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Mad Rocketeer

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I just tried Kilz primer for the first time yesterday. Wow! In just a few quick squirts (one very quickly applied layer), my fins (unfilled except for an unsuccessful attempt to soak in some thin CA, which deposited a little in the depressions of the balsa) looked like they had been papered. No other filler used. At that, I probably put it on too thick. I'll sand these to thin the primer, remove the masking tape, prime the tube and all (no need to fill the spirals first, based on what I've seen so far), sand to thin if needed, then paint. Do I need a layer of Krylon primer over this stuff for compatibility or best finish, or would that just be a waste of primer? How long should I let the Kilz wait before sanding it? From what I've seen so far, this stuff rocks!
 
To answer a few of your questions

1) No, you don't need another primer. If painting with Krylon or Rustoleum, after primering with Kilz and sanding I just go at it with the color coats. If, however, you are going to finish with lacquer paints (like Duplicolor), then you do have to add another lacquer-compatible primer on top of the Kilz. Kilz won't work with lacquer paints. It's perfectly fine for enamals like Krylon, though.

2) After Kilz primer, I wait 24 hours then sand with 320 grit. I then hit it with Kilz again, and this time wait 48 hours. Wet sand with 400 grit. Then color coats.

Before puttting on color you want to be sure the primer has "vented" all the solvents. If not, your color coats can have problems like aligatoring and such. If you're only are going to do one Kilz coat, then I'd wait 48 hours before sanding. It may not be necessary to wait this long, but my first couple times with Kilz I rushed and waited only 24 hours. Sometimes I had problems with the finish coats. Since changing to the method I described in #2, I've had no problems. Perhaps it was just me, but my "new" method works so I'm sticking with it.
 


I've been using "KilZ" for years... I agree, you can't beat for speed. Mark also has some good points above. The most basic
thing is to take your time when finishing your rockets.

I can build a rocket in one night... but will spend weeks finishing it.

On the down side Mr MadRocketeer, now that you know our secret... will will have to kill you...LOL!!!
 
I've been using Kilz and Krylon on all my Rockets. Works great and looks good.

Cliff
 
Just curious....This is a spray can version of Kilz?

Anyone with experience brushing on the stuff?
 
You can definitely get Kilz original in a spray can, though I'm not sure about the Kilz that is latex-based. I have done some brushing on with a foam brush and have not been pleased. The brush leaves ridges that take a while to remove, while the spray leaves a smooth coat. I wish I could spray the Kilz through an airbrush, but it's too high in solids. It might work, though, with a paint gun...
Reed
 
I found original Kilz in a spray can at Sears, $3 a can. it goes on really thick and sands down really nicely.
 
It should. Just rough up the surface with some sandpaper (220 grit should be fine). I think there is only one problem I have encountered using Kilz: If you use the original formula and then water-based paints, the paints will tend to bead up more than if you use the Latex-based stuff. Found this out via experience.
Reed
 
yes Kilz rocks
just make >sure< it's completely dry(sniff test) before painting
 
Is Sears the only place that has the spray cans?

About airbrushing... you would have to strain it then reduce it down to spray. I wonder if it would still have all the same qualities?

Reed Goodwin, you don't get good results with kilz if you use a water based top coat? All my airbrush paints are acrylics (water based?). Maybe Kilz isn't for me? I was excited after reading the top post but before I try it, I want to make sure it is OK to use with my airbrush paints.

Thanks
 
They might have it at Home Depot, but I haven't looked. I'll check this weekend.
 
lowes has it

Maxpower- I have airbrushed over it .. but I always put down a coat of krylon white first..nomatter what primer I use.
It's a great basecoat for airbrushing.

the kilz will sometimes leave tiny pinholes if sprayed too heavy
 
Stymye, so you prime with Kilz, then you prime with Krylon, then you airbrush?

Have you tried airbrushing Kilz?

Thanks
 
I don't get the need for another primer before using a lacquer paint. Any sandable primer is lacquer based and if you wait long enough for it to degas, it should be fine with any lacquer or enamel paint. The only primer I ran into problems with was Krylon gray and that was all my fault because I was in a hurry and didn't wait for it to degas.

I can see using Krylon white as a surface primer though, as it's thin and sands to a glassy finish very easily.
 
sorry I wasn't very clear about that .. I paint it with krylon white >paint<, not the white primer... than attack it with the airbrush


no I havent tried airbrushing kilz ... the pigment is way too thick for that.. and thinning it down would defeat the purpose.
 
I think you were clear (after re-reading your post). I read it too fast.

So whatever primer you use you still use Krylon white paint on top of the primer before airbrushing. I am very new to airbrushing and have been using pre-reduced acrylics. I used Krylon white primer and that seemed OK. I only have used it on my daughter's Quark and am now trying it on my son's pinewood derby car. The Quark looks nice (but I forgot to glue the launch lug first. D'oh!)

I liked the idea of using Kilz based on the original post. Have you tried airbrushing Kilz?

Thanks for the help!
 
Have you tried airbrushing Kilz?

Thanks [/B]
Click to expand...


I have tried thinning the heck out of it and airbrushing. Not so hot on the results. The high solids content that make Kilz such a great primer tend to gum things up.

What does work is a touchup spraygun.

I like it becuse I can get the Kilz water based and use it indoors.

I have found that Kilz does clog up sandpaper and that a Scotchbrite pad works real good for sanding it.

A
 
My bad, Stymye. A white paint undercoat is always a good idea as well, particularly if you're looking for bright colors.
 
I bought my spray can of Kilz at Wal-Mart. It was in the paint section, but not next to the Krylon.

If I recall correctly, the Kilz can says you can color coat over it in about 15 minutes. I never trust that sort of thing though. The sniff test is my guide.
 
Looks like Mad Rock has come back into the fold,
we have converted him!

Kilz is just so easy and great to use, I don't even care if the spray can costs $3 or $4 or if most of it ends up as wasted overspray (yes, that's CHEAPO Dave saying that!)

You guys that have not tried this product yet, we are waiting for you on the other side....
 
Originally posted by Mad Rocketeer
I bought my spray can of Kilz at Wal-Mart. It was in the paint section, but not next to the Krylon.

If I recall correctly, the Kilz can says you can color coat over it in about 15 minutes. I never trust that sort of thing though. The sniff test is my guide.
Click to expand...

We use Kilz as primer when helping the Scouts build Pinewood derby cars. It fills the grain, gets sanded in about 20 minutes and then the color coat goes on. The finish is not world class but we have never had any gross failures like alligatoring, peeling or bubbling. Drips, pools and puddles are another story.........
 
Often applying paint while the base coat is wet is OK too. Rustoleum paints say "recoat within 1 hour or after 24 hours".
 
The other great primer is Bin Zinsser Cover Stain Primer - it is in a gold and white can right next to Kilz in Home Depot and Lowes...
It is a Oil-Base Primer-Sealer. The nice thing about this product is it does not get the same tiny air bubbles that you sometimes get with Kilz. It also goes on very think and sands as smooth as a baby's bottom.

The other great about it is that you can sand it after as little as 15 minutes of dry time - assuming you don't have large drips and runs.

It works on every surface - Fiberglass, wood, paper, epoxy, etc.

Now the one more thing I love this product for (and Kilz works as well) is for plastic nose cones...although it still is not a perfect bond (what does bond well to the plastic cones) but once you have sanded the uneven spots where the two halves of the nose cones are joined - for that matter I rough up the entire cone - I spray this on thick and sand with 220 or 320 grit sand paper and once again end up with a perfectly smooth cone...

I have also never had an issue with any brand of spray paints (Krylon, Rustoleum or Duplicote) over this product...

Make sure you get the Gold & White can - there is a red can that shellac based - It will work as well but the Gold can is the ticket...
 
Originally posted by powderburner
Looks like Mad Rock has come back into the fold,
we have converted him!

Kilz is just so easy and great to use, I don't even care if the spray can costs $3 or $4 or if most of it ends up as wasted overspray (yes, that's CHEAPO Dave saying that!)

You guys that have not tried this product yet, we are waiting for you on the other side....
Click to expand...
Amen, and pass the plate! ;) :D

Yep. I like it!

Originally posted by Hogan3276
The other great primer is Bin Zinsser Cover Stain Primer - it is in a gold and white can right next to Kilz in Home Depot and Lowes...
It is a Oil-Base Primer-Sealer. The nice thing about this product is it does not get the same tiny air bubbles that you sometimes get with Kilz. It also goes on very think and sands as smooth as a baby's bottom.

The other great about it is that you can sand it after as little as 15 minutes of dry time - assuming you don't have large drips and runs.

It works on every surface - Fiberglass, wood, paper, epoxy, etc.

Now the one more thing I love this product for (and Kilz works as well) is for plastic nose cones...although it still is not a perfect bond (what does bond well to the plastic cones) but once you have sanded the uneven spots where the two halves of the nose cones are joined - for that matter I rough up the entire cone - I spray this on thick and sand with 220 or 320 grit sand paper and once again end up with a perfectly smooth cone...

I have also never had an issue with any brand of spray paints (Krylon, Rustoleum or Duplicote) over this product...

Make sure you get the Gold & White can - there is a red can that shellac based - It will work as well but the Gold can is the ticket...
Click to expand...
I looked while I was in Wal-Mart today, but I didn't see the Bin Zinsser. I'll look for it next time I'm out at Lowes, and maybe I'll buy some to compare. I saw the bubbling in the Kilz, but that's not difficult to manage. Still, no bubbles is better.

I tend to let the seam show on nose cones, but that's mainly because I haven't found the right stuff to fill them with. I've heard that Fill-N-Finish sticks to plastic nose cones well, but I can't picture that. I've heard that Bondo spot putty is good for that too, which is easier to visualize working well. I usually use Krylon Fusion white as a primer for plastic surfaces when I paint them. THe Fusion sticks particularly well, so I either do the whole coat in Fusion or at least use a layer of the white as a primer/base. I could see applying Kilz or Bin Zinsser over it, then doing a color coat. Watch the line disappear! :)

How do these high solids primers stand up against impacts? Do they tend to chip or flake worse than the regular primers? Seems like the extra thickness might come at a price. Probably worth it if so, but I wondered.
 
I have never noticed it being more brittle - except for on the cone but we have already been through that.

I have used the Bin brand now for the past 4 years and will not use anything else...
 
I saw the bin brand at Home Depot but I picked up 2 cans of Kilz. I hope to join you on the other side soon.
 
The Kilz sands well, but, being high solids and easily sandable, it does make a lot of dust in the process. Have at least a couple of good tack cloths handy. One might even be able to make use of a vacuum or canned air. :D Blowing the dust loose then cleaning with a tack cloth is what I've been doing, and it works fine. (Just turn your head before drawing that deep breath.) The tack cloth will need washing before it's used for anything else. Worth it? Oh yeah! Even at twice the price. :cool:

It's nice here on the other side. I'm still looking for the gold, but the sidewalks have no cracks. :cool: :D
 
I saw that Zinsser stuff today when I went for some Kilz, but I wasn't sure if this was the stuff you all were referring to so I got the usual Kilz. I was hoping to find the Kilz2 in a spray can, but I was mistaken in that Kilz2 doesn't come in an aerosol can. Oh well. I'll live.
Reed
 
Originally posted by Reed Goodwin
I saw that Zinsser stuff today when I went for some Kilz, but I wasn't sure if this was the stuff you all were referring to so I got the usual Kilz. I was hoping to find the Kilz2 in a spray can, but I was mistaken in that Kilz2 doesn't come in an aerosol can. Oh well. I'll live.
Reed
Click to expand...
I first heard of the Zinsser stuff in this thread and have not seen any yet. Sounds good though. The Kilz in the spray can is excellent. I wish they had it in 8 oz. friction lid cans too. Then it could be brushed into tube spirals, and sanded before spraying, using less primer and being quicker. They have quarts, but that's a lot for the purpose. I haven't tried the Kilz2. Is that the odor free stuff?
 

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