Good Primer

A good primer is essential for a good start to a P.J. (Paint Job)

Finding one that will not react with your final paints can be one of your first obstacles...

since the primer is a base coat used to fill in minor imperfections, and generaly give a smooth starting point for a PJ, I had become accustomed to using the "Cheaper" stuff ($0.89 a can at Wal Mart), and then use the money I saved and put Rustoleum on for the PJ (Rustoleum has an excellent glaze added in for those wet look PJ's). But the cheap primer reacted with the Rustoleum, and I ended up with the ever cracking PJ.

So if you buy Krylon Paint, use Krylon Primer and the same goes with Rustoleum...but then there is this white can of stuff that I found totally by accident...

I ran out of primer, and was broke, so I searched the shelves and found this can of white spray (Rattle Can) paint. I sprayed it on, and it went on thick, and filled in nearly all my minor imperfections. It dried rather quickly, and was extremely sandable. This stuff works like a dream...and best of all, it does not react to any of the paints I have tried out on it.

Used to kill mildew stains on wall paint, "Kilz" is by far the best primer I have ever used. A little pricey @ $4.13 a can at Wally World, but I believe you can find it a little cheaper at your Home Depots (Rocket Depot )

Remember, White can, w/ Red lettering that says KILZ

I just painted a 9' tall X 4"dia. RDS "Quasar" rocket (notice my Avatar) with 3 cans of Kilz, and 3 cans of "Hot Pink" flouescent paint, and the white primer of Kilz makes for an excellent back drop of these kinds of hard to use paints.

Try it, the only thing thicker is Automotive pro grade primer...

Johnnie Paul

I finally bit the bullet and bought Kilz primer for the first time to use an a couple of projects that are pending completion right now. I wish I had used it on everything now that I've tried it. I have never used a highter fill or easier to sand primer. It costs more per can, but I use less of it than other primers, nearly making up the difference. I will be spraying a couple of different brands of paint on it the next time the humidity drops below 50%, including Krylon and Duplicolor. I will post results immediately afterward. ( I realize that some of you are saying I told you so even as they read this. )
I also used Krylon Fusion for plastics for the first time and was impressed by its performance. The red is a very nice color. I will be spraying white Fusion onto the type of plastic used to mold Crayon parts as a primer for other Krylon paints. I will post results of this expirement as soon as available.

I just recently tried the "high solids" primers. I got the Zinser brand of stain blocking primer, which is pretty much the same thing as Kilz. It does fill nicely, dries quickly and has so far been compatabile with rustolem and Wally world overcoats. I don't think I'll go back to other primers.

Bob,

I just painted a portion (pics to follow) of my mini-Armageddon with Duplicolor Anodized metallic blue. My primary color is Duplicolor gloss white. Best gloss white I've ever used. Takes longer to dry than Krylon but the difference in the gloss is worth the wait.

I used Duplicolor "high build" primer. I like the primer also because it is high build and fills spirals, at least on LOC body tubes and is a dream to sand. I've always use the same paint system from primer to clear coat and never have had a paint problem.

Be careful mixing paint products. A buddy of mine messed up a beautiful scratchbuild by using different paints. He got a nice "crackle finish". He's still sanding.....

Swimmer

Bob,

I just painted a portion (pics to follow) of my mini-Armageddon with Duplicolor Anodized metallic blue. My primary color is Duplicolor gloss white. Best gloss white I've ever used. Takes longer to dry than Krylon but the difference in the gloss is worth the wait.

I used Duplicolor "high build" primer. I like the primer also because it is high build and fills spirals, at least on LOC body tubes and is a dream to sand. I've always use the same paint system from primer to clear coat and never have had a paint problem.

Be careful mixing paint products. A buddy of mine messed up a beautiful scratchbuild by using different paints. He got a nice "crackle finish". He's still sanding.....

Swimmer

Must have pushed submit more than once.....Sorry, Milo

Swimmer

The heaviest primer besides automotive ( and this might even be thicker) that I know of is UV smooth prime made by PolyFiber. It can be purchased from Shadow Composites (www.shadowaero.com). It is water based, but is definitely bot water thin. It can be rolled on, brushed on, or sprayed on. although it is $65 a quart it will last you a long long time ( unless you are Carl of course) lastly it acts as sunblock for your reinforcements which can become brittle over time when exposed to UV rays. Another product available is Superfil which is an epoxy based filler that sands like butter!

HTH

p.s. i do not have PolyFiber stock in case you were wondering. :kill: