"Positive Motor Retention"

Loopy, that sounds encouraging, but I think I'll just go with these threaded inserts I have now. Between making a hole in the metal and bending it into the right shape, I don't think Kaplow Clips are right for me. T-nuts do look cool though.

I bent some zinc (?) for my Callisto.

Here is a picture (with the 29-38mm adapter and a 29/40-120 motor):

Wow, I have seen that picture so many times. It was one of many pieces that convinced me to try Kaplow clips. But now that I actually have the metal in my hands, I'm not sure if I wanna trust a 90 dollar case to it.


Oh man I just looked at the threaded insert and the centering ring, and the insert is like 1/2" long, and the CR is like 3/16" inch in thickness! What do I do?

Originally posted by Daedalus
I use Rowes retainers because once you get over 24mm the whole retainer is interchanged between models so you only need one in each size (unless you want a flat retainer and a cone retainer for different looks, oh, and different colours too). Each new model just requires captive nuts building in to the rear centering ring - they can also be retrofitted to existing models with the supplied threaded inserts.

https://www.rowesretainers.co.uk/

Just a happy customer.

Click to expand...

As another happy customer, I'll definitely second this!

The Rowes Retainers are very good build quality, and there are versions that are attached as you mention above, as well as versions where you epoxy the base to the motor mount tube, and screw on the standard or coned retainer.

The coned retainers are very, very cool. Not the cheapest, but you are paying for very good quality.

I've also used the Aeropack retainers and the motor retainers sold by Giant Leap, and again, they are really well made, and I can highly recommend them.

The Rowes Retainers coned motor retainers have just got that undeniable coolness, where everyone goes "ooohhhh" when you turn up at the launch site with a rocket fitted with one.

All the best,

Richard

I would prefer not to spend more than 13 dollars on "undeniable coolness" when I can get the "classic do-it-yourself look" for less than 5 bucks with some screws and nuts.

I know this method has been done, I'm just wondering what you think about this metal I mentioned in earlier posts, and what the answers are to some of my questions.

Thanks!

I flew my Callisto on an F20 today with friction-fit only and it was fine. The motor was so tight that I put all my weight on the adapter to try to get it in and it still stuck out 1". I clamped the motor in a vice to get it out. (I wouldn't do that for reloadable motor!)

Yeah, but I'm going for H's and I's, and I'm definitely using a reloadable motor!

If you don't make it too tight you could use a big dowel and push it out from the top. I've done that a few times and it doesn't damage the motor. The adapter was loose enough that I could take it out by hand (not too easily), so if the motor was that not as tight I'm sure it would be fine. I might not trust it alone, but with metal clips it should be enough. (I don't have any clips that fit SU motors).

You should be fine with the metal strips - especially if you curve the top around the end of the motor. A surface that is curved around the end is much less likely to be straightened out by an ejection charge than a flat surface. make them like the picture above and you'll be fine.