Estes Olympus/Jollylogic chute release test mule....

[86mustang408w]

Well, gonna start the Estes Olympus. Its gonna be my test mule for a jolly logic chute release. So its gonna get some abuse, beefed up the motor mount by making my own rings, gonna add good shock cord, and keep the payload section usable but firmly attached. Not gonna go with the color original color scheme and or probably not use the stickers, lol. And those fins desperately need to be strengthened, so this is gonna be my project for the next few days, while I'm waiting on parts for another build. But this weekend I'm supposed to be getting my other collection back, so who knows what that is gonna look like. Anways, this is a great rocket for a base build, with a few small additions this is a nice rocket. And I also took a router with 2 rounded tip bits and made myself a nice little fin rounding tool with sandpaper inserted in it, works good so far on thicker balsa, and plywood. But not these paper thin fins, so thats an upgrade spot too!

 

[86mustang408w]

Motor Mount glued, let it dry then flip it.

 

[86mustang408w]

One piece fins almost done, just needs CA and some light sanding. Bed time while the motor tube dries.

 

[Huxter]

Very cool experiment! What's your "Other collection" - rockets!?

 

[86mustang408w]

Very cool experiment! What's your "Other collection" - rockets!?

A mix right now. And one im building for my L1, thats over in HPR. Hopefully getting my other collection 2morrow. But I have mostly Estes right now. With the L1 being custom parts picked out and I'm putting it together myself. Gonna be fun. But the Olympus, I got the fins done and in place, gonna do Titebond later for the fillets. Ill post more later, taking care of a few other things rn!

Very cool experiment! What's your "Other collection" - rockets!?

 

[86mustang408w]

I definitely should have sanded down the centering rings a little more. By the time I got the glue on the aft ring while pushing it in after brushing glue in the tube, trying to get it in was almost impossible. I really used a small hammer at one point. Its almost all the way in, and with 3 rings(2 being plywood) it will be ok. But the fin experiment kinda made that install something different. I've done it before with it already done and instructions but making your old thru the wall fins are something else. More so practice foe HPR builds I'm gonna focus on. But here's a pic, not bad but it should be in more. I almost crushed the dam tube trying to push it in.

 

[Tractionengines]

Don't use wood glue for things you need to push a ways into tubes, or position/reposition accurately. (ie. Couplers, long Motor Mounts, motor block rings.) Wood glue "seizes" and then can't be moved. Some 15 minute epoxy works wonders for giving time to get the position "just right". Just wear gloves, and cleanup with denatured alcohol.

If you do keep with wood glue: Install quickly in one continuous motion, (a slight twisting motion can help); knowing once you pause, it's going to be "stuck" there.

I think EVERYONE here has experienced the panic of not having something positioned correctly when wood glue "grabbs". Yes, sometimes you need to scrap a kinked body tube or "adapt" for a slightly out of position part.

 

[86mustang408w]

Well...

 

[Long_Gone]

Well...

Milton PA? That is somewhat near me in Drums. Interesting

 

[86mustang408w]

Don't use wood glue for things you need to push a ways into tubes, or position/reposition accurately. (ie. Couplers, long Motor Mounts, motor block rings.) Wood glue "seizes" and then can't be moved. Some 15 minute epoxy works wonders for giving time to get the position "just right". Just wear gloves, and cleanup with denatured alcohol.

If you do keep with wood glue: Install quickly in one continuous motion, (a slight twisting motion can help); knowing once you pause, it's going to be "stuck" there.

I think EVERYONE here has experienced the panic of not having something positioned correctly when wood glue "grabbs". Yes, sometimes you need to scrap a kinked body tube or "adapt" for a slightly out of position part.

I have epoxy too. Just didn't sand the motor centering rings I personally made down myself. Its an experiment fun rocket. I appreciate the tip. I have a few other things o sort out now.

 

[86mustang408w]

Milton PA? That is somewhat near me in Drums. Interesting

Your up by Hazelton? I really lice in Bloomsburg, staying im Milton temporarily.. we could hang sometime, get a few guys and come launch down here at the fairgrounds parking lot. Done it for years, up to E, maybe G of its heavier..

 

[Long_Gone]

No body launches with me in all alone but it's all good. Sounds like a plan. I did not think of the fairgrounds. Ok I don't want to bogart this thread. I'm thinking about it ...

 

[86mustang408w]

No body launches with me in all alone but it's all good. Sounds like a plan. I did not think of the fairgrounds. Ok I don't want to bogart this thread. I'm thinking about it ...

Streaters farm is close to that too, now its public land with soccer fields etc..Another good spot. I took some pics yesterday of it all from the ground, I'm on the laptop now when I get to my phone ill post them. But the fair parking lot is about 1000 feet by 1000 feet....with no trees..

 

[86mustang408w]

Sanded and ready for paint!!!

 

[BABAR]

Don't use wood glue for things you need to push a ways into tubes, or position/reposition accurately. (ie. Couplers, long Motor Mounts, motor block rings.) Wood glue "seizes" and then can't be moved. Some 15 minute epoxy works wonders for giving time to get the position "just right". Just wear gloves, and cleanup with denatured alcohol.

If you do keep with wood glue: Install quickly in one continuous motion, (a slight twisting motion can help); knowing once you pause, it's going to be "stuck" there.

I think EVERYONE here has experienced the panic of not having something positioned correctly when wood glue "grabbs". Yes, sometimes you need to scrap a kinked body tube or "adapt" for a slightly out of position part.

For low power applications, good old white school glue works well. It is not “lock proof” , but it gives more working time than wood glue. You still need to do a couple of good dry fits, and ideally when you have the glue applied in the tube, you should try to insert the mount in one smooth motion to the predetermined depth.

There is a temptation to slide the forward ring in, try to quickly squirt a bit more glue in the tube and then add second ring. Don’t do this, just slide it all in after one glue application. You can add a little glue fillet to the rear ring (from the tail end) after the mount dries, although you probable don’t need it. Sliding the forward ring in usually “squeegees “/creates its own “dam” or fillet forward of the forward ring, generally plenty strong, especially if you filleted the forward ring to the motor mount tube well beforehand.

Epoxy works great and certainly gives you more work time. It is at least as strong as and possible stronger than white glue (however for this application I think white glue is more than adequate—- from a strength standpoint at least for low power epoxy is overkill).

Disadvantages of epoxy are

More weight

Need gloves and well ventilated area

Some but not all are kind of stinky.
Higher cost and more waste (since you have to mix it, at least for me I always have to mix at least a little more than I use.)

YMMV

 

[86mustang408w]

For low power applications, good old white school glue works well. It is not “lock proof” , but it gives more working time than wood glue. You still need to do a couple of good dry fits, and ideally when you have the glue applied in the tube, you should try to insert the mount in one smooth motion to the predetermined depth.

There is a temptation to slide the forward ring in, try to quickly squirt a bit more glue in the tube and then add second ring. Don’t do this, just slide it all in after one glue application. You can add a little glue fillet to the rear ring (from the tail end) after the mount dries, although you probable don’t need it. Sliding the forward ring in usually “squeegees “/creates its own “dam” or fillet forward of the forward ring, generally plenty strong, especially if you filleted the forward ring to the motor mount tube well beforehand.

Epoxy works great and certainly gives you more work time. It is at least as strong as and possible stronger than white glue (however for this application I think white glue is more than adequate—- from a strength standpoint at least for low power epoxy is overkill).

Disadvantages of epoxy are

More weight

Need gloves and well ventilated area

Some but not all are kind of stinky.
Higher cost and more waste (since you have to mix it, at least for me I always have to mix at least a little more than I use.)

YMMV

I've been using epoxy on all my LPR'S builds too. Have Bob Smith 30 min for fin tabs to motor tube, CR's, and anything else other than couplers which I have Hobby Linc 5 min epoxy for that. Locktiye for the hardware, and JB weld for the motor retainers on my HPR or longer burning LPR.

 

[BEC]

Since it's come up (motor tubes getting stuck before they got to where we want them) I'll again put in a plug for Alleene's Original Tacky Glue, which is a water-based craft glue that is just enough more forgiving that it's great for this particular situation. In fact, it's fine for the whole of an LPR build except where plastic-to-something else joints are needed.

My two cents' worth. YMMV, and all the other usual disclaimers....

On the original subject: Heck, I'd have just built the model stock (I've built two of them) except for possibly papering the fins if they were of really soft wood like my first Olympus was. I'm currently planning to fly the second one in Precision Fragile Payload at NARAM-64....probably on a Q-Jet E26. A stock build will handle that, no problem.

 

[Long_Gone]

I have epoxy too. Just didn't sand the motor centering rings I personally made down myself. Its an experiment fun rocket. I appreciate the tip. I have a few other things o sort out now.

No sickness in this photo. And I thought I had an obsession..........

 

[86mustang408w]

No sickness in this photo. And I thought I had an obsession..........

Well I started it in 2013 to keep me occupied after an injury and surgery deliverig foe my 10 year brief career at UPS. Now again, but this time for life! I'm really enjoying this again, picked a nice book too to read away from technology. Really happy right now. Knock on wood, lol. Amazon messed up and charged me shipping for the Jollylogic chute release I ordered last night, so they cut more off the bill and I got it foen$137.12 shipped. And a cool little sanding kit at harbor freight too for $7.97 plus Pa tax. Have alot of motors now from A to G, about 100 in all, not bad for a Tuesday morning outing. Still loving OpenRocket and wanna mess around with that more, but just got the Olympus painted, the sliver was rough it showed everything. So I went over it with black and think I'm gonna leave it that way. Look around the LPR, MPR, and HPR forums ill be doing alot work. Just fixed my 34" tall Big Bertha by adding a few things. New shock cord, upper BT and coupler, eye screw, swivel, fillets, fins labeled and CAnon the edges, and finally sanded and sprayed it with snadbke primer just waiting for it to dry a bit. Doesnt take long only 10 mins or so..Thats under LPR too! I have so much i can't do its unreal!!

 

[Long_Gone]

Cool, I also have an RC airplane sickness and Real Airplane fever. Yes I fly Real planes just got my license last year.

 

[BABAR]

Since it's come up (motor tubes getting stuck before they got to where we want them) I'll again put in a plug for Alleene's Original Tacky Glue, which is a water-based craft glue that is just enough more forgiving that it's great for this particular situation. In fact, it's fine for the whole of an LPR build except where plastic-to-something else joints are needed.

My two cents' worth. YMMV, and all the other usual disclaimers....

On the original subject: Heck, I'd have just built the model stock (I've built two of them) except for possibly papering the fins if they were of really soft wood like my first Olympus was. I'm currently planning to fly the second one in Precision Fragile Payload at NARAM-64....probably on a Q-Jet E26. A stock build will handle that, no problem.

Since it's come up (motor tubes getting stuck before they got to where we want them) I'll again put in a plug for Alleene's Original Tacky Glue, which is a water-based craft glue that is just enough more forgiving that it's great for this particular situation. In fact, it's fine for the whole of an LPR build except where plastic-to-something else joints are needed.

My two cents' worth. YMMV, and all the other usual disclaimers....

On the original subject: Heck, I'd have just built the model stock (I've built two of them) except for possibly papering the fins if they were of really soft wood like my first Olympus was. I'm currently planning to fly the second one in Precision Fragile Payload at NARAM-64....probably on a Q-Jet E26. A stock build will handle that, no problem.

@neil_w has suggested that white glue may cause contraction/“puckering” like yellow glue. Have you seen this with white glue in general and/or Allene glue in particular?

 

[neil_w]

@neil_w has suggested that white glue may cause contraction/“puckering” like yellow glue.

To state more accurately, I did absolutely get a pucker on a motor mount installed with white glue. It want severe but it was there.

It is possible I just used too much glue, but I usually want to make sure my mmt is really solidly glued in.

 

[86mustang408w]

Cool, I also have an RC airplane sickness and Real Airplane fever. Yes I fly Real planes just got my license last year.

Cool, my high school friend Dave Davis is in the Navy, he flies fighter jets. He just bought his first single prop but I cant remember what...Very Cool, I wanted to fly jets, but that ended with glasses at age 13...So, UPS trucks and CBR 1000RR's!!

 

[86mustang408w]

Working on a few other projects but took time to spray the Estes Olympus I'm using for my Jollylogic chute release test mule. Beefed it up and added kevlar shock cord around the motor tube, etc. But wanted to do the whole bottom section in silver but that aluminum metallic paint shows EVERYTHING. Yes I know the paint will flake off the motor retainer I don't care about that. But ended up hitting the fins with black and just stopped, then changed my entire paint idea but jusy went with it. Its got fillets and was assembled pretty much with Titebond II, and Titebond thick and quick. Also made my own centering rings out if plywood for longevity. Not gonna sand anymore or do some more coats, might hit the insides of the nosecone in their respective colors, but this was the one with one piece thru the tube fins with motor mount attaching tabs. Kind of happy with it like this, what do you think! A few backstory pics but its pretty much done, the chute release gets here 2morrow. Should be a fun weekend!!

 

[BEC]

@neil_w has suggested that white glue may cause contraction/“puckering” like yellow glue. Have you seen this with white glue in general and/or Allene glue in particular?

I expect that if heavily used, Alleene's will shrink enough to notice. I just looked at three recently-built models where I used it, including the Olympus I referred to above, and don't see any real evidence of shrinkage pulling the body tube in at the centering rings.

 

[86mustang408w]

Since it's come up (motor tubes getting stuck before they got to where we want them) I'll again put in a plug for Alleene's Original Tacky Glue, which is a water-based craft glue that is just enough more forgiving that it's great for this particular situation. In fact, it's fine for the whole of an LPR build except where plastic-to-something else joints are needed.

My two cents' worth. YMMV, and all the other usual disclaimers....

On the original subject: Heck, I'd have just built the model stock (I've built two of them) except for possibly papering the fins if they were of really soft wood like my first Olympus was. I'm currently planning to fly the second one in Precision Fragile Payload at NARAM-64....probably on a Q-Jet E26. A stock build will handle that, no problem.

The motor mount problem was just that I brushed in the glue inside the tube, and the plywood ring(s) was a tight fit in the first place, I know better and should have sanded it just a little more, but then I waited too long to assemble it. It's my fault, but appreciate all the advice and tips! I'll keep them in mind for sure, thank you all!!

 

[86mustang408w]

Its here!!

 

[86mustang408w]

Its been rain and wind, got one launch in on another rocket then rain hit again...Soon ill test this out!!

 

[86mustang408w]

Ended up using the Big Daddy for the chute release as it had a chute protector. But here is the Olympus on a C6-3 after I get a YouTube link....ughhh..