Future Floor Polish

I've heard some people use Future floor polish. So I bought some of it and before I started to apply it, I wanted to get some advice.
Do I apply it with a rag or do I spray it on? other helpful tips would be greatly appreciated

I've always just brushed it on then wiped it smoth (lightly) with a paper towel. Maybe 2 coats is all.

But I did get a new air brush for Christmas I'm still practicing with. Never tried it (airbrush) yet.

sandman

Thanx Sandman

I've been using it thru a cheap big-lots airbrush thinned with a little windshield washer fluid and .I usualy dip the nose cones in a container of full strength and hang them to dry....It has a tendency to be somewhat runny but it is good about self leveling.
dipping It works great on transparent payload sections too.they come out looking like glass.

What did I miss here?
Are you talking about using floor polish for a gloss coat over
paint? On a rocket? Got any pics? DrDon

yep....The scale modelers have been using it for years over paint
and its good over decals as well.It's basically an acrylic product to use as a hard final coating.

Does it add any substantial weight?

Dr. Don,

Future floor finish dos not add any substatial weight to a model but, it does give a protective coating over the decals.

Also, Future does not seem to effect metelic finishes like clear spray paint does.

Makes 'em nice and shiney!

sandman

Well!
I guess I'll have to go to my rocket shop and
"Polish my Mustang"!!!!!
DrDon...

The only tip I can give is to be generous and work quickly. As it starts to dry it gets very sticky.

Originally posted by Dr. Don
Well!
I guess I'll have to go to my rocket shop and
"Polish my Mustang"!!!!!
DrDon...

Click to expand...

gee, I've never heard it called 'polishing my Mustang' before

I stopped using furniture polish, it yellows as badly or worse than the clear coats.
I discovered "New finish" car polish. coats and protects the models and decals, including Alps printed decals, two coats about a week apart on most sprayed lacquers and emamels have had super results, and it never yellows!
I have a 3 year old Nike coated with "Future" floor wax, that looks like my 1983 clear coated interceptor ....way Yellow.
hope this helps

I have a nike smoke that yellowed pretty badly
and a sidewinder that yellowed as well... I assume its from the future..I had heard that future won't yellow ..

I'm not so sure about that ...Now the nike has that vintage look
like something from the 60's..

It will yellow if ya use too much. Ya gotta be cheap with it.

But it's the only thing that will work over metelic paints!

I mean the ONLY thing that works.

sandman

Sandman:
You must be talking about shinny metallic paints right? for silver and gold metallics aluminum, stainless, magnizium,titanium etc, testors master modeler matte clear is wonderful. I agree that over "mirror" gloss metallics either future or nothing but car wax. but even the atlas stainless steel in only "shinny" unfueled.

Micro...

Yes, but more importantly, some of the clear (ok most of 'em) will turn matellic paints all blotchy.

Ya don't want THAT!

sandman

Originally posted by Micromister
I stopped using furniture polish, it yellows as badly or worse than the clear coats.
I discovered "New finish" car polish. coats and protects the models and decals, including Alps printed decals, two coats about a week apart on most sprayed lacquers and emamels have had super results, and it never yellows!
I have a 3 year old Nike coated with "Future" floor wax, that looks like my 1983 clear coated interceptor ....way Yellow.
hope this helps

Click to expand...

Micromister:

I gather this "New Finish" is a specific brand - is this available in the local Walmarts & such around the country or is it something specific to the east coast? It wouldn't happen to be spelled "Nu" would it? IIRC, I saw this on a shelf somewhere recently but paid little attention to it.

Do you apply a heavy coat, let it dry to a haze, then buff it off like typical car polish? Or apply & immediately wipe it off?

Also, did you notice the yellowing with colors other than white? For example, would one see it on a yellow Warp II with the supplied black decals? Or a flat Grey Stealth? Etc, Etc... Metallics?

I've gotta try this out.
Thanx guys for the tips.

mojack:
Yes it's spelled "Nu Finish" sorry bout that, its applied, and let dry to a haze, then buffed off with a soft cloth, Slick a snake snot! it froms a cross-linked polymer finish, Much harder then waxes, but is not an acrylic like "Future floor polish". I like the stuff on very thing expect mirror "chrome" finished models...I just don't paint many models in a Chorme finish, so I'm not sure how it works over shinny metallics, it is great on plated metallics and mylars, decals and the like.

Sandman: Have you tried the Testors Master modeler series of spary metallics? If you haven't check out the stainless steel, non-buffing and the MasterModeler Matte clear for metallics. Most hobby shops carry them. the Titanium, Magnesium and Aluminium are good also, but the stainless "color" is a really nice simulation That's the trick to clear coating over metallics, matte clear first then gloss clear if you must. The only metallics I've had trouble with were the Chorme or mirro golds, in Krylon and ColorWorks, brands. As you say they should be "Lightly" coated with Future.