying to get a gloss finish you're applying too much paint. Thin coats is the ticket.
 
FWIW

When I use lacquers, I see the same trade-off with my final coat: Typically either the fins or the adjacent tube area gets a dryer spray over the just-setting fully-wetted coat.

This used to bug me but since I usually use a clear lacquer topcoat over lacquer color coats, I've noticed it will gloss over the problem and I won't see it in the final product. The clear smooths over the slightly rough overspray areas.

Alternatively, I've used polishing compound to smooth it over, or 800 (or thereabouts) wet sanding the final color coat. Either way it comes out smooth.
 
How long do you wait between coats? How far away from the project do you hold the can? The hardest thing to do is try to explain a technique to someone on how to get a good finish. Problems such as hazing, wrinkling, etc. are a little easier to explain a possible cause or solution.

One brand of paint can behave differently from another. Everybody has a different technique. Some sand between coats, some don't. Practice I quess would be the best answer. What I do is hold the can alot closer than the instructions say, when I spray I'm 6 inches away max., got to be quick!! I spray 3-4 finish coats depending on how the paint covers. All my coats are 5 minutes apart, no sanding in between. You have to establish a technique that works best for you. There are lots of ways to do it only you can determine which is best for you.
 
How long do you wait between coats? How far away from the project do you hold the can? The hardest thing to do is try to explain a technique to someone on how to get a good finish. Problems such as hazing, wrinkling, etc. are a little easier to explain a possible cause or solution.

One brand of paint can behave differently from another. Everybody has a different technique. Some sand between coats, some don't. Practice I quess would be the best answer. What I do is hold the can alot closer than the instructions say, when I spray I'm 6 inches away max., got to be quick!! I spray 3-4 finish coats depending on how the paint covers. All my coats are 5 minutes apart, no sanding in between. You have to establish a technique that works best for you. There are lots of ways to do it only you can determine which is best for you.

I do it very close to the way you do it. I start off with light mist coats say the first couple coats and with a slower motion. As I get closer to my work to get a thicker coat I spray closer and move faster blending the paint.
 
How long do you wait between coats? How far away from the project do you hold the can? The hardest thing to do is try to explain a technique to someone on how to get a good finish. Problems such as hazing, wrinkling, etc. are a little easier to explain a possible cause or solution.

One brand of paint can behave differently from another. Everybody has a different technique. Some sand between coats, some don't. Practice I quess would be the best answer. What I do is hold the can alot closer than the instructions say, when I spray I'm 6 inches away max., got to be quick!! I spray 3-4 finish coats depending on how the paint covers. All my coats are 5 minutes apart, no sanding in between. You have to establish a technique that works best for you. There are lots of ways to do it only you can determine which is best for you.

I wait a day between coats. And spray from a ft. or so away. Just keep the can moving. I really think holding the can close is causing alot of your problems. And I do agree that you need a technique that works for you, but you need to keep the can back. If I get too close, I too have noticed running along with not waiting long enough between coats.
 
Just cut to the chase and spray medium wet coats. Keep a wet edge and do the fin area first then work your way up the tube. Looks like rcktnut is doing it right.
 
Rattlecan painting is an art rather than a science but consistency pays off. Keep practicing.

That's the best I can offer.
 
Well one thing I learned while begining airbrushing plastic model aircraft (1/48 scale mostly ,but all would apply) was to keep close attention to surfaces that meet in a perpendicular fashion,such as the wing to fuselage joint or any other surface that meets at a 90 degree angle.

Aircraft such as F-15s ,F-14s and Migs & Sukhois where there are two verticle tail surfaces were the worst.My paint would dry and look like sandy grit and chalky and did not know why ?

What happens is the paint hits one surface ,gets bounced off ,dries partially in mid air and re-settles back onto the surface partially dried.It happens pretty fast, but creates a rough sandy surface ,while another surface is nice and glossy.

I cranked down the PSI a tad to the airbrush got in closer to the perpendicular surfaces and used slower ,sweeping methodical motions keeping the spray pattern parallel to the surfaces.

The same may be said about rockets when painting the body to fin areas ,although you can really control the air pressure in the can ,the rest can be corrected.

HTH

Paul T
 
The overspray is causing the dry spots on parts just painted. Time is not your friend. If I may, think of it this way... you have a 3 fin rocket, fins A,B,and C. Start by painting one side of fin A in the direction of the tube, spray back and forth down across the tube and up one side of fin B. Go back to the other side of Fin A paint over to one side of fin C. Go back to Fin B, paint the other side over to Fin C. Alternate back and forth. Rattle cans have a lot of dryiers and a fast thinner. On tubes over 2.5 in. I start down the tube and alternate passes so that I meet on the oppositeside of the tube. Light coats, practice. I hope this helps.
 
The overspray is causing the dry spots on parts just painted. Time is not your friend. If I may, think of it this way... you have a 3 fin rocket, fins A,B,and C. Start by painting one side of fin A in the direction of the tube, spray back and forth down across the tube and up one side of fin B. Go back to the other side of Fin A paint over to one side of fin C. Go back to Fin B, paint the other side over to Fin C. Alternate back and forth. Rattle cans have a lot of dryiers and a fast thinner. On tubes over 2.5 in. I start down the tube and alternate passes so that I meet on the oppositeside of the tube. Light coats, practice. I hope this helps.
I totally agree!
 
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