Blast deflector recommendations

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Make sure your "tin can" is actually a "steel can".

And if your rocket hangs up on the rod or the motor is too close to the steel can deflector, it will burn through the steel in a fraction of a second since the exhaust is like a cutting torch.

This is why the Estes deflectors are so thick.


The next time you open a tin can, save the top. Drill a 3/16 or 1/4 inch hole off-center. Take a motor casing and sand the ejection end at an angle. File, sand or grind the sharp edge off of the tin can lid. Drop the motor casing on the rod angle side up. Drop the tin can lid on the rod. Cost: ~15 minutes. Mine have lasted for over two years.
 
Another inexpensive method is cutoff wheels from Harbor Freight. We use these on our low power pads. They can be cleaned with a wire brush if needed and not as fragile as tile.

Steve G

Just bought one locally to try out. Seems like a winner so far!
 
This is a nice Idea Also! Are you installing the Pan with the side flanges Up to re-direct the exhaust up and away for the Ground? if so an Excellent Idea!


The hole is on one side of the Pan, to let it hang at an angle. You can see how it deflects the exhaust by looking at my avatar Pic'.
I don't fly in dry Grass or on flammable surfaces, but if I did, it might be a good Idea to use leg extensions or a lift kit for my pad, along with a ground cover cloth and a nearby fire extinguisher or 1 gallon pump up style sprayer full of water. I have both if I ever need them.
 
I'd have to break a lot of ceramic tiles before the stainless steel deflector would be cost effective. I'm paying under a buck for them, and not paying shipping, so it would be more than 5. Nah, I like my non-conductive ceramic tile deflectors.
 
I'd have to break a lot of ceramic tiles before the stainless steel deflector would be cost effective. I'm paying under a buck for them, and not paying shipping, so it would be more than 5. Nah, I like my non-conductive ceramic tile deflectors.

I agree. It's what we use for our club LPR. We also glue them to a piece of 3/8" ply. Most last a season or two of club use.
 
They don't give any specs, as to; Diameter, center hole size (or side mounting) or even if they are round.
Be nice if they had a bit more discription with it. And what size rail their buttons fit.
From the NARTS web page.....

BLAST DEFLECTOR
Replaces that worn-out Deflector Plate with NARTS Heavy Duty Blast Deflector 5" Diameter 12GA Steel. I assume it works with 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" rods which are the 3 rod diameters used for model rockets.

SMALL RAIL BUTTONS
NARTS SMALL RAIL BUTTONS .381 Diameter .410 Height White Delrin with 8-32 X 1/2 Stainless Steel Screw. One Set Equals 2/Buttons and 2 Screws. This should be good for 1010 rail.

LARGE RAIL BUTTONS
NARTS LARGE RAIL BUTTONS .630 Diameter .680 Height Brown Delrin with 1/4-20 X 3/4 Stainless Steel Screw. One Set Equals 2/Buttons and 2 Screws. This should be good for 1515 rail.
 
I agree. It's what we use for our club LPR. We also glue them to a piece of 3/8" ply. Most last a season or two of club use.
I just run four strips of duct tape on the back of each (two one way and two the other) so they don't rattle in the range box. Drill a hole in the center and I'm good. I've been using the same 5 deflectors since 2007 or so.
 
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