Working with G10

I'm currently building a scratch built project that uses .125 G10 FG for the fins, CR's and bulkheads.
I have cut my own fins from this material before using a jigsaw and a bunch of blades But cutting CR's and bulkplates acurately has proven to be a bit tough.
Some kind of adjustable hole saw with tungsten blades maybe?

Kevin C

I have used diamond blades on the dremel before to cut G10 - they make quick work it of. As for centering rings - I had a carbide toolbit that I ground and used in a fly cutter. I only did that once. I just use plywood as it bonds better to most body tubes and isn't as heavy as G10. Also have found that a sanding drum is great for shaping G10 - maybe 60 grit works probably the best.

Edward

... either way, make sure you wear a mask when cutting or shaping G10. It will generate a lot of fiberglass dust, and that's bad news for your lungs

I just finished my G10 fins today using the Dremel. I got 4 .125 #15 fins from Giant Leap and I had to tweak the root depth. The sanding drum Edward mentioned is what I used and it was easy. The only goof was me doing it w/o wearing a mask while a small stack of masks was 5 feet away. I had the rocket building fever.

I cut G10 fins with my cheapo portable table saw. But I do it outside, with a dusk mask and I wear long sleeve flannel shirt even in the middle of the summer. The fiberglas dust loves to get imbedded in your skin and make ya itch like all getout. Cutting them on a table saw requires at least a 60 tooth carbide blade and a slow hand to feed it. The big advantage is stacking all three or four fins after they are cut out and trimming them at the same time to make them identical. Then they are off to the belt sander to round the chords.

Gimme birch centering rings any day. If you must, then look into a fly cutter.

Chuck