clearcoat over decals?

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NO not rubbing alcohol, some rubbing alcohols have oils in them, and/or high water content.

I know what you mean though, however i would suggest that the bottle says "isopropyl alcohol"


I have had excellent results from Testors or Model masters "Top coat" clear and lately I have been using Model masters "Pearl coat" clear over my whites...

Its very user friendly, dries fast, but like anything else, dont spray too close or it will run and turn yellow.

I tried using Krylon's Crystal clear howver i wasnt pleased with the results as in my case it tuned flat. not clear.... I had to spray many multiple coats to get it to shine.


Very true. I may have used the Wrong term (rubbing alcohol) what I use is the 97% isoproyl

Probably because I could not spell Isopropyl .. LOL
 
Where do you find Future?

I tried Home Depot, Walmart and Kroger grocery store with no luck.

I just used Rustoleum 2x gloss on my Wizard Space Transport posted in the Wizard gallery with decidedly mix results.

Body tube/fins: no problem with paint or decals. Primer Rustoleum 2x (last time. Nozzle prone to plugging. I like the Rustoleum Auto Primer much better.) Pink is Krylon, the rest is 2x Rustoleum. Had to sand down on small drip at the base of the body tube. (I know mixing brands of paint is not always a good idea, but I've had no problem applying Krylon over Rustoleum primer.

Nose cone: had problems here. Paint is the same pink as above. Paint blistered -for lack of a better name - in places. Decals are fine. I did not prime the nose cone. I guessing this was the root of the problem.

These were very old decals I found at LHS. Decals were prone to breaking and had to applied gingerly.

// Micro: Thanks for posting the pics of your trials.//

Bones


It happens. I think a lot of people out there dont know that the molding process leaves a waxy residue on plastic parts. I usually wash my plastic pieces with dish soap and water to remove any oily residue on the plastic and hit it up with some 400-600 sandpaper, something fine enough to knock down any shine, then prime N' paint....
 
It happens. I think a lot of people out there dont know that the molding process leaves a waxy residue on plastic parts. I usually wash my plastic pieces with dish soap and water to remove any oily residue on the plastic and hit it up with some 400-600 sandpaper, something fine enough to knock down any shine, then prime N' paint....

Sorry have to Object again to this MIS-conception perpetuated by many very good Plastic model magazines and modelers but Soap...ALL & ANY Soap.... ALWAYS leaves a residue on plastics. 70% or better Isopropyl Alcohol removes all mold release residue without adding any fish-eye producing soap residue. Many of us Plastic modelers have been trying to correct this Soapy water washing mis-info issue for decades...it just keeps getting repeated.

If you think you must wash your plastic parts, do so in Warm SOAP FREE water with a Fine or ultrafine scotchbrite pad. DO NOT ADD ANY Dishwashing detergent or soap. Towel dry and let washed parts sit over night to ensure all water has completely evaporated before attempting to prime or paint.
 
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