Asking for trouble? Removable couplers?

One of the things that I did with my PSII Based 29mm powered Cherokee D build was to put the rail button through the body tube, and into the coupler (between the baffle's plates). It seems to be pretty secure with the screw pining the assembly together (a single layer of masking tape is making for a small shim to help snug it in). So, that leads me to my questions.

Do I really need to epoxy the coupler in place?

If I don't, am I risking damaging the rocket somehow?

I'm thinking that if I don't, I could glue in the shock cord below the coupler (teabag method), fish it through the baffle, and be able to inspect/replace it as needed. If I do epoxy it in, I'm thinking about gluing the teabag inside the coupler.

Thanks!
Jim

Why not just ditch the baffle and use a nomex chute protector? It will likely also reduce the weight. I slide mine down the SC, and take it and wash it out every once in a while, as it does get gunked up. BTW, if I use rail buttons (which I do when possible), I used a t-nut on the inside of the BT to attach them. Not only can the buttons be removed for painting, but can be replaced due to wear or damage...

All of my rockets have remove able couplers- at least my scratch designed and built. I like modular- allows flexibility, and makes for easier repairs should the need arise.


Mark Koelsch
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RecoRocket said:

Why not just ditch the baffle and use a nomex chute protector? It will likely also reduce the weight. I slide mine down the SC, and take it and wash it out every once in a while, as it does get gunked up. BTW, if I use rail buttons (which I do when possible), I used a t-nut on the inside of the BT to attach them. Not only can the buttons be removed for painting, but can be replaced due to wear or damage...

Click to expand...

The baffle is integrated into the coupler. Besides preventing damage to the laundry from the ejection, it also prevents the shock cord and the parachute from sliding down the body tube and keeps my CG well forward.

My baffle/coupler has a t-nut glued inside of it. I first drilled a hole in some scrap 1/8" ply, then found where the points of the nut came in contact with the wood, and drilled holes for them as well. I then glued 1/8" balsa to the "top" side of the ply, and drilled out the hole for the nut to protrude through it. Next I sanded the balsa to match the inside curve of the coupler/body tube. Finally I drilled the hole in the coupler for the bolt, lined up the t-nut assembly, secured it in place with the rail button, and glued it in.

After the glue was set, I took the rail button off, and measured where the hole through the body tube should go, and drilled it.



In the photo above, you can see the baffle's bottom plate installed, and the t-nut assembly in place.

I've test fit the coupler, and it's in there solidly as is. I can remove it just by unscrewing the rail button.

The finished baffle will have two quarter moon shaped plates, with a 29mm gap between them orientated parallel to the bottom plate (which is 35mm wide). I'll shield them from the heat w/JB Weld.