Downscales of some classics

Ya - I've rolled a few small tubes on brass tubing - I found that three layers of 20# computer paper is about .0013" thick - perfect for Body Tubes. I use a thined Elmer's white glue painted on. Once dry, the tubes are tough and durable.

Greg

Here's one of my favorites from the old days. Tango Papa decals really made quite a difference. Body tubes and such courtesy of Fliskits.

is that a micro maxx powered downscale or 13mm? either way very nice downscale

Not sure this could be considered a classic? but it's the smallest Crayon I've seen

Originally posted by Micromeister
is that a micro maxx powered downscale or 13mm? either way very nice downscale

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Thanks. It's a Micromaxx. Outer body tubes are bt-3s. I haven't had a chance to fly her yet. Soon though.

Originally posted by Blades
Thanks. It's a Micromaxx. Outer body tubes are bt-3s. I haven't had a chance to fly her yet. Soon though.

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Very Sleek! Way Kewl model, Can't wait to hear how she flys.


I was looking back at which micro's I'd posted since we last found this thread.

Here's one that was missed. as micro ThumbTack Odd-roc. Yes that's as far as the motor goes in and its as stable as any "spool" rocket i've seen fly but very hard to see...Man is it quick off the pad!

Last night was very still, a perfect evening to test a few new rockets. The Andromeda flew first and it couldn't have been more perfect. An arrow straight boost to ~100 ft with a nice return on streamer. Another microscale also flew. The classic Astron Sprint. Textbook flight for it although I count myself lucky that I was able to see the ejection charge. That little beggar is fast. I'm really impressed with the Micromaxx engines. Truly some great performance out of such a tiny package. No launch pics, my poor old camera just isn't fast enough. (sigh)

Oops! Here's the Sprint.

Originally posted by Blades
Oops! Here's the Sprint.

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Altitiude! precisely why I build my micro Sprint in T4 (.448") body to .281" Still gets about 130' with the micro Pop lug. but I can see the model the whole flight
I'm with you Blade Even with the camera on Burst mode I can't seem to catch these micro motor models off the pad with any accuracy Here's my sprint on the pad just before launch. NOPE didn't even come close to catching the liftoff

I have gotten my 3 year old into rocketing with the rest of the family and I think she would love a tiny rocket like this. I only do scratch buils so I have a question. Do thise little 13mm engines have a deployment charge so her little rocket can have a streamer?

13mm or 6mm micor maxx motors, generally have either a streamer or chute recovery. Some very light models employ simple "nose blow" or sometimes called "Break apart" recovery where the nose and shock cord are blown off at ejection to change to aerodynamics of the model to allow it to fall (flutter) back to earth instead of streamline in "lawn dart" style.
Both of the Sprints we have just been discussing are micro-maxx powered 6mm motor birds. mine is 10.5mm body I'm not sure what the diameter of Blades is I believe it's T3 tubing which is 3/8" OD.
Hope this helps.

Yah that was awesome, thanks for helping a newbie !!

Micromeister is right. My Sprint uses a bt-3 body tube. That's the smallest possible you can use if you want the Sprint boattail.

I am a little concerned about something. I finished this littel rocket today and it holds an 13mm A10-3 and will motor weighs in at 14.5 grams.....Do I need to add some weight to this little bugger? The NC weighs in at nothing (foam) so i could add some weight there.

Easiest way to find out is to perform a swing test.
load the model up flight ready, less the igniter. tie a slip knot in a length of heavy thread of light twine. balance the model at the CG with the slip knot. in an open field or someplace where you can swing the model over your head in circle. start the model out they let out about 6 to 8 feet of line swinging the model fast enough to keep it straight out on the end of the string.
Observe the flight. If the model flys forward in the direction of your swing..... That's great the model will be stable. If the model turns over flying backwards, Stays sideways or rolls around on the string.. You'll need to add some nose weight.
I keep a blob of clay with me, during swing tests. add a little clay to the side of the nosecone and try again. if that wasn't enough add more, if you think you added to much take a little off and re-swing.
At some point the model will fly nose first and level. Now you can remove the clay for the nose cone. and either insert it inside a hollow plastic cone securing with a (LITTLE) epoxy. or trade the clay for bb's, fishing split shot or #9 lead shot. helds with a little epoxy or glue. After permanent installation I like to swing the model one more time just to ensure I got the nose weight right.
If it's a balsa nose you may have to drill it out to add the weight, Usually the extra weight of the glue or epoxy used to secure the noseweight will offset any weight lost by the drilling
Hope this helps.

PS: You can see this technique better in ANY additions of G.Harry Stines book "The Handbook of Rocketry". I strongly recommend every model rocketeer own at least one copy

Blades,

Very nice Sprint and Andromeda!

It's nice to see that everyone isn't just into more power.

I like both upscales and downscales of classic kits but it seems like I always make more downscales.

Thanks Bobh. It's been fun recreating some of the classics from my younger days. I've got more in the queu. Higher powered rockets intrique me, but with a new house to pay for, the downscaled rockets are more in my price range.