29mm reloadable motors

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Dr. Don

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Hey there E F & G engine experts!
I want to advance beyond D engines. I have encountered
a lot of information- enough to get confused. What exactly do
I need to put together a reloadable motor?
Motor casing ?
Forward and aft seals ?
Reload kit consisting of what ?
I was logged on to Magnum Rockets, Locprecision, Dr. Rocket
Areotech and etc. and got more questions.
Could someone just "hand" me the right hardware?
I have rockets with 29mm engine mounts 13.5cm deep.
What engines will fit ??? And what are the best places to
get these motors and reload kits.
And while I'm on this subject, what is your opinion of
Econojet engines. I can get F23-7FJ 2 for 18.95
and G38-4FJ 2 for 22.95
at my local hobby shop.
Also they have Areotech reloads from E23 thru F40
for6.95 thru 8.50
But there aren't any motor casings and the staff
hasn't a clue how to answer my questions. Thanks!!!! Don
 
First question I have is have you already put the engine hook in your 29mm rocket?

Yes: Then you will want to take a look at the Aerotech 29/40-120. It allows you to use a standard 29mm size and because of the slot in the rear (the nozzle end) the hook slides right in. I built an Aerotech Mustang and this is the reload casing that I bought. The Dr. Rocket stuff, that I can tell, A) doesn't come in that size and B) doesn't have the slot.

No: Then the sky is your limit. No matter which one you buy just make sure they are 29mm and that you have some kind of motor retention system.

Some more hints: In order to do reloads you have to buy a case and aft/fore closures. Usually they come in a set. Then you buy a reload kit which comes with all the propellant, rings, etc. What I did to figure out which RMS system to buy, I first took a look at what RMS engines were recommended for my rocket. Then looked at the reload kit for those recommendations. Usually, it tells you which casing they are compatible with. For example, with the Mustang, if you bought the 29/40-120, then you can launch it with all the RMS engines suggested.

Currently I am modifying the Aerotech Mirage Kit without the cooling mesh or engine hook. It will take all the 29mm reloads available from Aerotech and Dr. Rocket. But I had to get an motor retainer: https://rocketsilo.safeshopper.com/95/838.htm?192 Soon, I will have pictures of the whole process.

I have found that https://www.rocketsilo.com has some pretty good prices for all this stuff.
 
FYI, the Dr Rocket hardware is 29mm High Power only. they do not offer a low power case similar to the Aerotech 29/40-120.
 
unless you have more info on the RMS... I think the to post did a good job.. As far as the Econo-Jet motors.. they're great.. Especally the F23fj and the G38fj... these are Fast Black Jack motors.. right around being equil to White Lighting motors.. they put out dense black smoke like a Black Jack. They are priced good for what they are, and allow for a quick flight prep.
 
Hey There Rocket Fans!
Thanks for your responses! I am going to run out to Schaeffers'
Hobby shop this morning and spend some money! From reading
every post on the website, I'm feeling a little more confident
about what to purchase! Here's my current shopping list:
1 a container of Elmers wood filler
2 some 1/4" plywood
3 a couple packages of Econojet motors
4 that cool hole cutter tool
5 a couple of Areotech reload kits ( just
to open and examine the parts)
6 a bunch of Estes motors
7 some tranquilizers !

Does anybody know where to get motor casings in the St. Louis
area other than mail order?


This is WAY to much Fun!
 
Beware of opening reload kits for inspection. The propellant is hygroscopic, so be sure to put it pack into a zip-lock bag until you use it.

Oliver
 
Hey! Thanks for the warning!
I didn't end up getting any reloads and don't intend to until I can be convinced of the financial advantages. How many of what size engines do I launch ( as compared to buying a motor casing and reloads of the same size) until I break even?
Also, when attempting to ignite Areotech engines, I discovered they have a different ignitor with no instructions. I attempted to
try my regular aligator clips with insulators on opposite sides :
no luck! Is my 6 volt estes system not powerful enough;do I need a 12 volt power system? And/or do I need special clips?
 
12v is definately required. The aligator clips should work with a 12v source.
 
Also, it may be that tiny splinters from the copper shorten between the two copper layers. You might want to scrape along the edges before you insert the igniter to get these splinters off.

For ease of handling one can burn off the insulating layer on the open end of the igniter, split the copper bands apart and use regular alligator clips, if wanted.

Oliver
 
Hey there Mr. Oliver!
Thanks for the A "peeling" advice! I have 12 volts and need to
get out to the launch pad! Dr. Don
 
Thats to much for me I just get the first fier J.R. and I have never had a missfier but and no peeling requierd. Unless you decide to peel off more of the insulation for a better grip with the clips.
 
Klint, I was referring to the Copperhead igniters (look like copper strips with pyrogen on one end), not to the First Fires.

Oliver
 
UHG I know what they look like I ment you have to do to much t0 make the copperheads reliable (if you could call it that). And insted of doing all of that I ment I would just rather use first fire jr. Oh yeah and I have many more sucsessfull ignitons with first fire to.
 
Good tips on this, especially when dealing with the ignitors. If you want to save some real headache though, just purchase the Aerotech Ignitor Clip; it's only about three bucks and works like a dream. Moreover, mine has been used at many a Tripoli launch to help the LPR guys, as the equipment at the launch site contains aligator clips only. It works great; you will not be disapointed.

Regarding First Fire Ignitors, they are the current preffered ignitor and are now included with all new Aerotech High Power reloads. They have a coated ignitor head similar to the Copperheads, but use twin wires encased in yellow insulation instead of the dual-sided strip. You simply split the wires at the end, strip off about 1 1/2" of insulation from each wire, then connect an alligator clip to each wire and wrap the excess around the clip for additional contact.

For Low power reloads (G and lower), Aerotech recently came out with their "First Fire Junior" ignitors, which are a low power version of the bigger "First Fires". The Juniors are what you can use to replace the Copperheads.

Carl
 
I get mine from Rocket Silo. FIrst fiers are for high power and larger G's but the first fire j.r I use with my 29-40/120 casing and they work perfectly. Oh yeah they are also maid by aero tech
 
Dr. Don,

Look me up at the upcoming Elsberry launch. Hopefully I can show you first hand some of the stuff you may have questions about.


Jeff
 
do the 29/40-120 reloads come with first fire jr. or copperheads. i know high power does but do 29/40-120
 
Actually, most of the 29/40-120 reloads come with copperheads. Aerotech had planned on replacing all future reloads with First Fire Jr. ignitors when their plant burned down. Therefore, most all reloads that you'll find available will be from vendor stockpiles and will probably have copperheads.

Aerotech began replacing the ignitors starting with the high power reloads first. That is why it is more common to find First Fire's with HPR.

On a lighter note, when Aerotech production resumes, I believe that there will be no more copperheads.
 
I don't tihnk they can make First Fire igniters thin enough for D13s and the like...

We'll have to stick with Crapperheads or selfmades.

Oliver
 
I have only herd good things about Fire star or whatever there called home made ignitor kit thingy mobbober
 
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