[WANTED] Tips for removing stuck motors (or preventing them).

I picked up my Partizon today to see what still needed to be done to finish it. As I was looking over it, I tried to remove the expended Estes G Pro Series II motor that I had inserted in the motor mount, and had a really hard time of it. Somehow, a portion of the sticker on the motor started to tear, and was bunching up making removal REALLY difficult.

To remove it, I had to peal off the remaining sticker, neutralize the adhesive (with talc powder), remove the remaining adhesive (Goo Gone), and use a lot of brute strength. Now, I have what feels like the beginnings of blisters on my palms (over an hour later). Fortunately, the rocket held up to the tug of war.

So, how do you remove one of these kinds of stuck motors?

How do you prevent them from sticking? I'm thinking that I should use talc/baby powder on the exterior of the motor (or interior of the motor tube) prior to installing the motor. Any other ideas?

Thanks!
Jim

step 1) write the motor designation on a piece of blue tape. step 2) peel the existing label off the motor and remove the adhesive. step 3) put your new label on the motor (remember to remove it before inserting the motor into the rocket), tis best to do this at home...it inhales greatly if you have to do this at the field(even more if you glue the motor into the rocket)
Rex

Remove the motor as soon as you recover, while it's still warm. Once that label adhesive heats up, oozes out, then cools, you get where you are.
-Ken

new2hpr said:

Remove the motor as soon as you recover, while it's still warm. Once that label adhesive heats up, oozes out, then cools, you get where you are.
-Ken

Click to expand...

My motor went in cold... it was used several months ago, and then mailed to me.

Jim,

new2hpr is talking about what happens inside the rocket, not before you insert the motor. Good advice to always take them out as soon as you recover. Also, a little silicon grease before insertion never did any harm.

So this is an unflown Partizon that has a spent casing sitting in it for several months ? Interesting. Was it hot where this thing was sitting ? Do you remember if it was difficult to insert ? I've used a broomstick or dowel inserted through the forward end of the airframe and down through the motor tube to ream an uncooperative motor out the back end.

BTW I always try to remember to remove the label from those Estes branded single use composite motors before using (like Rex R suggests) because they are always a PITA to remove after the flight.

<another edit> Is it possible there was some glue in the motor tube when the casing was inserted ?

samb said:

So this is an unflown Partizon that has a spent casing sitting in it for several months ? Interesting. Was it hot where this thing was sitting ? Do you remember if it was difficult to insert ? I've used a broomstick or dowel inserted through the forward end of the airframe and down through the motor tube to ream an uncooperative motor out the back end.

Click to expand...

Correct, unflown with a spent casing. The room never got hotter than the upper 80's from what I remember, and the rocket is white (so any instance of direct sunlight should have been negligible. No it wasn't difficult to insert. A broomstick would be kinda hard (in the future) to use as the baffle will be in the way.

I'm now thinking about making cutting off the LL (only the rear is attached at this time) and rigging this with a rail button. I could then make the forward rail button hold the coupler/baffle in place.

No uncured glue was present.

K'Tesh said:

Correct, unflown with a spent casing. The room never got hotter than the upper 80's from what I remember, and the rocket is white (so any instance of direct sunlight should have been negligible. No it wasn't difficult to insert. A broomstick would be kinda hard (in the future) to use as the baffle will be in the way.

I'm now thinking about making cutting off the LL (only the rear is attached at this time) and rigging this with a rail button. I could then make the forward rail button hold the coupler/baffle in place.

No uncured glue was present.

Click to expand...

Ok, thanks for the info. Yeah, adding a baffle would most definitely impede anything you'd try to use from the forward end . Well those Estes motors are definitly a problem after use if you leave the label on; I wrestled with a G40 in a PS II Nike Smoke this past Saturday. I left enough of the label adhesive on the case to gum up the motor tube a little. I think a combination of label removal and a lubricant before inserting is the way to go next time.