Quick Fiberglass Question

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I recently began using .75oz. and 1.5oz. FG. I'm using BSI 20 Minute Finish Cure Epoxy, and like it just fine and find the whole Glassing Experience to be most pleasurable.
Mt Question was if there are any suitable Adhesives other than the various slow cure Epoxies that are suitable for use with Fiberglass Cloth?
What would happen if someone used Wood Glue?

As I said, I'm happy with the 20min. Stuff and will be trying Aeropoxy and Z-Poxy in the Future, along with any other Epoxies that I see commonly being used by others here, but was just curious as to if there was a non-Epoxy alternative???
 
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There's polyester resin that is pretty popular in the automotive and marine industries, but it's not too popular for rocketry. It's less expensive, but the odor is really offensive. Other than that, I can't think of any other adhesive other than epoxy.

I use a lot of epoxy and fiberglass but prefer the longer cure times of around overnight. I guess if you don't have to rely upon the epoxy soaking into a material then the shorter cure period stuff that you are using would work just fine.
 
Figured as much. The 20 Minute stuff takes overnight to set up enough to remove the Wax Paper when doing fins.
On my first Set I did the other day, I waited about 6 hours before checking them, and upon trying to pull up some of the Wax Paper, realized that they were still gummy enough that the Wax Paper would lift the Fiberglass Cloth slightly.
In some of the Videos of folks doing hand Layups on Body Tubes they mention as much about 20 Minute, that it is workable for a lot more than 20 Minutes.
I used the Polyester Resin once to try to make Micarta Scales for the Knives I make, and yes, it was messy and smelly, and I had to do it outside in one of my Sheds, plus wore a Respirator so as not to catch a whiff of the Fumes. Nasty stuff and I don't want anything to do with it again.
I'm only doing small stuff in Mid-Power now, so working in my Livingroom Shop the 20 Minute and open windows and a Fan and Nitrile Gloves are adequate by my Standards.
I think I'll save some of the little Scraps that I would otherwise Discard and if I find other Adhesives that I think might work, I'll use those Scraps and Scrap BT to try new Methods. Just for fun, you know.
 
Figured as much. The 20 Minute stuff takes overnight to set up enough to remove the Wax Paper when doing fins.
On my first Set I did the other day, I waited about 6 hours before checking them, and upon trying to pull up some of the Wax Paper, realized that they were still gummy enough that the Wax Paper would lift the Fiberglass Cloth slightly.
In some of the Videos of folks doing hand Layups on Body Tubes they mention as much about 20 Minute, that it is workable for a lot more than 20 Minutes.
I used the Polyester Resin once to try to make Micarta Scales for the Knives I make, and yes, it was messy and smelly, and I had to do it outside in one of my Sheds, plus wore a Respirator so as not to catch a whiff of the Fumes. Nasty stuff and I don't want anything to do with it again.
I'm only doing small stuff in Mid-Power now, so working in my Livingroom Shop the 20 Minute and open windows and a Fan and Nitrile Gloves are adequate by my Standards.
I think I'll save some of the little Scraps that I would otherwise Discard and if I find other Adhesives that I think might work, I'll use those Scraps and Scrap BT to try new Methods. Just for fun, you know.


DONT use Wax paper!:) just trying to help you out. it leaves a wax layer on the fins that is not good for secondary bonding. Use parchment paper used for baking. it does the same thing but does not leave the wax layer behind.:)
 
DONT use Wax paper!:) just trying to help you out. it leaves a wax layer on the fins that is not good for secondary bonding. Use parchment paper used for baking. it does the same thing but does not leave the wax layer behind.:)

Thanks for the Tip, but the Person that told me to use the Wax Paper told me to do it on the Non-Bonding Surface of Fins, and that's what I did.
It worked well, and I had to sand the Edges down anyhow to get through the excess Epoxy on them.
I was not referring to using it to say, wrap around a Body Tube.
I see what you are saying though about the Layer of Wax that was left behind on the Surfaces of the Fins.
In my recent Case, I simply lightly sanded it down, as I was worried about how well my Primer would Bond to the Surface, so it was a non-issue, but thanks for bringing it up, as it is definitely something worth mentioning in the Context of this.
Does the Parchment Paper lift away easily like the Wax Paper does? Is there a particular Brand the is particularly good for this application?
Thanks Connor for getting in on this Conversation, as I'm a Newb to the whole Glassing thing, and will take all the Help/Tips I can get.
 
The RC airplane guys will use water based acrilics or polyurathanes to glass foam planes and yes some have used wood glues. I've used 2 part casting urathanes which are as strong as epoxy in a fiberglass composite no problem. Basically the stronger the glue/resin holding the glass/carbon/kevlar/basault fibers together the stronger the end result. You need to decide how aplicable each matrix is to your project.


Richard
 
... Does the Parchment Paper lift away easily like the Wax Paper does? Is there a particular Brand the is particularly good for this application?

Parchment paper lifts much more easily than wax paper. I get whatever is available at the grocery store. You would think that wax paper would work fine, but the epoxy can penetrate the wax layer in random places. It seems that parchment paper doesn't have that issue and has come off easily any time I've tried it.

Greg
 
Yes I think parchment paper lifts more easily. I hadn't thought about the painting but you did the right thing sanding them down a little for the primer to stick. Any brand will work. i have used Walmart's cheap brand before and it seemed to work the same as the more expensive kind. glad you've gotten into the world of composites! Ive never heard of wood glue being used before:confused: Imight just have to try that to see what happens!
 
You can buy Mylar in rolls. I think it's about 1/8" thick and can be coated with wax. That will release perfectly every time and can provide almost a mirror finish if you buff the wax to a high gloss.
 
On small quick jobs as a alterative to epoxy I use ca. Thin ca will bond the glass to almost anything. If i'm looking for a little more strength, or if I'm going to sand and paint the part, I will go over the thin after its cured with medium to fill the weave a bit better. On cardboard type centering rings I almost always reinforce them with a layer of .75oz glass and thin ca. I just use a piece large enough to cover the centering ring and trim the inside with a x-acto knife and the outside with a scissors after its cured (about 10 seconds). Trims and cuts easy.

Mike
 
Thanks for all the Info.
Looks like I'll be getting me some Parchment Paper and probably just sticking with slow curing Epoxies for Builds, and experimenting on Scraps with other things like the CA and TBII.
 
I used some 15 Minute Epoxy on a layer of 1.5oz. Cloth today to do the inside of this Piece with good results.
I did'nt mix up enough Epoxy at first and it seemed to absorb right into the sanded/roughed up Plastic, so after positioning the Glass I had to quickly whip up a little more to work into it with my Gloved Finger.
So anyway, now I know that 15minute stuff works if you mix the right amount and are ready to work quick.
Since I was doing an internal layer, I simply rolled the Cloth around a short section of 24mm MMT so that I could just stick it in there and roll it onto the Inner Wall.

Tykon10AftSection 005.jpg
 
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Nice work - I also recommend parchment paper - I also use it on a flat surface for mixing thicker epoxies like rocketpoxy/JB weld/5 minute epoxy - much cheaper than using a cup every time. I also use it wrapped around a dowel for drawing fillets, laid on fillets to press them into shape and as an outer layer of the sandwich when laminating fins, etc etc.
 
Thanks Guys.
Yeah, I'm loving this Fiberglass.
JeromeK99 hooked me up, and now I'm hooked on Fiberglass.
I have a bunch in my "Wish List" on Amazon ready to be added to my Cart on Friday.
It's great because now I can re-visit some of the things I've done in the past, like my 24mm MD Crossfire with the new Techniques and Material.
I had been Papering things for Strength, and just assumed that Glassing was something that would take a lot of Resources and Time to learn. To be honest, the process of laying FG Cloth onto things is actually a lot simpler than trying to Paper everything.
It came at a good time, as I was getting kinda' frustrated with my methods.
 
And with all the odd shapes you do (transitions) you can make from card board and glass them now .
 
And with all the odd shapes you do (transitions) you can make from card board and glass them now .


Yup, and now I can use easy to shape Styrofoam Cones from the Craft Store to make stuff the shape I want and then just Glass it.
I love FG so much!
I just started compiling Parts and Plans today to so a 1.6"(BT-60) AIM-120 AMRAAM that will run on 24mm, but I will use the lightweight Glass on everything instead of Papering everything to make it nice and light.
I was going to buy a Low-Power Kit to practice on but it is easy enough to Scratch a 120 since the Specs. are readily available in my searching on the Net.

I'de insert a Pic' but I keep getting a Pop-up Warning everytime I try. Stupid Computer!
 
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