Cutting phenolic tubing

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mdoering

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How do you all cut the phenolic coated cardboard tubing?

I'm getting the avionics bay set up for my Madcow 4" agm-33 and I'd like to cut about a 1" section of the airframe that will be permanently bonded to the avionics bay so that things like static ports and switch holes stay lined up. How do you get a good clean straight cut on the tubing?
 
I used a power miter saw. It chipped a bit so next time I'll tape before cutting. On a 10in saw you'll have to roll the tube under the blade to cut all the way through.
 
How do you all cut the phenolic coated cardboard tubing?

I'm getting the avionics bay set up for my Madcow 4" agm-33 and I'd like to cut about a 1" section of the airframe that will be permanently bonded to the avionics bay so that things like static ports and switch holes stay lined up. How do you get a good clean straight cut on the tubing?

I place a mark at the length I want, then wrap with masking tape to get the straight edge around the tube. If your tape doesn't match up when it meets, then adjust until it does. Then...just a really sharp razor blade and patience :grin:
 
The wall thickness is .045" so I was thinking that power tools may be a bit over the top... I think a hobby knife would suffice, but I'm not sure how to get a good clean square through cut...
 
Lacking the fancy saw, take a sheet of paper and wrap around mating the ends to give you a nice perpendicular line. Then go at it with a fine tooth hacksaw and take your time.
 
I use a hand miter saw (did a few this morning for research motor liners).
 
A Dremel type tool with a reinforced cut-off wheel.
A hobby knife will not work.
You will want to wear a dust mask as; the phenolic resin contains formaldehyde....


JD
 
I bit the bullet and went the masking tape and hobby knife route (with a brand new blade)

It actually came out pretty good... I used a 6" adjustable square and marked the desired length in several spots around the circumference of the airframe, then applied tape making sure I JUST touched the under side of each pencil mark and that the two ends of the tape were perfectly aligned where they overlapped. I put the coupler in the body tube to a spot where any knife marks would be hidden by the band I'm putting making, then scored the surface on the first round, and removed the coupler and completed the through cut making sure that the thickest part of the blade kept in contact with the tape.

I sort of had that idea in mind already but was reluctant to start cutting into 4" airframe material without a second opinion...
 
I too use power tools (table saw and a sled) but I`ve also used a Zona saw (very fine tooth hobby saw) and it cuts phenolic tubing very well !

Paul T
 
Here's something to keep in mind for cutting any type of tubing, with any method (power saw, knife, hacksaw, etc.).

With any cutting tool/method, you can still get some rough edges at least, or some uneven lines at worst. If you accept that from the outset, and concentrate on how you are going to fix it after the cut, it will be easier and less stressful to make the actual cut. So how do you deal with it? Easy - make a simple flat sanding block by just adhering some sandpaper to a flat piece of plywood. Something a little larger than the diameter of your tubing. Then, use it to true up the edges after the cut. If you cut close, but not exactly perfect, it's a simple and quick matter to get it just right using this method.

I find this is actually faster, easier, and less stressful than trying to get an absolutely true and perfect cut with whatever saw I use. Plus it's cheap and requires no fancy tools.

But if you DO want to use fancy tools, the best way is to use a good 12" bench mounted disc sander. As long as your table and mitre guide are true, squaring up your freshly cut tubing is quick and comes out perfect every time. Works great with paper, phenolic, fibreglass, BlueTube, whatever.

For the record, I hand cut with a Japanese pull saw, and true with a 12" bench sander - with all materials. Most of the time the saw cut is about 98% perfect as is, and the sander finishes the job. But sometimes the power sander is not available, and in those cases the hand sanding method I described above works just fine.

s6
 
Indeed very true ,a good fine tooth Japanese pull saw (pretty much a larger version of the Zona saw) is really all you need to make a nice acurate cut ,and finish sanding to true up the ends works wonderfully.

And as mentioned ,the quality of the cut ,as it pertains to power tools ,is how the tool is set up to be accurate and 90° to the table.

But sometimes the more simple ways achieve just as good results with planning and patience.

Do people still know how to use a plane and winding sticks ?

Paul (I love power tools) T
 
I can't wait until we close on our house so we can move in and I can get my workshop back! Every time I get something from storage and see my veritas 36" twin screw vise sitting on the floor, the handsaws hanging on the wall, the box marked "Garage - planes - HEAVY" it makes me want to break out the tools and build a new workbench... Roubo, Nicholson, Holtzapffel, door on sawhorses, ANYTHING to get me off of this 3' round marble patio table....
 
I love furniture making and working with Black Cherry and Maples.I`m fortunate to have a Lee Valley /Veritas store just 20 minutes away.If you can`t find me at one of the 6 hobby shops we have then I`ll likely be at Lee Valley :wink:

We also have another woodworking store that comes in very handy when scratch building rockets as well as selling Baltic Birch in all thicknesses ,for fins ,bulkheads ,CRs and jigs & fixtures.

I need more money LOL
Cheers

Paul t
 
Do you have a router in your workshop?


How do you all cut the phenolic coated cardboard tubing?

I'm getting the avionics bay set up for my Madcow 4" agm-33 and I'd like to cut about a 1" section of the airframe that will be permanently bonded to the avionics bay so that things like static ports and switch holes stay lined up. How do you get a good clean straight cut on the tubing?
 
Do you have a router in your workshop?

Router? yes
Router table? no

I think power tools would be overkill for the kind of tubing we're talking about here... It's cardboard tubing with an outer phenolic "paper" wrap.
 
its all about cutting perfect, no matter what it is...here is my way: build a "U" profile with wood at same dimensions as your tube (and longer as the tube). Top of the "U" is same line as top of tube inside. Bring your router in position on the top, fix it so he cannot move. Close the end of the "U" profile so your tube inside cannot move in the horizontal.
Start your router where you want to cut, turn in a smooth movement with the other hand the tube at same time. Sounds weird, it is not ..believe me I cut every tube like this in seconds...By the way, same setup for sliding tubes perfectly..but this time fix the tube inside the profile and move along with the router..perfect slots...I will post you some pictures...
 
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