Kilz Rocks

Originally posted by ultrasonicTim
I just tried Kilz for the first time. The thing I was concerned about is the weight of my rocket after applying the stuff. I didn't think to weigh the rocket beforehand but now that the Kilz is on it just feels like it weighs a "ton". Anyone else notice this? Am I just paranoid?

Thanks,

Tim

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I, too, just tried Kilz.

I used a Semroc Lil' Ivan as my test subject. Before using Kilz, it weighed in at 29 grams. One thin coat. Afterwards, 33.5 grams. Almost a 15% increase. My normal method is to use Sandable Primer from either Plasti-Kote or Dupli-Color, but I've never checked the weight, so I don't know if they're comparable.

it's a very high build primer but it shouldn't matter weight wise .. other primers take 2 or 3 coats or kilz takes 1 coat and one sanding.. I kinda like that

I don't use it for everything but I use it when I can.

I picked up some regular kilz today and I pefer it over the low VOC. The orderless low VOC should be advoided, it does not cover as well and it does not sand well. Stick to the original

Mark

Originally posted by ounderfla69
I The orderless low VOC should be advoided, it does not cover as well and it does not sand well. Stick to the original

Mark

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Agree 100% - just spent a very frustrating day sanding down the water-based Kilz on my large (10" diameter) L3 project (seehere ) . I will NEVER use this stuff again!

I may try the spray can Kilz, but only on a low value project this time.

Originally posted by ultrasonicTim
I just tried Kilz for the first time. The thing I was concerned about is the weight of my rocket after applying the stuff. I didn't think to weigh the rocket beforehand but now that the Kilz is on it just feels like it weighs a "ton". Anyone else notice this? Am I just paranoid?

Thanks,

Tim

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My SLS Jaguar feels very heavy. I weighed it and it is way over what SLS says it should weigh. However, I don't believe they weighed it with the 24mm adaptor in it like I did. Unfortunately, I permanently glued the adaptor in so I will never know.

My rocket does weigh less than the Rocksim model does. I think this is because the Rocksim model does have the 24mm adaptor. Unfortunately, I weighed my Jaguar without the chute.

I will weigh my chute and report back.

Amazing what you learn if you only read. I need to do more of it.

Hey Stymye aka Andy, you been hiding this from us. HA HA. No wonding your Rockets look the way they do.


See you Sat.

Irv

good one Irv,

yes Kilz original spray is a great product! but I've only begun using it in myself the last 3-4 months.

but the airbrush and clearcoat are still the secret to a killer paintjob for me...

My18 mm fatboy.I sprayed the clear on this morning ,no kilz involved.

That's fabulous, I'm jealous I can't wait ti see it on Sat.

IRV:kill:

Originally posted by stymye
My18 mm fatboy.I sprayed the clear on this morning ,no kilz involved.

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On a sunny day, I will take some pics of my first 2 airbrushed rockets.

How did you do the flames? Did you make a template?

That is a cool paint job!

I used Kilz for the first time a few weeks ago and I'm hooked. I bought it at Home Depot for just under $4 a can. I stopped at Lowe's during lunch today and they have a contractor pack with six cans for $17.56...that's less than $3 a can!

I ran out over the weekend and started to use some Krylon primer. didn't realize how poorly this stuff covered until I tried the Kilz.

Well,
I did discover that Kilz WILL react to Krylon. I let the Kilz dry for about a week then put a heavy coat of Krylon gloss white over it. It attacked the Kilz along 1 of the fin body tube joints. It wasn't bad and I will continue to use Kilz, but I will probably hit it with a couple coats of my Plastikote primer before laying on the Krylon!

Really? How long did it take before it "attacked" the Kilz? I used Kilz on 4 rockets recently and then put a coat of Krylon flat white. They have been taht way for over a week and I haven't noticed anything. I painted one of them with water colors (airbrush) and then Krylon clear coat. It looks fine to me.

Thanks

Originally posted by MaxPower
On a sunny day, I will take some pics of my first 2 airbrushed rockets.

How did you do the flames? Did you make a template?

That is a cool paint job!

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Thanks,
I printed the design to printer paper , cut it out, sprayed it with 3m adhesive (not too much) let it dry for 30 min,applied it over the prepainted flame colors, and sprayed the rest of the rocket.

the nosecone was painted seperate.
I used the airbrush and createx paints.

look forward to seeing your first AB rockets!

Originally posted by rokitflite
Well,
I did discover that Kilz WILL react to Krylon. I let the Kilz dry for about a week then put a heavy coat of Krylon gloss white over it. It attacked the Kilz along 1 of the fin body tube joints. It wasn't bad and I will continue to use Kilz, but I will probably hit it with a couple coats of my Plastikote primer before laying on the Krylon!

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You said "heavy" coat. Never put a heavy coat of anything over something of a different substrate. You're just asking for trouble there. Put a thin coat first, then recoat. In fact, you should never use a heavy coat of anything, period.

I used to spend a fortune on primer. For instance, on one 8" tube booster could use up several cans easily. 20 bucks here and 20 bucks there, and it begins to add up. Thank you guys for discussing Kilz.

My 2 cents:

What I discovered is that I can actually roll the Kilz on with a 3" roller.
I let it dry for a day or two and then wetsand it with 400.
So far, this looks like it will work really well. I might hit it with a very light coat of spray can kilz..but so far, I don't think this will be necessary.

thanks again! the money saved on 20 cans of primer = 1 "baby" K motor.

Dave

Originally posted by RoyGreen
You said "heavy" coat. Never put a heavy coat of anything over something of a different substrate. You're just asking for trouble there. Put a thin coat first, then recoat. In fact, you should never use a heavy coat of anything, period.

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Well,
I have been painting rockets this way for years, period. Who taught me this? Lee Piester & Bill Stine who are somewhat familiar with painting rockets. The paint jobs on my models are basically flawless. Putting on a single, heavy coat prevents any sort of orange peeling and the fast drying Krylon is the easiest paint to use this technique with. I am simply stating that Kilz has a problem with this technique.

Max,
It happened about 5 minutes after the Krylon was applied. Like I said it was in one of the fin joints where the paint gathered and remained un-cured the longest. If it doesn't happen within the first few minutes you should be OK. I tried to get a picture of it, but my camera would not pick it up... It's on the fin with the "3".

I've been using the spray Kilz primer for over 2 years. I use it on every rocket I build and I swear by it.

Here' what works best for me -
I lay on a heavy coat of Kilz first. Let it dry until I can no longer 'smell' it.
Then I hit it with 150grit paper and take it down to where I can begin to see the BT color.

At this point I can now see any irregualrities that need extra attention and these get filled with Bondo Spot Putty. Once the putty dries I knock it off with 220 paper.

Then I hit it with one more light coat of Kilz and I knock that down with 220.

When sanding I always take it down to where I can begin seeing the BT color show through. This way the primer ends up adding very little weight.

Then it's Krylon. I've never had a problem with Krylon (or anything else) reacting to the Kilz as long as the Kilz coat passes the 'sniff' test.

Using Kilz generally eliminates the need to do any balsa or spiral filling.

Originally posted by rokitflite
Well,
I have been painting rockets this way for years, period. Who taught me this? Lee Piester & Bill Stine who are somewhat familiar with painting rockets. The paint jobs on my models are basically flawless. Putting on a single, heavy coat prevents any sort of orange peeling and the fast drying Krylon is the easiest paint to use this technique with. I am simply stating that Kilz has a problem with this technique.

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All I'm saying is you're spraying Krylon (you don't say what type, but I assume its the interior/exterior stuff) which is a lacquer, over Kilz which is an oil-based enamel. That has always been considered bad news. It may be that Kilz's large solids content vs. overwhelming the surface with a heavy coat masks the problem. That the cracking occurred at a fin joint isn't that surprizing, as the amount of paint in a corner is greater than on the surface; solvents may not have completely left by the time you applied the top coat.

Heavy coats are susceptable to runs, and if you're able to control it, more power to you.

Agreed,
But I am pretty sure that the solvents on the Kilz were totally dry AND I had sanded it down till it was pretty thin then waited a week. I think the heavy amount of Krylon (yes, the harsh stuff) probably re-activated the Kilz a little bit. "Drip Control" is exactly why I use Krylon. After I apply it I can turn and tip the model to discourage drips for a minute or so until it starts to set. Anyway, Kilz DOES rock and I am amazed at the finish I got with NO sanding sealer and minimum priming!

Scott, I think your right about the heavy coat of krylon effecting the primer, I've had the same thing happen.

I realised lighter coats work best(for me) ,If kilz doesn't work for you thats cool,it's not the only game in town.because I've seen a few of your paintjobs!

Now I gotta try to get better with my airbrush to try to catch up with some of your masterpieces!!!

Originally posted by rokitflite
Well,
I have been painting rockets this way for years, period. Who taught me this? Lee Piester & Bill Stine who are somewhat familiar with painting rockets. The paint jobs on my models are basically flawless.

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So... what's your point?


It's a shame you weren't able to make it to NARCON this year to hook up with Lee again.

All I'm saying is you're spraying Krylon (you don't say what type, but I assume its the interior/exterior stuff) which is a lacquer, over Kilz which is an oil-based enamel.

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Of course I could be wrong but I am pretty sure Krylon Spray paint is not lacquer based.

If it were, I think we would have seen problems.

Its well known that you shold never use lacquer over enamel. Enamel over lacquer is generally OK.

kilz,almost filler and primer all in one.where is a good place to get this stuff? does walmart have it or does an auto place have it....thanks...

Should be at Walmart or the local home improvement store.
Reed

well, went to walmart but they didn't have the kilz primer. they did have kilz paint though. the cans i looked at online says sealer,primer, stain blocker, is this it?....thanks...

Originally posted by joker
well, went to walmart but they didn't have the kilz primer. they did have kilz paint though. the cans i looked at online says sealer,primer, stain blocker, is this it?....thanks...

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Thats what I use.

this what the spray version looks like

Originally posted by stevem
this what the spray version looks like

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Yea thats the stuff.