Cutting quantum tube?

I have a PML Mini BBX that I wanted to modify for dual piston-ejection deployment. Therefore I was planning on cutting the lower body tube just above the fin can, which would eject on drogue deployment. Any good techniques for this? I don't have a router, except for a router bit I could mount on my dremel, some kind of jig doesn't quite do the trick for me. You think a cutting wheel on a dremel will work here? Or does it get too hot and damage the quantum tube?

Oliver

I would think that it would be difficult to keep a straight edge with a dremel. I think that you would probably need to use either a table saw, band saw, or radial arm saw to get a nice clean cut. Somebody correct me if they know a better way.

Mark

Radial arm saw. With this type of cut and needing the nice straight edge I would think you'd want your stock as still as possible while cutting. The arm saw is perfect for this. With the table saw and band saw you are moving the stock so there is always a chance of wobble. If no arm saw then I would try the table saw next.

Oliver,

there are several methods you can use to cut the tube. PML recommends you use a muffler clamp around the tube as a guide and cut it with a hacksaw or equivelant up against the clamp.

Another method would be to use a pipe cutter for 2" pipes. I would not use the cutter to cut all the way through, but to rather "groove" it deeply enough that you could work a hobby saw around it to finish the work.

The other method I have used is to mark the tube and use a dremel with a asbestos cutting wheel on LOW speed, so it will not melt the plastic. you have to be careful to get on the line, but once you have it started, it goes well.

Finally, there are several articles across the web on building a simple tubing cutter for body tubes. These are pretty popular amongst the builders.

One item to note; make sure you go to the PML website and follow their guidelines on WHERE to cut.

Carl

I agree, I would use a hose clamp and a hack saw... simple and quick...

Oliver,
I just looked the kit over in Rock-Sim and it's basic set-up is just like the X-Calibur... Nose cone, body tube, coupler body tube fin set/ motor tube.
I made my X-Calibur dual Deployment by having it brake at the coupler at apogee (drougless) with 6' of kevlar shock cord and then the main comes out of the nose cone/upper body tube area. Works great. I also use a X-solve beeper, so for added room I cut the end out of the nose cone. The altimeter goes in the bottom of the upper body tube.