high fill primer?

[emckee]

I'm curious to hear what experiences others have had with high fill primers.

I picked up a rattle can of some by rustoleum and have been using it to finish a kit recently. I can't really tell any difference between this stuff and their regular primer, but ran into trouble when I removed the masking tape over a plastic nose cone... and the primer underneath peeled off too!:surprised:

Honestly, I think it was my fault... I used balsa filler to smooth out the nose cone, and I don't think adhesion between the plastic and filler was very good, although I did sand the plastic thoroughly with 220 grit sandpaper beforehand. Anyway, I got to wondering if the high-fill primer might be more susceptible to peeling in this fashion.

Anyone try stuff like this?

Erik

 

[dixontj93060]

Rustoleum has a number of primers in various packages and branding, some good, some bad. What you are looking for is Filler-Primer. Most hardware and big box stores don't carry it as it is part of their automotive series. Look at Walmart in their automobile section (not the paint/hardware section).

 

[cwbullet]

I recommend Duplicolor. It is fantastic.

 

[neond7]

I recommend Duplicolor. It is fantastic.

Seconded! I had a horrible experience recently with Rustoleum filler primer not playing nice with the top coat. Never had that happen with the Duplicolor.

 

[DRAGON64]

I use KILZ as a high fill primer... fills spirals, and sands easily.

 

[Marc_G]

I use KILZ as a high fill primer... fills spirals, and sands easily.

Which version of KILZ?

 

[DRAGON64]

Which version of KILZ?

Original in the solid white can...

 

[sandman]

The only problem I've run into with Kilz is that it take a bit longer to fully dry (cure) before a top coat.

I really like the Bondo brand but my local store that sold it closed up.

I've gone to Duplicolor. No complaints so far.

 

[DRAGON64]

It does, especially if you lay it on thick like I usually do... I generally give the rocket 24 - 48 hours to cure, or in the case of my BrightHawk, one week. Sanding KILZ produces a huge amount of dust just as an FYI-

 

[samb]

I use the same Rusto filler/primer as Big Bucks, for some time now actually. That and the Rusto 2X spray cans have worked for me. As with most spray bombs: shake well, multiple light coats, and watch the humidity when using.
Hmm:

.. I used balsa filler to smooth out the nose cone, ...

I never tried balsa filler on a plastic nose cone, I suspect that was your weak link in this sequence. Was the peeling confined to the area that was filled ? Also, sometimes you need to wash the cone with soap and water in addition to a good scuffing. Which kit are you building ?

p.s. How much drying time did you allow before putting the masking tape on ?

 

[4kids49]

I am with the DupliColor Hi Build crowd. Great stuff. My only wish is that it would come in white. To get bright colors, especially fluorescent colors to pop, requires either a base coat of white, or a light coat of another white primer. I test all of my primer paint combinations out on a piece of wood (1 x3) to make sure that I don't get paint reaction issues. Have read very mixed reviews on Kilz. Have read mostly good stuff on Rustoleum primer used with Rustoleum Paint.

 

[KenRico]

I use the Rusto High Build primer on my builds. Was a pleasant surprise to see it over at wallyworld in their automotive dept with the bondo fiberglass.

Let it sit for a day and hit it with the purple 3m 150 grit pro sandpaper and you will see the dust fly.

Kenny

 

[Marc_G]

+1 for Rusto Auto High Build Filler Primer. It has worked reproducibly for me under all lacquer, enamel, and acrylic paints. Don't spray it OVER any enamels.

 

[emckee]

View attachment 132438
I use the same Rusto filler/primer as Big Bucks, for some time now actually. That and the Rusto 2X spray cans have worked for me. As with most spray bombs: shake well, multiple light coats, and watch the humidity when using.
Hmm:
I never tried balsa filler on a plastic nose cone, I suspect that was your weak link in this sequence. Was the peeling confined to the area that was filled ? Also, sometimes you need to wash the cone with soap and water in addition to a good scuffing. Which kit are you building ?

p.s. How much drying time did you allow before putting the masking tape on ?

Yeah, I think that's the same can that I used. I'm building up a Jart kit.

Sounds like the general consensus is that high build primers are commonly used and not necessarily a bad thing, though.

The peeling wasn't limited to the area where the balsa filler was, but it seemed to center on that area, so I suspect that was indeed the weak link. I've never had to wash a plastic nose cone before, but I've certainly read about needing to do that in some cases. Guess this may be that first case for me.

I had the primer dry for at least a week before applying the blue masking tape, so I don't think drying was an issue. However, I left the tape on for 3-4 days, so that may have been a mistake too. From what I've heard, the longer you leave the masking tape on, the stronger the stick...

Erik

 

[samb]

Ya never know when you'll get a cone with some leftover mold release stuff so soap and water or an alcohol bath is sop. And getting that tape up before the paint cures is good practice as well, also avoids any little chips along the line because of dried paint.

So you need a tube of Testors or Squadron putty for plastic models I think.

 

[sodmeister]

View attachment 132438
I use the same Rusto filler/primer as Big Bucks, for some time now actually. That and the Rusto 2X spray cans have worked for me. As with most spray bombs: shake well, multiple light coats, and watch the humidity when using.
Hmm:
I never tried balsa filler on a plastic nose cone, I suspect that was your weak link in this sequence. Was the peeling confined to the area that was filled ? Also, sometimes you need to wash the cone with soap and water in addition to a good scuffing. Which kit are you building ?




YESSIR !

That`s good stuff and so is the Painter touch 2x primer ,but my favorite goto primer is Duplicolor hands down ,likes lacquer paints too !

Plastic nosecones need to be filled with a solvent based filler.Also do NOT sand plastic nosecones of any sort until they are washed completely with dishsoap ,rinse and wash again and a good wipedown with alcohol ,then sand.You really don`t want to scrub the release agant into the surface and pores of the plastic ,nothing will stick properly or for long.

There are plastic primers out there and plastic compatible paints (Rustoleum painters Touch for one and Krylon as well as Duplicolor making a plastic adhesion promoter)

I like to let my primers cure a good 48 hours before sanding and top coating, although most cans will say anywhere from 30 mins. to 2 hours ,I have found longer wait times to be prudent and usually without fail.

Paul t

 

[RoyAtl]

Plastikote Spot Filler and Primer is the only one I use.

Best place to get it is at CarQuest.

 

[rockdoc]

I use Duplicolor High filler primer for my builds.

 

[luke strawwalker]

Yeah, I think that's the same can that I used. I'm building up a Jart kit.

Sounds like the general consensus is that high build primers are commonly used and not necessarily a bad thing, though.

I've used the regular Rusto primer in the extra tall cans from WM for several projects (since their 99 cent a can primers went away in our area) and it's worked very well-- no complaints or issues whatsoever...

The peeling wasn't limited to the area where the balsa filler was, but it seemed to center on that area, so I suspect that was indeed the weak link. I've never had to wash a plastic nose cone before, but I've certainly read about needing to do that in some cases. Guess this may be that first case for me.

Interesting technique... as you mentioned, getting stuff to stick to plastic cones reliably can be a problem... anything you can do (including washing and sanding) to promote adhesion is a good thing. I usually just use a few coats of primer to smooth the cone down sufficiently, or Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty (BGSP) to smooth out any terrible seam lines on the cones before priming and sanding... I've not used the wood filler before... be interested to hear how it holds up over time. They have primers now specifically made for spraying on plastic parts, which are supposed to have better adhesion to the plastic surface... (but I've not used them yet).

I had the primer dry for at least a week before applying the blue masking tape, so I don't think drying was an issue. However, I left the tape on for 3-4 days, so that may have been a mistake too. From what I've heard, the longer you leave the masking tape on, the stronger the stick...

Erik

Quite true... you want to remove the tape as soon as possible. Also, the blue tape can get awfully strong and lift layers of paint under it, especially if left on too long. I once painted vertical alternating black and white stripes on a V-2 nosecone (similar to those on a Polaris missile) and had the paint lift, just using scotch tape for the masking... had to repaint the white stripes where the tape pulled the paint off the primer...

You can reduce the tackiness of the tape by sticking it to your forehead and pulling it off, then applying it to the rocket-- the oil in your skin will reduce the tackiness... or you can get low-tack tape from an autobody paint shop, or if you can find it at the local big box store or generic auto supply... Tamiya tape is also an EXCELLENT masking tape for delicate areas (like plastic cones) and has a light tack but does an amazing job, but it is rather expensive...

Later and good luck! OL JR

 

[GregGleason]

Plastikote Spot Filler and Primer is the only one I use.

Best place to get it is at CarQuest.

What Roy said.

Regarding, Dupli-Color primers, I checked out the formulations by looking at their respective MSDSs, looking at the differences via text comparison software and found that the Dupli-Color primers (BPR0031 and FP101) are very similar. As it turns out, the BPR0031 is a little "hotter" (higher amount of volatile solvents, which is usually a good thing as that it speeds up drying time) with the Acetone content at 31% v the 27% in the FP101. The product in FP101 has slightly greater density, though. The ingredient that you look for with respect to "solids" is usually talc. Talc is a very soft mineral, which aids in the ability for sanding, and also has a very fine particle size, usually between 5 and 20 microns. Johnson's Baby Powder is mostly talc (note, some Johnson's baby powder products are cornstarch), so you could make your own epoxy-based primer with laminating epoxy as the medium by adding talc to it. YMMV.

Greg

 

[Boosterdude]

I recommend Duplicolor. It is fantastic.

I agree 100%, I've been using it for 7 years without a single issue. Consistent results, and I've never had a single compatibility issue.