Wildman V2 Sport (BUild Thread) (Directions Preview)

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Your OR files has a bit of nose weight. How much did you add on your rocket.

Willie, I made my V2 sport based on Griffins build thread and no nose weight was added. I added none to mine either. Flew it twice last week with no issues at all. I just made sure my thrust to weight was 5:1 or better.
 
Your OR files has a bit of nose weight. How much did you add on your rocket.

I have not flown it yet. I really doubt it will take much nose weight at all. Maybe an ounce just to be safe.
Once I'm packed and ready to fly, as long as the CG is front of the CP just a bit I'll light it. I don't think it will need a whole 1 cal.

In this Open rocket sim it takes about 6 1/2 oz to get over 1 cal stability with this motor. Of course that will change
with motor selection and hardware, laundry, tracker etc.
 
Back on topic.........here's mine. Flew it last weekend on an F42 & an F52. Both flights flawless. Per build instructions, no nose weight & a 12" chute.
ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1424961854.616076.jpg
 
Very nice paint. What does it weigh, a 12" seems pretty small?

Thanks! Weighs 17.5 oz (dry). Not a lot of room for a much bigger chute. Comes down fairly fast but fly on grass field and the rocket is pretty indestructable.
 
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Thanks! Weighs 17.5 oz (dry). Not a lot of room for a much bigger chute. Comes down fairly fast but fly on grass field and the rocket is pretty indestructable.

That's 42 ft/s...pretty darn fast.

I considered a similar recovery scheme for my LDRS project. John Derimiggio provided some really great insight on why you shouldn't do that. Not for fear of damage to the rocket, but people/property.

Over on a great forum: https://forum.urrg.org/index.php?topic=92.msg839#msg839
 
Last week at the BONG. G 80 skid & 3 oz nose weight flew like a dream. Surprisingly high too, no altimeter
so I could only guess. Lucky I had a tracker in it, walk was about 3/4 mile I guess. Great little rocket.

V2 Tim.jpg
Back on topic.........here's mine. Flew it last weekend on an F42 & an F52. Both flights flawless. Per build instructions, no nose weight & a 12" chute.
View attachment 255957
 
Flew mine on a G54 (3-grain)... I'll try that 3oz nose weight, cause it needs it

I'm not one to mess much with things as long as they work out well. I could probably
take out some nose weight as others have flown these with none & done fine. I don't
think lofting another 2 or 3 OZ is an issue with an F or certainly not a 'G' motor. My preflight
stability cal is about 1" CG in front of CP
 
I'm not one to mess much with things as long as they work out well. I could probably
take out some nose weight as others have flown these with none & done fine. I don't
think lofting another 2 or 3 OZ is an issue with an F or certainly not a 'G' motor. My preflight
stability cal is about 1" CG in front of CP

Where did you calculate the CP? Did you use Rocksim orOR?
 
I'm not one to mess much with things as long as they work out well. I could probably
take out some nose weight as others have flown these with none & done fine. I don't
think lofting another 2 or 3 OZ is an issue with an F or certainly not a 'G' motor. My preflight
stability cal is about 1" CG in front of CP

It definitely needed some weight, squirrelly all the way up. 2 or 3 oz sounds reasonable. OR doesn't calculate the boat tail, so I'm personally flying old school trial and error with this one.

1428854018383.jpg
 
It definitely needed some weight, squirrelly all the way up. 2 or 3 oz sounds reasonable. OR doesn't calculate the boat tail, so I'm personally flying old school trial and error with this one.

Flew mine again yesterday on an F52-8. No nose weight needed!
 
When I launched on an F, everything was good. On a G54, a 3 grain CTI motor which is heavier, it corkscrewed all the way up to altitude. I guess anyone launching on mildman motors is okay with no weight. For us Wildmen, though, be advised weight in the nose will be helpful. ;)
 
I have to finish my build- got derailed. The sim I am building, and which is really accurate, has me leaning towards 4 ounces in the nose. This was with Rocksim 9 using Rocksim method as Barrowman breaks down with fins on a boat tail. I will try to finish this weekend and post the finished file in my build thread.

Sorry, not trying to hijack this thread.
 
The sim I am building, and which is really accurate, has me leaning towards 4 ounces in the nose. This was with Rocksim 9 using Rocksim method as Barrowman breaks down with fins on a boat tail. I will try to finish this weekend and post the finished file in my build thread.

Mark, where is this build thread? I searched posts from you, but didn't find it. I'm interested in your Rocksim file for this rocket.
 
That's 42 ft/s...pretty darn fast.

I considered a similar recovery scheme for my LDRS project. John Derimiggio provided some really great insight on why you shouldn't do that. Not for fear of damage to the rocket, but people/property.

Over on a great forum: https://forum.urrg.org/index.php?topic=92.msg839#msg839

I think maybe a 24 or 30" would probably work the best. I know the rocket is pretty indestructible but why chance it ya know? Just my :2:
 
That's right, Tim the Wildman has done it again. Another Kick A$$ kit!!

This is the new Sport V2.View attachment 186632

Features:

Lightweight, thin-wall tubing
29mm motor mount
New poly-magic-fast-and-light nosecone
custom (no tools needed) snap ring motor retainer (built in and doubles as the rear centering ring)
Guaranteed to give your neighbor V2 envy
Builds quick and strong (built this one in one weekend)
Flies on F to I motors
Could be the winner of the MWP drag race

I know the thread is complete but reading from the beginning. Does the snap ring motor retainer come with the kit?
 
One minor complication I found post-build. I followed both threads here, and used a CTI 3G casing to set the spacing of the retainer on the MMT.

Then I discovered that the Estes/AT SU composite motors have a 'taller' thrust ring than the CTI.

It's no great trouble to take a dremel and grind a touch off the aft edge of the thrust ring - but it's annoying to have to remember to do so ahead of time. (Go on, I dare you to tell me that's a meaningful motor modification.)

Next time, I'll sort through my motor collection and set the retainer position for the biggest thrust ring - and use tape/wire/oring to fill the gap with anything else.
 
I would just friction fit the motor at that point. Especially if it's a single use motor. Either way, I understand your complaint and I ran into the same situation with an Aerotech single use F motor. I just friction fitted it in.
 
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